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FrozenGate by Avery

40mW Sanyo 635nm LDs on Ebay

I believe that's what midias is trying to plot.. "mW per mA"; it's just talking about efficiency. "Differential" just being the delta of change in efficiency relating to how much current is applied.

If anyone wants to trade their diode to me for a 200mW 650 instead of making their 40mW 638 into a 60mW 650, please let me know.
 





Sure, but I don't see a reason for it.
The power rating is already known and plotting above that rating is... pointless.
IMO.

The reason is because I can and I want to. In the end it will onlt see max power for about 30 seconds total then it will mostlikely become another LM337 pen just not sure if I will go full on 40mw or a little lower to get true 635nm
 
20mW "DJNY" diode @~85mA VS 40mW "sayno(sic:D)" diode @125mA.
Interesting. The camera screws up the color in the middle of because of the higher
intensity, in reality it is just the same color all around (obviously, this is a LD after all).
I didn't think these would have such a different raw output, elliptical vs perfectly round.
gedc0636.jpg
 
Ok ive got my diode in a module clipped in my helping hands, a odic force red boost driver set at 101mA and my plan is to solder the diode neg pin to the neg on the driver and the case pin to the positive on the driver. Is there any reason I should not do this?! I dont want to lose my only diode and I keep reading about having to use a special negative side driver...

EDIT: I soldered it together and I can see the light!

Now I just want to make sure that if I solder the negative power source to the ground pin and then run a positive ground host everything should still work right?
 
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Ok ive got my diode in a module clipped in my helping hands, a odic force red boost driver set at 101mA and my plan is to solder the diode neg pin to the neg on the driver and the case pin to the positive on the driver. Is there any reason I should not do this?! I dont want to lose my only diode and I keep reading about having to use a special negative side driver...

EDIT: I soldered it together and I can see the light!

Now I just want to make sure that if I solder the negative power source to the ground pin and then run a positive ground host everything should still work right?

You willl have to draw a picture and I would have to look at the driver. But I am guessing if you procede it will be bad
 
if I solder the negative power source to the ground pin and then run a positive ground host everything should still work right?
Sounds like a short to me!:eek:
 
I soldered the positive contact to the positive diode ground pin

217350_10150151307427338_629242337_6623092_5360522_n.jpg


Then I will replace the negative terminal wire with a spring contact for contacting the battery negative in a case positive host.

The driver positive input feeds off of the grounded pin in a positive ground host. So the battery will face + towards the rear clicky.

Sounds like a short to me!:eek:

I meant to say the positive terminal to the ground pin. This is how I always do my case negative builds except with the negative terminal

this time im just doing everything opposite
 
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Well this seams to work...

205643_10150151324307338_629242337_6623185_5270438_n.jpg


Anyone see any problems with this? Seeing as its using a 14500 Li-ion if it weren't regulating the current correctly it surely should have fried. If this works my postive ground host should be no problem.
 
Anyone see any problems with this? Seeing as its using a 14500 Li-ion if it weren't regulating the current correctly it surely should have fried. If this works my postive ground host should be no problem.

You could have tried it on your test load first to make sure it worked.:p You would just hook it up the same way bypassing the driver with the battery positive straight to the test load.:beer:

But I would agree if it did not kill your diode the driver must be regulating via the negative side.:D
 
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You could have tried it on your test load first to make sure it worked.:p You would just hook it up the same way bypassing the driver with the battery positive straight to the test load.:beer:

But I would agree if it did not kill your diode the driver must be regulating via the negative side. Got a link to the driver?

I knew it should work I just didnt know if the diode being positive ground would be an issue.

I dont want to derail this thread anymore so Ill make a new one for this build. Thanks all!
 
Sorry for the necro post, but I'm finally ready to get this thing into a host! Please check my lame diagram below to make sure I've got the pinout right for this diode.

attachment.php


I'm going to use a flexdrive @120mA in an Ehgemus host. Now, my question is can I make this diode case negative by soldering pins 2 & 3 together? Also forgive my paranoia but 120mA should be enough to keep this thing in the 638nm range right??
 

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Sorry for the necro post, but I'm finally ready to get this thing into a host! Please check my lame diagram below to make sure I've got the pinout right for this diode.

attachment.php


I'm going to use a flexdrive @120mA in an Ehgemus host. Now, my question is can I make this diode case negative by soldering pins 2 & 3 together? Also forgive my paranoia but 120mA should be enough to keep this thing in the 638nm range right??


Not sure that's gonna work. Personally I would get a cheap green module get it to 100 ma max and use that driver and make it case psoitive
 
Not sure that's gonna work. Personally I would get a cheap green module get it to 100 ma max and use that driver and make it case psoitive

Bleh, this diode is starting to become a pain in the ass. I don't want to go through the trouble of getting a green module, I'd rather use a boost.

Why do you think this will not work though?
 
a boost won't work, these diodes run at less than 3 volts.
Also you got the pin diagram wrong.
Case pin is positive, and the next pin counterclockwise is negative.

Basically what he said.

1. You need a buck.
2. One of the pins you have connected does nothing.
3. If you try to solder 2 and 3 together and make it case neg you will prob blow the diode.
4. No matter what you do this will be a case positive diode.

Personally I would get a nice green laser like a super beast and an aixiz module and use those together like I did for my super red laser.
 





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