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FrozenGate by Avery

2xAA blue ray driver (fits in aixis)

btw the laser diode still works
(phew)!
as a fuse I used a small smd ceramic ampoule I had scavenged from an old cell phone. It is rated for 3.5amps (1..1.5A would have been perfectly adequate), however it stands no chance against 2100mAh NiMH's if polarity is inversed.
 





no, it's just a small ceramic cylindrical fuse. i made ampoule up ::) google smd fuses.
dvd burner boards should have smth like 1206 footprint fuses in line with +12 and +5 power supply buses. Usually they look like smd resistors.
 
hey would it be possable to make one or two of these for me? if not it is ok i was just wondering and what would be an estimate on the cost of one of these guys

thanks
Mitch
 
uhh. do you guys want them for bluerays or hd-dvd lasers? (hd-dvd's don't have the (-) pin connected to the case)
and if you want them for bluerays, do you plan on grounding the body of the laser?

I have uni exams coming up, so i won't have time to make any for like a month
also i don't have any parts on hand, and i haven't yet made the type with a grounded case, do it hasn't been tested at all...
and pricing would probably be around $15 each. less for larger quantities.

I could organize printed circuit boards to be produced if i have enough interest
 
ok then, you don't need to bother with the opamp or anything. just look at the first page for circuit layouts. if you want you can make one yourself...
otherwise you will have to wait a bit.
how many do you want anyway?
 
I blew one of these powering it w/o load. The NMOS switching transistor channel became a dead short thereby shorting power from batteries as well. Thats why I placed a tiny fuse in series with one of the power supply wires and a diode (1n5819) in reverse across + and gnd. should polarity inversion occur, the anti-fool protection becomes forward biased and blows the fuse.
BTW, i see that you have placed a small smd cap on the LD terminals.
Also known as a crowbar circuit. ;)
 
jamilm9 said:
one for the PHR-803T
You need to specify a current. 90mA is below the knee, and should be safe.

You can get 89.5mA by using a 4 Ohm and a 4.7 Ohm resistor in parallel (2.16 Ohms). It yields 80mW before any optics or just under 70mW (67-69) after a non AR coated acrylic lens.

650nm AR coated lenses can halve the output!
 
Hey can I get in on this as well? Maybe three or so? I was trying to design my own boost + current control system using a mosfet/BJT current regulator and a TI step-up chip, but they'd be much bigger than these. I can buy some of the parts myself if need be. Also, with these HD-DVD diodes, can these diodes get burned out from static on the casing even if the pins are isolated from it? Is it best to ground the case with the negative pin?
 
if those hd-dvd ones are anywhere near 6x LDs in chip design, it should be possible to ground the case to avoid static buildup. In its original application the 6x bluray diode is connected to the chassis. I grounded its case and it works ok
 
I'll try that next time... I had such a nice purple glow and then nothing... it was well heatsinked, the circuit was regulated, and everything.I go and try to move the heatsink a little bit or something and then it stops working.

I'm also hoping the circuit from this thread or another might help give me more permanent solutions to making these lasers work, rather than my hacked solutions which seem to leave a lot of dead diodes in their wake.
 
First off woop, I think your driver's pretty cool, I'd like to build one of those, but just another project to put on the endless list, lol.

Bionic-Badger said:
.... my hacked solutions which seem to leave a lot of dead diodes in their wake.

Yeah... I think a lot of us have that problem :-[ The sacrifices we make in the name of science! ;D
 
Hey woop, would you care to post a scheme of the driver in the very 1st pic (with the pot)

btw, could you use it to drive a red diode?

THAX
 


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