Hyperion Laser Power Meter For Sale: 2W, 6W, & 20W Version

[Benm]

Just mount some stand-offs under the board, it has mounting holes them

It would not be difficult to put the Hyperion board in an enclosure either, though you'd have to make a cut-out for the LCD and figure out something for the buttons.

I guess that if you really wanted to mount it in a custom case you could ask for the board with the LCD not mounted to it, and insert a ribbon cable instead so you can put the display anywhere you like. Same goes for the buttons really, you could just use panel mounted buttons and wire them in parallel with those on the pcb.

 

[lasersbee]

Just mount some stand-offs under the board, it has mounting holes them

It would not be difficult to put the Hyperion board in an enclosure either, though you'd have to make a cut-out for the LCD and figure out something for the buttons.

I guess that if you really wanted to mount it in a custom case you could ask for the board with the LCD not mounted to it, and insert a ribbon cable instead so you can put the display anywhere you like. Same goes for the buttons really, you could just use panel mounted buttons and wire them in parallel with those on the pcb.

Yeah... that's a possibility for those of us with
mechanical.electronic experience.
I ordered an LPM PCB without the LCD soldered
onto the PCB that unfortunately never showed
up after 2 months. I was sent another one shortly
after but Astralist was unable to send a new
unmounted LCD to LPM PCB.

I carefully unmounted the soldered to PCB LCD.
It was a long time consuming process since the
pad holes in the PCB were very small and unsoldering
without damaging the PCB was a tedious process.
The LCD and PCB now have inline 0.1" connectors
and I can change out the LCD for the color I like.

BTW I put the same Rubber feet under the PCB
that we use on the LaserBee II OEM PCB. Now it
doesn't slide around the work bench anymore and
is short protected. :yh:

Still need to test my Astralist LPM and write a review...


Jerry

 

[Richie89]

Don't forget to put some type of insulation under
the raw PCB to not have any metal objects short
out the PCB when under power.

Jerry

I was actually trying to figure out what I should use, cardboard may be a good idea.

 

[paul1598419]

Maybe I'm mistaken, but wasn't astralist staring to offer 3D printed cases for these? I seem to remember that, but can't find it now. That would be the best of all possible remedies to the naked PCB.

 

[BobMc]

Maybe I'm mistaken, but wasn't astralist staring to offer 3D printed cases for these? I seem to remember that, but can't find it now. That would be the best of all possible remedies to the naked PCB.

Yes, last time I talked to Astralist he said he was planning on sending the 3D printed cases free to the people that have bought them. ( hopefully I'm not stepping on any toes here )

Might have misunderstood him but I don't think so. :thinking:

 

[Astralist]

I've seen the systems by Astralist, and they don't look DIY at all.

The PCB and component mounting on them is of very good quality, basically as good as you get get with wave and reflow soldering for anything. The only thing looking hand soldered to me is the interconnect between main board and display, but if it is hand soldered they did a -really- good job on that too.

In fact, all Hyperion are hand soldered by me
The SMD components are soldered using hot air solder though

I'm currently unable to get it assembled in any PCB-assembly factory because of non reel-ed components.

Hey I got the LPM in today!
I've got to be honest, I've never had one before so I'm so scared to touch it the wrong way, I have never fried a diode from ESD and hoping to make sure I don't with this, of course I know never to touch the sensor at all costs.
Love it man! Thanks.

Glad you like it! :beer:
The worst case for ESD is that the ADC will latch up and unable to read anything, it is a protection mechanism.
To restore, just turn disconnect (turn off) the board for about 30 sec and turn it on again.
About the sensor, just make sure it doesn't get exposed to humidity. Although it can withstand >480W/cm² but with the help of humidity, the coating will just evaporate when hit by high power laser.


@BobMc @Paul:
Yes i did offered sending a casing for free, still i couldn't have time tinkering with my unassembled 3D printer :banghead:

 

[Benm]

I guess you're good at soldering, though for reflow it doesnt really make much of a visual differnce if done (properly) by hand or by machine - i guess the end result is exactly the same though it takes more time by hand.

As for the LCD color: i think the supplied one is quite nice. It's a bit of a yellow-green, but such that i can read it wearing anti-green/anti-blue goggles just fine. This is much better than a solid green or blue backlit lcd that you cannot read with protective eyewear.

Standoffs are a good idea when just using the bare circuit board, either rubber ones or metal. Not that there is much protruding from the back of the board, but the power connectons and sensor input connections are - even just putting in m3 machine screws and nuts protect those just fine.

 

[Astralist]

As for the LCD color: i think the supplied one is quite nice. It's a bit of a yellow-green, but such that i can read it wearing anti-green/anti-blue goggles just fine. This is much better than a solid green or blue backlit lcd that you cannot read with protective eyewear.

It sure is, i supplied those high contrast lcd to make sure that it's readable even when using goggle.
the thing is that those lcd are >5x the price of usual lcd.


BTW, Hyperion LPM are on stock.

and check this out my latest project:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/astral-driver-boost-buck-sepic-100745.html

 

[Benm]

I figured some consideraton went into the choice of background lighting for it, since it's both readible wearing anti-red or anti-green/blue goggles.

Ultimately i reckon it would also work with a white lcd though, perhaps as an option to save a couple of dollars on the materials.

One thing i could sugget is mounting the LCD in a SIL socket rather than soldering in on directly. Those sockets are not expensive at all, and would allow people put a ribbon cable between LCD and main board if that suited case mounting better. Some breakout pins for the buttons could also be added, there seems to be room for them on the pcb. You could just add the pads for them and leave them unpopulated, leaving room for people to neatly solder in extended button connections at virtually no added cost.

None of these are really important though, but perhaps something to consider if you ever do a 'version 2' of the board.

 

[Richie89]

In fact, all Hyperion are hand soldered by me
The SMD components are soldered using hot air solder though

I'm currently unable to get it assembled in any PCB-assembly factory because of non reel-ed components.



Glad you like it! :beer:
The worst case for ESD is that the ADC will latch up and unable to read anything, it is a protection mechanism.
To restore, just turn disconnect (turn off) the board for about 30 sec and turn it on again.
About the sensor, just make sure it doesn't get exposed to humidity. Although it can withstand >480W/cm² but with the help of humidity, the coating will just evaporate when hit by high power laser.


@BobMc @Paul:
Yes i did offered sending a casing for free, still i couldn't have time tinkering with my unassembled 3D printer :banghead:

Oh that's great, definitely good to know,
I may go to the store tomorrow to find a little water tight case for the sensor. i currently have the board in its ESD bag. Funny how I have already metered all my lasers and really wanna hurry and get another laser just to use the LPM
My friends know all about laser thanks to me, but they have never heard of or seen a LPM. They think it's the coolest thing ever.

 

[Astralist]

Thread updated!

Added new version of Vritonuzz with:

• Reworked graph engine
• New graph color
• Performance improvement when plotting more than 1 hours of data

>Download Vritonuzz v.1.2.0.160<

I did not realize that the buyer of Hyperion LPM is not only a laser hobbyist but also DIY and commercial laser seller
so i decided to add white version of graph (not an inverted color) but of course it can also be inverted and it's printer friendly!

Just double click at any area of the graph to toggle the color

There are total of four graph color for now:

Black:

Black (Inverted):

White:

White (Inverted):

 

[dden4012]

Your graph has input for mA. What was the intention? How can I use this feature?

 

[paul1598419]

I'm pretty sure you need to enter that for each reading. Then it may be able to printout a graph. Not sure about the graph, though.

 

[dden4012]

If it is constant then it could be added to the header at the top and the name of the output files. I'll go out on a limb and say the feature was meant to log along with the mW in real-time for the Excel file and plotting. Or maybe it's a coming soon feature placeholder. op:

 

[paul1598419]

That was my guess, but I'm not sure this is setup to excel. If you are plotting a diode's power as a function of current you need to add the current each time as you increase it.

 

[Astralist]

If it is constant then it could be added to the header at the top and the name of the output files. I'll go out on a limb and say the feature was meant to log along with the mW in real-time for the Excel file and plotting. Or maybe it's a coming soon feature placeholder. op:

You are correct, that mA display meant to be used with Hyperion Aurum which development is currently suspended because of unstable supply of Ophir head.
It's a whole different board than Hyperion Argentum and Cuprum

I coded the software so that it can be used with HyAu, HyAg, and HyCu, because it's pretty hard to fork/branch the development of the software
Also, if i were coded one software just to be used for one kind of board only, then that means there will be three different software
and if bugs found in one of the software, then i need to debug all three software :can: