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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

My Nubm44 build






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Yea over 8W is way more than I would expect so it is probably right that more current was getting to the diode than it should. I set these to 4.5A unless asked for a different current. I would agree the best guess based on what you described without seeing is some type of issue with the driver. I can get you swapped out but please shoot it over before taking it apart so I can better troubleshoot it if you have not already.:beer:

Thanks Jordan.

Its been shipped back to you without touching it. You should have it in about a week. The driver end smells strongly from a burnt electrical smell. No doubt the driver blew up.
 
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Ricker

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My highest on a 44, maybe they are getting stronger...?
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CurtisOliver

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It is too early to say that they are all getting stronger. If your LPM is calibrated then certainly yours is a higher than normal diode. ATM, I would say that you have a more efficient diode. But with testing, we may find that the diodes are more efficient now than they was. What current was yours set at? 8W from a single diode. :eek:
 
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GSS

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Why the sudden drop at at 27 seconds... Have to ask did you shut it down because you ran it too hard?
 
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Hi ,
The 444's are powerful i just built one for sale on my thread its awesome love that diode despite the divergence not bad at all with a 3 Element though.

Rich:)
 

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Hi ,
The 444's are powerful i just built one for sale on my thread its awesome love that diode despite the divergence not bad at all with a 3 Element though.

Rich:)

Just curious, your LPM shows 7.5W, is that using 3 element?
It's definitely a monster if 7.5W measured using 3E lens :eg:
 
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Hi,
No its a G2 but with a 3 element it should still be on the high end , i will give the 3 E a shot and post some more pics

Rich:)
 

Ricker

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Why the sudden drop at at 27 seconds... Have to ask did you shut it down because you ran it too hard?

Haha actually, my girlfriend came home from work, i told her to stay away from the office without safety glasses, and in doing so I shook it off a little bit. No it was still cool and running fine, I just assumed it's only going to drop due to heat, and I was after a max mW for a customer. :)
 
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Hi ,
The 444's are powerful i just built one for sale on my thread its awesome love that diode despite the divergence not bad at all with a 3 Element though.

Rich:)


The power in your hands :beer:
Awensome Beam ! the monster is among us :eg:
 
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After trying a few Ebay Drivers that I was not happy with I have decided to use a Blackbuck 8 to get this thing going again.

Some of the Ebay ones are very poor indeed. One rated at 5 amps would have melted if run at 5 amps for more than a few seconds. And it was unstable as hell at 5 amps. The output was drifting about 0.5 amp. It was able to run well at 3 Amps after I installed heatsinks on the switching transisitors. Doubt I will be using this one.

Another I ssumed was a switching regulator turned out to be an Analogue Regulator. It would have needed a Huge heatsink to run off a 3 Cell LiPo.

I wanted the driver to have a continuous rating so I have done some good heatsinking to it. I still have doubts this driver can actulay run at 8 Amps for very long. Even at 4.5 Amps the Driver chip and Inductor got quite hot. That was with a full copper heatsink on the bottom of the board. I ended up thermally bonding some copper straps from the Regulator IC and the Inductor back to the main heatsink. The heatsink is the heat Spreader from an old Pentium CPU I pulled appart.

Running for only a few minets the copper heatsink gets quite warm. At 4.5 Amps this driver does generate a lot of heat. I will thermally bond the copper heatsink to the Aluminium heatsink in the host which should then run nice.

I have added the 10k pot so I can adjust the diode current from 0 - 4.5 Amps. The Current regulation is VERY good on this driver. From cold its reading 4.50 Amps. After a couple of minets running it had drifted up to 4.53 Amps.

Some Pics of the driver before I assemble it into the host.
 

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Interesting ... so do these photos always refer to your Nubm44 from 7.2W?
Or did you combine 2x7.2W with mirrors?​
 
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Interesting ... so do these photos always refer to your Nubm44 from 7.2W?
Or did you combine 2x7.2W with mirrors?​

This build is a single Nubm44 which metered 8.4 Watts. But the driver blew up in it after only a few minets runtime. DTR replaced the Module with a new Nubm44 but without a driver this time.

When I put it together I will Meter this diode and see if it compares to the last. Maybe it metered 8.4 Watts and blew up the driver because the current was set to high when i received it.

I have also ordered the x6 Correction optics to fix the beam up somewhat.
 
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This build is a single Nubm44 which metered 8.4 Watts. But the driver blew up in it after only a few minets runtime. DTR replaced the Module with a new Nubm44 but without a driver this time.

When I put it together I will Meter this diode and see if it compares to the last. Maybe it metered 8.4 Watts and blew up the driver because the current was set to high when i received it.

I have also ordered the x6 Correction optics to fix the beam up somewhat.


Hope then, we hope that when it comes to you everything can solve the problem and test whether it always stands at 8.4 or drops!​
 

BobMc

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Thanks for the update Mosc. Best wishes with your (continued) build. Like your heat sinking job. Well done. :)
 
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Thanks for the update Mosc. Best wishes with your (continued) build. Like your heat sinking job. Well done. :)


As you can tell by the Host I don't like things that run hot.

The Blackbuck 8 should run nice and cool when the copper block is thermally bonded to the main host.


Keeping the Diode cooler can increse the output by as much as 25% according to the graphs I have seen.
 





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