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FrozenGate by Avery

My Nubm44 build

My super high tech laser cooling station.

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55979d1494713614-my-nubm44-build-sany0771.jpg
 

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ElectricPlasma said:
Nice, actually really like the project-box build type. Have you measure a duty cycle on it (if there even is one)?

+rep
Click to expand...


The Lab style approach on most of my builds is also motivated by legal issues. It could hardly be called a laser pointer.

When i get time i can test the duty cycle. What is the expected life of this diode :)
 
Mosc007 said:
The Lab style approach on most of my builds is also motivated by legal issues. It could hardly be called a laser pointer.

)
Click to expand...

Ahh, probably a smart move, seeing where you live. Be safe :)
 
It seems everyone keeps getting a high binned NUBM44 which peaks >7.5W
I had mine which only outputting 5.5W at best @ 4.5A-5A
Looks like the recent products is indeed improved (in terms of LD-die's making process)

BTW congrats on setting a new record (CMIIW)!!
As you said you want to make it non-stop operation, we may also be interested in the power graph to know the stability of the build, maybe you should datalog the power for about 10 minutes.
The commercial laser outside there is characterized by running it one hour though (CMIIW)
 
I downloaded the Virtonuzz software. Installed it. Seemed to install fine. No errors.

BUT, it doesn't work. I double click the icon to run it. Hour glass and HDD activity for a while. But nothing happens. No Errors or anything. Simply nothing happens.

It's not AVG. It already checked it and passed it.
 
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Do you run your Vritonuzz in windows 10?
it seems i need to create one more version which is more lightweight

It can be run in all my windows platform though (XP, Vista, 7, 8, 8.1, & Win 10)

I'll be back with compatibility improvement.
 
HYPERION Laser Power Meter For Sale: Measures up to 20 Watt For Only $150 ?

looks like I know what my next pursue will be !
 
These diodes are more efficient when cold and dribble down power as they warm up, it gets worse with diode age, that is hours of use until finally you have a diode that starts out with reduced efficiency and fades fast which adds to heat build up, active cooling I think is a great idea, 2nd best is a heavy heat sink with good surface area, but at the overdriven power levels we run them our heat sinks are really just heat reservoirs that fill up, active cooling is the right way to get 100% duty cycle. :gj:

p.s. With a TEC pad applied to the diodes heat sink you could keep a higher output as long as the fan and fins can dissipate the heat into the air, and you do seem to have a freak diode there so it would be a good one to test pre chilled as well. Not frozen, just pre cooled to 50F and see what the numbers look like, I bet it will be a little bit higher, do you know what your driver is set at? probably 4.0 - 4.5a I have had some good diodes that will take 5A but they last longer at 4.5 because these diodes are designed so that the projector can turn up the current as they wear over their 20k hour lifespan, all diodes are rated in MTTF mean time to failure but they are actually rated in average time to half brightness in many cases, this is one reason we have so much over ability with a fresh diode, of course running past the factory max lowers the lifespan, but active cooling is a good way to slow the ageing, when we have 700 dollar 40w diodes we may want to use TEC and fans over fins to control temperature.
 
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RedCowboy said:
These diodes are more efficient when cold and dribble down power as they warm up, it gets worse with diode age, that is hours of use until finally you have a diode that starts out with reduced efficiency and fades fast which adds to heat build up, active cooling I think is a great idea, 2nd best is a heavy heat sink with good surface area, but at the overdriven power levels we run them our heat sinks are really just heat reservoirs that fill up, active cooling is the right way to get 100% duty cycle. :gj:
Click to expand...

I just watch an experiment on youtube with led and liquid nitrogen,
when they submerge a 450nm led to liquid nitrogen, the wavelength is shifted to longer value and looks like it's gone to 490nm

My question is, what if we keep this diode running below 25 Celcius, would it make the efficiency better AND wavelength shift happens, or will nothing happen?

Just curious, because AFAIK no one here running the diode in subzero temp.
 
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