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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Help sourcing XML emitter?

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I think Ill still give it a try as I like to have lower power modes too. I have also seen 6 x AMC drivers giving 2.1 A, so two of those might work better. Ill report back if it works!

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated! Sorry still cant rep either of you...:beer:
 
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Blord do you have any examples of drivers that on high are direct drive but for lower modes that are just regular.
 

Blord

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The HD2010 flashlight has a direct drive mode on top of three regular modes. I haven't experimented with the driver. The driver has been replaced with a 9x 7135 driver for 3.1A current.
I have still the original driver laying here somewhere.
 
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Being into flashlights as well as lasers, I'll have some kind of detailed write up sometime when I get home. Hang in there guys. :)
 
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yeah i'm really liking these flashlight's and they are quite a bit cheaper to build then lasers and i don't get as scared to sell them to friends and they sell a bit better then lasers. But don't get me wrong I still love my lasers!

also i'm not sure if you guys are big fans of the SolarForce L2P host but i just got one and can wait to build a couple. also found a good deal here for 16.02 shipped http://www.illuminationgear.com/304782.html of course after i bought one from lighthound.
 
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Nice find there! The copper MCPCB is the emitter base (sinkpad), in this case made of copper. Im ordering a couple from here: FS: COPPER mcpcb for XML/XPG High quality boards!!!!!!!!

You need to be able to reflow the LED to the board though...;)

BTW Any ideas whether I can combine 2 AMC drivers in parallel if they have different currents ie 1 A and 3 A or 2 A and 3 A?? Trying to work out how to run these...:eg::beer:

What drivers are you specifically looking at?

Generally I would recommend piggybacking the AMC's by stacking a chip on top of another, like this:

50enZb4.jpg


0pdayPh.jpg


Original post here: Advice on 7135 piggybacking, troubleshooting | BudgetLightForum.com

Blord do you have any examples of drivers that on high are direct drive but for lower modes that are just regular.

This is the driver for the HD2010: $3.07 3V~5V 5-Mode LED Flashlight Direct-Drive Driver Circuit (East-092) - 17mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

1127405-2.jpg


It's a really nice driver, perfect for direct driving with multi-kHz PWM that I'm not bothered by it.

Cheers!

Edit:

Grainde, if you're still looking to use the AMC drivers, the Attiny13A's are able to be reprogrammed that you can have custom modes including ramping. I've been playing around with some coding and it seems very useful!

Here's the thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/799

I do have the AVR programmer so if you would like something, let me know, and we could work something out.
 
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yeah i'm looking at getting a couple of those copper MCPCB but i've been tring to get my 3 posts in with no such luck and i'm getting pissed. i've emailed support over there to see what the heck is going on.
 
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Might take a few hours or even days to get your posts approved... yeah it really sucks.
 
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Hey excellent info Ryansoh!! :thanks: I think Im going to have to try both options. Im now looking at the direct drive options too, and these seem to be a couple of other options:

$1.81 17mm 2-Mode LED Driver Circuit Board for Flashlight DIY - 3V~4.2V DC / battery guard / direct drive / 17mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$4.63 1* Lithium 2-Group 3/5-Mode 2.6A LED Flashlight Driver (LD-25) - 3V~4.2V / low voltage warning / reverse polarity protection / 17mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Have you tried or heard of them?

I think Ill also order some AMC chips and give the stacking idea a go. It might be better than trying to link two boards and Ill have more room...;)

Id also be keen to try changing the programming on the Attiny, ramping and no strobe or SOS sound great! ;) Thanks for the offer, Ill give you a shout when Im so far...:beer:


Edit: @Awillis our post showed up...dont worry;)
 
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No problem.

The first driver you linked... I don't think it's direct drive. FT sometimes has erronous info on drivers and it's up to us customers to report errors. :)

A review of it is here: Direct drive 17mm driver from Fasttech | BudgetLightForum.com

It doesn't draw 5-6A, rather 3A, so you might be disappointed.

The second driver you linked isn't direct drive either, I believe.

Here's the voltage vs. current graph:

driversd.jpg


The only true direct drive driver is the East-092 that I posted above.

Cheers!
 
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Well finally! Hey I meant to ask you on your other build where did you get that copper washer that you used for heat sinking your driver?
 
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Well finally! Hey I meant to ask you on your other build where did you get that copper washer that you used for heat sinking your driver?

You mean this one?

7679-lpf-torch-3.jpg


It was just an old washer that was lying around...:D I know you can buy them from hardware stores or car shops. They are often used on oil sumps, although this one was just a simple one and not a split ring type. :beer:

@ Ryan. Thanks, I guess Ill get the one you recommended then! Annoying cos I really liked the simplicity of high and low and no crappy strobe or SOS..Just curious, but you really dont notice the PWM? :) :beer:
 
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Did you guys happen to see that link I posted for the solar force l2p for 16.09 shipped In the USA. Between a drive, empty p60, xm-l2 I'm going to had a few low budget high powered flashlights.
 
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@ Ryan. Thanks, I guess Ill get the one you recommended then! Annoying cos I really liked the simplicity of high and low and no crappy strobe or SOS..Just curious, but you really dont notice the PWM? :) :beer:

You could give the two drivers you liked a try, only a few bucks each, but yes, I've had nothing but good results with the East-092. I have at least 4 of them in my lights. :)

Nope, the PWM is very very high, so it's not noticeable at all. I'll measure again and let you know.

Edit: Yup, the medium is 4.12kHz and low is 9.17kHz. You usually notice PWM at 125Hz (badly designed Chinese driver), so no worries there.
 
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what would you think the light would draw current wise with the East-092 and a panasonic NCR18650B or another of those high current cells.
 
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what would you think the light would draw current wise with the East-092 and a panasonic NCR18650B or another of those high current cells.

At high (direct drive) I would estimate about 4-6A when fully charged. But this depends on the resistance of the switch, spring, and contacts as well. The highest I've been able to reach was 4.5A with my Trustfire cells.
 




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