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oclaro 700 638nm first build advise.

paul1598419

paul1598419

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You can easily push the Mits to 1300mA as I have done it a lot and all are still functioning. Just be sure you use a heat sink that will dissipate the heat. Don't scrimp on the host. I've seen people push these to 1400mA, but I haven't been that brave.
 





Dutch67

Dutch67

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Sooooooo... My Oclaro just died on me :( I don't think it was anything that I ddi wrong although there's always a good chance that it was my fault. I think It might just be an unstable diode in general. Oh well I had fun while I had it.


I was using a 1A driver from flaminpyro and mine lasted probably around 1 hours of total use so maybe I messed something up in the build somewhere?
 
Isaac Clarke

Isaac Clarke

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Lildutchboy7 said:
Sooooooo... My Oclaro just died on me :( I don't think it was anything that I ddi wrong although there's always a good chance that it was my fault. I think It might just be an unstable diode in general. Oh well I had fun while I had it.


I was using a 1A driver from flaminpyro and mine lasted probably around 1 hours of total use so maybe I messed something up in the build somewhere?
Click to expand...

Ouch!!! that was an expensive loss for a first build... it seem ;ike you fried the diode because of your ghetto build.:D ( do not listen to my statement because it's just my assumption).

and what was the duty cycle ?
 
SyKo

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Lildutchboy7 said:
Sooooooo... My Oclaro just died on me :( I don't think it was anything that I ddi wrong although there's always a good chance that it was my fault. I think It might just be an unstable diode in general. Oh well I had fun while I had it.


I was using a 1A driver from flaminpyro and mine lasted probably around 1 hours of total use so maybe I messed something up in the build somewhere?
Click to expand...

It happens, just add it to your diode graveyard, in one a siting i crushed the window of a PLT5-510(520nm 10mW) and HL63193MG(700mW 635) both diodes spat out a little bit of led light and some shards of glass for me to later stand on.
 
Richie89

Richie89

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paul1598419 said:
You can easily push the Mits to 1300mA as I have done it a lot and all are still functioning. Just be sure you use a heat sink that will dissipate the heat. Don't scrimp on the host. I've seen people push these to 1400mA, but I haven't been that brave.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I'm afraid of, I purchased the simple little aluminum HS, I wonder if it's good enough for the mitsu 500 at 1 amp or should I just go ahead and buy the copper for the C6. Should I use thermal compound between module and heat sink?
 
Richie89

Richie89

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Lildutchboy7 said:
Sooooooo... My Oclaro just died on me :( I don't think it was anything that I ddi wrong although there's always a good chance that it was my fault. I think It might just be an unstable diode in general. Oh well I had fun while I had it.


I was using a 1A driver from flaminpyro and mine lasted probably around 1 hours of total use so maybe I messed something up in the build somewhere?
Click to expand...

Oh wow really!? Sorry to hear that :( I guess I should stay away from the oclaro and get the mitsu.
 
paul1598419

paul1598419

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I'm a huge fan of copper heat sinks. I still have two that are empty and waiting for the right diode. As far as using thermal compound, if you mean thermal adhesive, then, no, don't use that at all between your module and the heat sink. I personally like a thermal compound I made myself using 50% silver heat sink compound and 50% synthetic diamonds at 0.1 microns to 0.01 microns. The reason is that diamonds have a thermal conductivity of 5 times that of elemental copper. Plain silicone is only slightly better than air and silvered isn't much better. But, I only use it in hosts that seem to have a poor, or sloppy hole for the module as it only helps to fill in the cracks that are microscopic between the heat sink and the module.

Edit: I'd also use a copper module instead of the cheaper nickel plated brass as they don't dissipate heat as well. I quit using the brass ones altogether and only use copper now, even though I still have about a half dozen of the brass ones left.
 
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VirtueViolater

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Hi Paul, +rep for the compound recipe when I can. Have you ordered on of the 35mm cu modules DTR sales yet? They're really nice
Danny
 
paul1598419

paul1598419

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No, I haven't built any lasers over 3 watts yet, so I haven't felt the need to get something like that. I may never go that route as I am quite happy with the copper modules I use and the heat transfer to the heat sinks that they provide.
 
Pman

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Yes the Mits 500 is a more forgiving diode as many of us have found out first hand.
Yes the C6 is a pain in the butt tight fit and although I have built a few I didn't enjoy it.
For the most part if you stay more around the 800MW output (G2) you can get a decent life out of either the 700 or 500. I do have one mits 500 that must be a freak as it will peak over 1.3W BUT I don't usE the build as I have others under 1W and I expect the 1.3W to blow if I turn it on. Looks pretty though in its big red host. I actually don't know how it ended up set so high to be honest unless something changed in the setting while I was putting it together.
Yes you will likely want to use a 3-element as the dot is really bad with either one. It's up to you whether you can stand the "dot" or not.
Yes the LPC-826 is a gigantic bargain but you do have to isolate the diode.
 
paul1598419

paul1598419

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Pman, why do you need to isolate the LPC-826? I haven't built anything with one of these, but the specs are the same as the 836 and the 840. The case is neutral and it has a case pin on the diode, but I never had to isolate my builds with the 836 or 840.

Edit: I found out that the case pin on all LPCs are the cathode today by taking a build apart and looking after not being able to get a data sheet on the LPC-836 or 840. It seems that my memory is not what it used to be and I had forgotten the actual pinout for these diodes. :eek:
 
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Richie89

Richie89

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paul1598419 said:
I'm a huge fan of copper heat sinks. I still have two that are empty and waiting for the right diode. As far as using thermal compound, if you mean thermal adhesive, then, no, don't use that at all between your module and the heat sink. I personally like a thermal compound I made myself using 50% silver heat sink compound and 50% synthetic diamonds at 0.1 microns to 0.01 microns. The reason is that diamonds have a thermal conductivity of 5 times that of elemental copper. Plain silicone is only slightly better than air and silvered isn't much better. But, I only use it in hosts that seem to have a poor, or sloppy hole for the module as it only helps to fill in the cracks that are microscopic between the heat sink and the module.

Edit: I'd also use a copper module instead of the cheaper nickel plated brass as they don't dissipate heat as well. I quit using the brass ones altogether and only use copper now, even though I still have about a half dozen of the brass ones left.
Click to expand...

Okay I'll definitely invest in some thermal compound, I wanna do this right. i don't wanna ghetto rig this thing, I appreciate all the help so much. I screenshoted your post so I can remember what all to get and check out :D
 
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