Not necessarily. I would try to drive it with one of my adjustable PS to find out, but that may not be an option for you. It is unlikely that if the diode was connected properly that it was damaged and I also doubt it would cause a new driver failure if it is not dead shorted. I would try to find out if the diode is good before trying to repress it, though.So is the diode junk? I suppose I can try to press it in more...
I don't know what would make the best heat remover but you can get heat sinks for your module off eBay very easily, I suppose you are using a common 12mm module if so plenty of heat sinks exist on eBay like this one: shorturl.at/bftx3 (had to shorten the eBay link cause it would take like 7 rows here)Or you could also choose an even better one from DTR: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrslasershop/home/22mm-510-threaded-modulesIt was on long enough to snap the pic and that was it. Just wanted to make sure it was still a good part. Speaking of overheating, from your experience what makes the best heat remover? A solid slab of copper or a radiator of sorts, with airflow over thinner plates?
Many of the blue diodes show a respectable increase in output when supercooled. But keep condensation off of your optics, or else.I have some cooling pads the need to run at 3V i purchased a huge box of diodes and it was on the back of some diodes and drivers i tested 1 it literally freezes the diode i never use it no idea if its good for the diode use cooper and aluminum ware did you get the setup locks nice i like it
The SXD specifically will not pass the reverse polarity from the power source so it will not damage the diode from this event. If it presses in more then yes I would so that the top of the base is in contact with the module and not just drawing heat from the edges of the base.So is the diode junk? I suppose I can try to press it in more...
Here's the very same diode, happy as a clam consuming about 1250 milliamps. Really want to see what one of these will do at 1.8 amps. Still waiting on a new driver from DTR or instructions on what to do next. Really want to thank you folks for welcoming me, being incredibly helpful, and even moreso, being patient with me. Not sure why I didn't join earlier, I've been reading and soaking up knowledge for years here. It really is an amazing place for someone that's into this hobby. Much appreciated! For the record, an m140 driven by 1.25 amps absolutely WILL destroy a digital camera. A quick hit to the lens will leave a bright white spot in the view finder, and anything more than a brief direct hit will most likely cause catastrophic failure. I had an old cell phone I decided to test with, I've heard folks asking, so decided why not. A dvd burner diode didnt phase the camera one bit, but the m140 brought it to a quick eternal life of darkness. Sorry for the randomness, just wanted to post that fun fact.
View attachment 66645
The hardest question to answer is when I get the generic what is the best question. It is really not that simple. Both drivers are great. The ACSBU's(ACS4500BU/ACS5500BU) units if running the hither power diodes and want to keep it simple to sink it in a compact space they would be a top choice for sure but they do blow from reverse from both sides. Aug put a diode on one by a fubar moment just two days ago backwards and he learned the hard way. Toasted the driver. I know the ACSBU's will also blow from a short on the output side when powered and the SXD is probably the same.Please use x-woosse driver
DTR sell thï¿½m,or you can buy on ebay
It have reverse protect