Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers



X-drive fried immediately

BillClinton1

New member
Joined
Aug 24, 2019
Messages
18
Points
3
So is the diode junk? I suppose I can try to press it in more...
 



paul1598419

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Messages
16,082
Points
113
So is the diode junk? I suppose I can try to press it in more...
Not necessarily. I would try to drive it with one of my adjustable PS to find out, but that may not be an option for you. It is unlikely that if the diode was connected properly that it was damaged and I also doubt it would cause a new driver failure if it is not dead shorted. I would try to find out if the diode is good before trying to repress it, though.
 

BillClinton1

New member
Joined
Aug 24, 2019
Messages
18
Points
3
Here's the very same diode, happy as a clam consuming about 1250 milliamps. Really want to see what one of these will do at 1.8 amps. Still waiting on a new driver from DTR or instructions on what to do next. Really want to thank you folks for welcoming me, being incredibly helpful, and even moreso, being patient with me. Not sure why I didn't join earlier, I've been reading and soaking up knowledge for years here. It really is an amazing place for som15723964788215559667795225311121.jpgeone that's into this hobby. Much appreciated! For the record, an m140 driven by 1.25 amps absolutely WILL destroy a digital camera. A quick hit to the lens will leave a bright white spot in the view finder, and anything more than a brief direct hit will most likely cause catastrophic failure. I had an old cell phone I decided to test with, I've heard folks asking, so decided why not. A dvd burner diode didnt phase the camera one bit, but the m140 brought it to a quick eternal life of darkness. Sorry for the randomness, just wanted to post that fun fact.
 

paul1598419

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Messages
16,082
Points
113
Yes, when using a diode in a module driven at 1.25 amps always have it in a heat sink. It will overheat very quickly unless you do.
 

BillClinton1

New member
Joined
Aug 24, 2019
Messages
18
Points
3
It was on long enough to snap the pic and that was it. Just wanted to make sure it was still a good part. Speaking of overheating, from your experience what makes the best heat remover? A solid slab of copper or a radiator of sorts, with airflow over thinner plates?
 

Lifetime17

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 15, 2014
Messages
5,480
Points
113
Hi, Yes heat sinking is very important as the rest of the folks declared .
Rich:)7D43E593-094A-464B-9E1D-01AF1205551A_1_201_a.jpegE0627536-0347-4F37-AC23-7723F14E4FD1_1_201_a.jpeg
 

Gianakakis

Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
66
Points
18
It was on long enough to snap the pic and that was it. Just wanted to make sure it was still a good part. Speaking of overheating, from your experience what makes the best heat remover? A solid slab of copper or a radiator of sorts, with airflow over thinner plates?
I don't know what would make the best heat remover but you can get heat sinks for your module off eBay very easily, I suppose you are using a common 12mm module if so plenty of heat sinks exist on eBay like this one: shorturl.at/bftx3 (had to shorten the eBay link cause it would take like 7 rows here)Or you could also choose an even better one from DTR: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrslasershop/home/22mm-510-threaded-modules
 

BillClinton1

New member
Joined
Aug 24, 2019
Messages
18
Points
3
I understand I can take a shot in the dark and buy one, but I was hoping to get a little insight on the most efficient, a finned radiator style or just a big block?
 

Lifetime17

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 15, 2014
Messages
5,480
Points
113
Hi
If your interested in the heat sink I posted PM me the fan runs on 9 volt batteries
Rich:)
 

paul1598419

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Messages
16,082
Points
113
The best materials we use for heat sinks are aluminum and copper. The thermal coefficient is better for copper than aluminum, but aluminum is cheaper. Surface area is important as the heat is dissipated to the air. Thus, fins give you more surface area, but that is not always an option, so a large mass will give you a longer run time.
 

Lifetime17

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 15, 2014
Messages
5,480
Points
113
Hi
The AL heat sink I posted if fine just to test your diodes the fan with keep it cool enough for testing the efficiency of the diode
Your run time in testing with a heat sink of this mass is more than enough
Rich:)
 

Alien Laser

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2015
Messages
1,249
Points
113
I have some cooling pads the need to run at 3V i purchased a huge box of diodes and it was on the back of some diodes and drivers i tested 1 it literally freezes the diode 🥶 i never use it no idea if its good for the diode use cooper and aluminum ware did you get the setup looks nice i like it :unsure:
 
Last edited:

WizardG

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
723
Points
63
I have some cooling pads the need to run at 3V i purchased a huge box of diodes and it was on the back of some diodes and drivers i tested 1 it literally freezes the diode 🥶 i never use it no idea if its good for the diode use cooper and aluminum ware did you get the setup locks nice i like it :unsure:
Many of the blue diodes show a respectable increase in output when supercooled. But keep condensation off of your optics, or else.
 

DTR

Well-known member
LPF Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,771
Points
113
So is the diode junk? I suppose I can try to press it in more...
The SXD specifically will not pass the reverse polarity from the power source so it will not damage the diode from this event. If it presses in more then yes I would so that the top of the base is in contact with the module and not just drawing heat from the edges of the base.


Here's the very same diode, happy as a clam consuming about 1250 milliamps. Really want to see what one of these will do at 1.8 amps. Still waiting on a new driver from DTR or instructions on what to do next. Really want to thank you folks for welcoming me, being incredibly helpful, and even moreso, being patient with me. Not sure why I didn't join earlier, I've been reading and soaking up knowledge for years here. It really is an amazing place for someone that's into this hobby. Much appreciated! For the record, an m140 driven by 1.25 amps absolutely WILL destroy a digital camera. A quick hit to the lens will leave a bright white spot in the view finder, and anything more than a brief direct hit will most likely cause catastrophic failure. I had an old cell phone I decided to test with, I've heard folks asking, so decided why not. A dvd burner diode didnt phase the camera one bit, but the m140 brought it to a quick eternal life of darkness. Sorry for the randomness, just wanted to post that fun fact.
View attachment 66645

Aug did shoot a driver out but in ebay if you replace the tracking so it notifies you then it takes that as the shipping date showing it as a late shipment and without ebay passing email address you wont get electronic. I thought he sent you a message with the link but will find it for you should be there very soon if you did not get it already.

I actually just noted the pic you sent on ebay and I would actually have made an adjustment based on the diode you have. I can't see if it has the dot but it does have the white paste meaning china M140 not Japan M141 which the last China M140 shipped in 2015 so a few thoughts. If the diode is a A-Type 1.8A is for sure tops if new(chances of that are probably same odds of being killed by a vending machine but possible). So probably there are an unknown amount of running hours on them already and running them at the commonly suggested currents for typical applications that don't need to get the extended 20K-30K hours to compete with LEDs in projectors already having hundreds to thousands of hours on them in a projector is kind of Russian roulette. I might stick with the 1.25A specially if an A-Type maybe lower.

Status: Out of Production
First Ship: Jul 2011
Last Ship: Apr 2015
s-l1600 (2).jpg


Please use x-woosse driver
DTR sell th�m,or you can buy on ebay
Seach acs5500bu
It have reverse protect
[/QUOTE"]
The hardest question to answer is when I get the generic what is the best question. It is really not that simple. Both drivers are great. The ACSBU's(ACS4500BU/ACS5500BU) units if running the hither power diodes and want to keep it simple to sink it in a compact space they would be a top choice for sure but they do blow from reverse from both sides. Aug put a diode on one by a fubar moment just two days ago backwards and he learned the hard way. Toasted the driver. I know the ACSBU's will also blow from a short on the output side when powered and the SXD is probably the same.

For this application if set to 1.8A and floating in the back of the module the SXD is my suggested choice between them. The thicker board and components provide a generous run time for most portable builds using two LI-ions as the power source. The ACSBU's will get to thermal shutdown quicker due to the way it is designed with a thin pcb that has a high heat transfer from the ic to the base and seen a few instances of when bounced constantly off the thermal protection some reflow causing anything from just stopping to shorting out random contacts. That can lead to smoking the driver and/or possibly taking out the diode. Also currently the SXD is the only one I am stocking with TTL but just got my first few ACSBU's to play with adding TTL so that is coming soon.

Just like when I see which lens is better without any details at all there really is no way to give a blanket statement of "better" but can say which has the best advantages for specific configurations. They both are very good drivers and I assume at any point the SXD will be gone.
 
Last edited:




Top