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FrozenGate by Avery

WTB nubm05t diode






Have you been running these 06 diodes at 5 amps or 4.5 ?

Some pics would be nice, also you said you have someone who is going to get a LPM reading on the 06. That sounds great. :beer:

If the 06 is even a little bit stronger than the 44 and has even slightly less divergence with that much better price then I will risk running it with the Gball removed and a little Teflon tape on the lens threads to keep it from drawing in humid air while cooling down after use.

I think removing the Gball, pressing the diode into a module and installing a Teflon taped lens body could be done in a simple nitrogen filled isolation box.

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This is the NUBM06 at 10' with just the Gball lens. I'm going to take a Gball lens that I cut the can down on and put into a threaded holder and see if that works better now that I have a module with a lot longer threading. I'm not really concerned about removing the lens. I haven't had any issues from that. Since the beam is very close to being focused to infinity just adjusting it a little should get it perfect.
I sent a diode to Flaming Pyro the guy who sells the ☓ drive hopefully he gets around to testing it. I will have my 20 LPM in less than week so I'll be able to know more about this diode.

I don't know what happened when I resized the picture but it's 3/4 of an inch at 10 feet
 

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Shoot me an invoice to my email please.

Unless that Gball is dirty on it's outer surface, and it could be with all that artifact/splash, then I think we should just take them off.

But the value makes it very attractive and if we Teflon tape a G2, set it and leave it alone, then it has a good chance, both my 44 and 07e that gave up kinda early were canless, but I changed lenses like underwear so that may well have added to my longevity problem.

p.s. What amp driver should I use? I have a couple used SXD's with the pot but I would rather order a V3 unless you have some drivers?
 
The splash isn't bad at all, I just didn't get a good picture. I don't plan on leaving the lens attached but the lens may still be usable. I try not to expose the diode unless I have to. I feel like it's bad even for enclosed diodes and I definitely don't run it with the lens off. I killed a NUBM44 like that now I'm paranoid about it happening again.
One thing I did notice is the beam from the Gball lens doesn't cross over its self. It's just a strait beam that gradually starts to spread out. I think that has something to do with the lens being so far from the emitters. I really want to get a power reading because the Gball definitely has a low amount of loss.
 
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I have been running them at 4.5 amps but I've gone up to 5.5 amps without any issues. I do have some SXD-V3 drivers but not really enough to sell. I just ordered 5 of the x-wossee 6amp drivers.
 
I think removing the Gball, pressing the diode into a module and installing a Teflon taped lens body could be done in a simple nitrogen filled isolation box.

nitrogen%20box_zpsx2vejz6p.png

Those are really expensive. Does anyone here even have one or can get one at a reasonable price?

Alan
 
The SXD drivers work well, but I for personal reasons only want to buy the fixed resistance drivers, I for personal reasons don't want the little pot as I want to rule something out by process of elimination.

I will go 4.5a on the 06 until we see some LPM and foldback results.

I agree, keeping the can/Gballs on sounds like a good idea, I really miss my beautiful 07E, it was fed only 3.4 amps and had a heavy heatsink, maybe I just got one that was destine for a short life, but keeping the Gball attached sounds good if nothing else to avoid contamination.

That's an interesting looking beam, it's wide but it looks like it runs wide, a round concave/convex homemade expander could be useful, I need to find some vis AR coated lenses.
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At 20' it is about 2" wide give or take. It doesn't cross over itself at any point either. It just gradually spreads out. I'll take a better pic when it's dark.
 
Yeah I have some. Only one with the Gball lens attached and I've run it for maybe 2 minutes. But I have other new ones without the lens. PM me if you want one.
 
Are the 07E's you get at that price with the Gball on or off?
 
Is the PIN OUT the same on the NUBM06 as the NUBM44 and NUBM07E?

SORRY ABOUT THE TEXT IN THE PIC, MINE IS A NUBM06 AND I BET IT'S THE SAME, JUST THOUGHT I WOULD ASK BEFORE TESTING ALTHOUGH I'M SURE MY METER WOULDN'T HURT IT.

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I just love the LPF community, I ordered driver from DTR and a diode from ABarnette on Friday and here they are in my mailbox Monday. I am within a 1000 miles of them both, so that helps but still, Thanks. :gj:

This diode is making some horsepower. :D

I regret that out of the thousands of dollars worth of electronic test equipment I own I still don't have a proper LPM, I get hard headed but now I need to know.

I only gently ran up to 4.1 amps and it was only taking 4.4 volts, I will go to 5.0 volts in a minute and I think I need to go with a 5.0 amp driver, the 4.5 I just got may not feed this hungry Gballer enough.

The beam spot is at 10 feet but the line is sharper than the burn, the line looks good actually and I will get more pics, these have some real potential and for the price WOW. I may have to Cyl pair one of these, I bet it would make a mean short-medium range leaf igniter.

I will mount it up and work with some bigger 1-2 inch wide low power lenses, I make a holder to slide on the 1.25 inch bar on the host.

The power is there, its a question of how best to use it, I would like to keep the Gball on.

I look forward to seeing LPM results because these are not weak. :D

I just use a 1/4 inch socket and a couple flat pieces of aluminum to press the diode in my vise, I don't use the press tool...I'm stubborn :p but because the Gball does not protrude the standard press tool may work?

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WOW this Gball monster has not dimmed back as I have seen others do when overdriven, at 5.5a it was still getting brighter and burning a hole in my wall and it was still not at 5 volts, this is a brand new 10 amp supply and I can put a 7875 on it and run it past 5 volts and see it start to fold back, this diode has not folded back or even hit 5 volts at 5.5 amps.

NOW I am kicking myself for not having a LPM, but I need one to read 8 watts by the looks of this diode, if it's not a freak these are tough.

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I am looking at the 5.5 amp beam and I don't hold the camera the same each time, I am pulled back further on the 5.5 amp pic, but the reflection on the power supply looks brighter, but the beam not as much, we really need a real LPM test, but shouldn't this diode take 5 volts worth?

I theoretically should be able to give it 5 volts and as much current as it will take at 5V Right? NO? Yes?
 
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