I was thinking this setup would be good for homemade CNC cutters as the tight spot is more square than rectangle albeit a tiny square and I tried to make a cutting video zipping through popsicle sticks and index cards at triple speed in a single pass, but even with me blowing on it they keep bursting into flames.
A geyser of smoke shoots out of the sticks like it was under pressure, it's an angry little concentration of energy.
A lens that makes a longer tight area would be good for thicker materials of several mm, but the power is there.
ABarnett I think the right answer is correction then reduction, now if we built 6 or 8 of those FIXED units and arranged them into a circle on articulated mounts and fire them into a cone, then use one of those big lens from the 24 diode machine, it could be moved forward and back to set an intersecting point at a desired distance. Each unit could be in a finned air cooled mount 1.5 x 6 inches to accommodate the correctives. REPLACE THE EXPANDER SECTION WITH TELESCOPIC REDUCTION
I I think that'd a definite possibility. I asked the woman fr I mean the diode supplier if she was able to get any of the projector parts for me but she said that her director wouldn't let her. I asked her to try to get that big lens even if it was slightly damaged and any other optics plus the phosphor wheel. But I don't think it's going to happen. It seems a shame to just throw it all away.
Yea they are O-rings, but you don't need them. Yes that's the block. The lens are only 10 dollars from SANWU
I tested one on a 7875 and it made a line about twice as long as a 3 element, but burns it in about as fast, these are good lenses. These are a shorter focal length than the G7 but they do a good job of grabbing all the diodes output and may fall between a regular G2 and a G7 in FL so this would actually lessen the rapid growth of the slow axis or height of the bar.
The line gets increased in length by the 1st cyl "concave" and contracted by the 2nd Cyl "convex" but we need more squeeze, so if this lens makes a line a little shorter it may be slightly better or slightly worse as the beam size is a result of focal length as well....I feel like with spacing I could cheat a better beam out of these, but I will have to try and see.
My big worry with harvesting are the tricks, I doubt they are doing it, but this is the Japan only built unit and they love tricky little interlocks.
Have you ever serviced a Japanese copier machine?
There could be a cute little interlock that when you pull the block cover the board beeps and if in 10 seconds you don't hold and release the hidden interlock a charged ultracap zaps the block.
Now I doubt it, but wouldn't that be an expensive laugh.
p.s. I like the 06 Gball but I want to combine or converge several, I want more Yap a de Zap and at across the yard.
We could knife edge 4 or 5 nubm06 and use a telescopic reduction, but just like Alaskan has found the lenses have to be big if we don't correct the rapid divergence and at some close distances there will be increased clipping.
If I knew we could pull off the Gballs and not shorten the lifespan of the diodes then this would be no problem, cyl correction and combing pairs of 2 then knife edging 3 combined pairs. The 6 diodes would cost 300 vs 840.....so yea, I'm crying poor, boo hoo hoo
Trust me, they have already thought about it and weighed out the value of it vs any possible losses, don't be surprised when you pull the cover and a voice says, service required, unit will lock down until serviced, just like those copiers, they count to 10,000 and lock down until you get service, and used cars have the remote shutdown if you don't pay, of course they don't shut down in traffic, but when you turn it off it won't start again if you haven't paid, and GPS saves skip tracers a lot of work.
But if all they do is lock down that is fine for us parts repurposing folk.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK HERE WE GO, THIS IS THE PLAN.
I Know how to do this, the Gball 06 starts kind of big, a big beam, but it is strong and burns good from point blank to 12 inches, so we use cylindrical pairs, one pair for each axis and set it up so they diverge slightly negative, that is our beam we like at 0-12 inches gets smaller on both axis ever so slightly as long as possible, that gives us the hot beam that we like and it will actually get a little hotter then start to widen out again.
The trick is to get it to run negative as slowly and as long as possible, starting big helps.
Don't mind me, just subbing to this amazing thread! I may not have as much knowledge on everything as you two have, but my passion for finding a new 44 with potential of less divergence/more power excites me beyond belief! Please carry on Vets, as your knowledge that you're spilling out intrigues me. And if you need me to go in on any buys, I'll gladly do so! (If it helps you get a lower price.)
Well I tested coming straight out of the Gball and into a pair of the 6X I had been using with the nubm44 and it makes a dam square beam that has low divergence, it's a little bigger than I would like but that is easily fixed with a BE or telescopic reduction, or combining 2 of them, but for a light show these would be great.
Check out these pics, they are not the best but the beam squares up and stays squared up, and that's what we want.
The before is on the right, that's the raw output of the NUBM06 from the Gball at 15 feet, the burn on the left is a burn after 6X, a pretty good square, and it looks like that at point blank just a little smaller but still a square.
THIS is the old UN CORRECTED beam, just look at the beam width in the air.
The 15 foot square is larger that the starting square and 50% wider and 50% taller is 300% the area, so spot size really matters for instant ignition of material, exceeding the flashpoint needs more concentration of the energy, but the important thing is the divergence correction, because now an expander can be used to zoom it all to a tight burning point where you want it within the limitations of physics, and the far field beam should look fantastic. p.s. I won't be able to get the beam to diverge negative without being able to adjust the Gball distance from the emitter, but we do have a square beam and that will work with an expander very well.
I'm going to make, drill and tap for a lens shelf to mount my cylindrical pair on this nubm06 and I needed a 1.5 inch ID cover tube, yet only one supplier on flebay had any 1.5 inch ID tube and they wanted 18 dollars for a foot of 1/16 inch thick wall tube a foot long, heck I buy the big stuff for that, that price is too high.
Anyway an old D cell Maglite body is close, so I made a copper shims/sleeves out of scrap copper plate to transfer heat and make a tight fit, a little thermal paste won't hurt but I have a snug fit, then I can use the threaded on tail cap for a front cover and mount one of podo's 3X expanders.....I sure am stubborn huh?
BTW if anyone wants to sell an economical expander I am interested.