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WTB nubm05t diode

lasertechgear

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So, I've had some time with my shipment of Nichia laser ***..

In regards to the maximum power output, I cannot say, for I have a mere LaserBee AX3 5.2W which apparently maxes out at 5.443W instead of 5.2W, but I've had the NUBM44 and NUBM05Ts peggin that sum mitch hard and fast.. they were both being fed near 5.5A (between 5.2A to 5.3A). I do remember on several occasions that they both were being fed too much and they would drop wattage like it was goin outta style.

I'm almost done putting together my Full Copper TEC Labbie Dance Laser Contraption at which point will push a good 6 to 6.5A first below room temp to see what these guys really have, then I'll turn the TEC aid off and let the copper do it's thing without fans, more of a real world scenario.

So after shattering a couple of lenses into DUST I gave up on the G Bawlz extraction for a while, until today.. I took a Dremel to the sides of the can and tried to creep in little by little as shallow and lightly as possible at max dremel speed (my hope was to knock the metal out of the way fast enough to see when I've cut into the lense(s), that didn't quite work out), but come to find out the NUGM01T has a two element lens?? These things look as if the can was formed around the lens during it's molten state. Can anyone tell me how to get these out without destroying them??

Also , I'm about to put in another stocking order, RedCowboy, did you want some 05Ts ordered in with the can & G-Ball? I was planning on getting a couple in anyway, just to find a combination of lenses that would work in concert with the GB lenses.

Off Topic: I'm also getting in some 17mm dia. x 17mm height Buck Drivers capable of 100ma to 6A (or more? I'm not quite sure if the 6A ones I ordered were the most powerful or not, I shall ask). If interested PM me with desired current and I'll send a PayPal invoice for $12 to $15 (above 3A). - Mods: Am I allowed to do this yet or do I have to have XX,XXX posts/reps before I tell people I have things to sell?
 



RedCowboy

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I would like to have one with the G-ball on it to experiment with, I think it would be better if we can use an expander and focus to a desired point with the G-ball in place.

I may be able to go straight from G-ball into a cylindrical pair then an expander, I still have not decided if going canless is the better way.

Really blue lasers are only used to make green light as red and blue led's are used, green led's not so much as green led's have an efficiency/longevity issue, but a fix is in the works. I would like to have a block of 8 if a good deal.

I will send you a PM.

You can break the Gball cans off, just put it in a vise and work at it, add a little twisting motion.

This is Lazeerer's video.

Mine put up a bit more of a fight, I noticed in the video how he put the case pin dimple to the left and rocked the diode base to the right, this has the back of the wave guide on the left so if it bumps the can on the way out you are less likely to damage the bond wires.



This is my 07E and it put up a fight but it separated as it was attached, you just have to work at it and give a slight twist.
 
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lasertechgear

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Oh I have the cans off.. it's trying to get the LENSES out of the CANS that seems like the hardest thing I've ever had to do.:gun:
 

RedCowboy

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Use some small flush cutters and cut a slot at the base then peel it like a charcoal pencil, just don't hit the lens with the cutters, that's how I broke mine, they break easy.

I want to stack 2 blocks with Gballs intact and use a pair of large lens to make a telescopic reduction of 16 parallel beams. The blocks stack perfectly.
 

ABarnett

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I've also tried to extract the lens from the Gball can. I've come so close to getting it by painstakingly cutting it with a Dremel cutting disk and I've also tried cutting it with flush cutters and every time it just crumbles. So then I cut the can down as far as I could and didn't damage the lens. And that will fit inside a normal lens holder. It's like the glass is fused to it. Even cutting it all the way on one side and trying to peel it open cracks it.
And back to the NUBM05T. I inquired to a laser supplier in China if they had an nubm44 8x bank and they just sent me an email stating that the nubm05t was the same as the Nubm44. Obviously the Nubm44 is a enclosed diode and the 05t isnt. Also there is a guy selling the 05t on ebay and it shows a LPM test of it over 7 watts. I have bought a couple of the NUBM06 diode banks. I don't have a LPM to test that diode but I've run them side by side at 5 amps and it's pretty hard to tell the difference. I'm getting another NUBM06 diode bank coming within the next few days. So if anyone would like to do a proper test of it let me know. I don't use any heat, I just cut and chop them out as gently as possible. I get most of them out with the Gball still attached.
 
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RedCowboy

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What's the divergence like with the Gball on or off and using a G2 or 3 element, I know the specs on the others.

If it's less than the 44 and the Gball is close to focused I would like to try correcting one intact, if the divergence is more like the 07E and I expect it is, then my 6X pairs may be about perfect, I have more pairs coming but from half way around the world and budget shipping so I don't know how long they will take to arrive, but the 44 would be closer to perfect with 7x or 8x.

Let me know when you have some of the 06 diodes ready to sell and if you can get a LPM test that would be great, especially if the divergence is better.
I do want one with the Gball still attached to test and I plan to use 6 in a build later, well 6 of those or 6 nubm44's, what ever I can get to hold the best beam. But I really want to keep the Gball attached, or use Teflon tape and set it once and never touch it again, but if the Gballs will work then that's a benefit as well. p.s. Yes I know my Cyl need to be rotated 90 degrees, its just a 2d drawing.

 
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DTR

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Also there is a guy selling the 05t on ebay and it shows a LPM test of it over 7 watts.

If you look closely on that listing the picture of the LPM test is from Lazeerer which he found a freak NUBM41(not NUBM05T) diode that did hit over 7W. The picture is screenshot from this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COhYosxS7no

Picture was pulled from 00:50 into the video.
 

RedCowboy

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I know Styropyro said he was driving his at 3.75 each in his 8 block but he said he thought they could take more.

Efficiency keeps improving with each upgrade, and that is good for us because it keeps the blue LD viable, even when green led's improve the blues have a good head start.

The 44 is more efficient than the 7a75 at say 3.75a.
The nubm44 at 3.75a and 4.5v makes 5.9 watts.
The NDB7A75 at 3.75a and 4.7v makes 5.1 watts.
Both as tested with a G2 lens.

Now divergence is another subject.
Only a real LPM test with wattage in/wattage out can compare and tell us what we have.
I am more interested in the 06 as I am waiting to see what the next upgrade is, I see the usefulness of Gball blocks, but if junction width keeps increasing along with output and efficiency??? Maybe a bigger package or stronger existing, the 7875 still has the highest spot density/intensity when you factor in divergence, although not the highest total power.
 
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ABarnett

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This is NUBM06 at 15 feet
 

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RedCowboy

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Is that with the Gball on or in a module with a different lens and if so what lens please, also what current were you driving it at?
 

ABarnett

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It's in a module with a 3 element lens. I haven't run one with the Gball still attached. I ran one with the Gball can cut down and in a lens holder but it didn't work like that.
 

RedCowboy

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I don't know if the 3 element is the best for testing emitter size as we clip the edges, but that's pretty close to the 44 w/3 element.
I got 7/8 at 14 feet with a 3 element on a nubm44.

I would like to see output numbers on the 06, but I want to correct it with the Gball in place.

Do you have a 15 foot print with the Gball intact or is it too out of focus?

 
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RedCowboy

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I have one right here I just put together last night and I can go get a 15 foot G2 print. But it's going to be big, over 2 inches at 15 feet.

I'm curious, I will get a 15 foot of the 44 with a G2, its a brand new one, I will get a pic.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a brand new NUBM44 at 15 feet focused through a real G2 from DTR running a SXD at 4.5a

The focused line is just over 2.25 inches but in a minute it would not burn in the edges of the focused line.

It took 15 seconds to start making a central burn on plywood and the final is after 60 seconds + the very edges would not burn in.

Side note: With the 6x correction this line is well under a 1/2 inch with the same diode and G2.

Pics below.




 
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lasertechgear

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I know Styropyro said he was driving his at 3.75 each in his 8 block but he said he thought they could take more.

Efficiency keeps improving with each upgrade, and that is good for us because it keeps the blue LD viable, even when green led's improve the blues have a good head start.

The 44 is more efficient than the 7a75 at say 3.75a.
The nubm44 at 3.75a and 4.5v makes 5.9 watts.
The NDB7A75 at 3.75a and 4.7v makes 5.1 watts.
Both as tested with a G2 lens.

Now divergence is another subject.
Only a real LPM test with wattage in/wattage out can compare and tell us what we have.
I am more interested in the 06 as I am waiting to see what the next upgrade is, I see the usefulness of Gball blocks, but if junction width keeps increasing along with output and efficiency??? Maybe a bigger package or stronger existing, the 7875 still has the highest spot density/intensity when you factor in divergence, although not the highest total power.

Remind me to take pictures for you of my NUBM05T pointers..

So far just about ALL of the NUBM05Ts I've tested so far can handle 5.2A-5.3A without issue. I will be shooting up towards 6A this week, just to see how much current it'll handle.

I only have a 5.2W LaserBee (actual max is 5.446W) so I can't tell you exactly what the output is on these things yet but I can tell you this.. the 2x18650 hit 5.446W so fast that there is no doubt in my mind that it was pushing at least 6.5W. I have a 2x18650 (Z5 LED Flashlight Host) and a 2x16340 (SkyRay S-R5 Host) both with NUBM05Ts in em, both also with SXD's pretty much maxed out. I'm going to build another one with x-wossee's 6A driver and I'll video log everything. I used up all of my NUBM05Ts (five of them) so I'm going to be ordering more, it is now my favorite because of the cost:power

My SkyRay S-R5 (2x16340) just hit 4.651W, no idea what current it's running at, my work bench looks like tornado aftermath.

RedCowboy - So to answer your question, the NUBM05T has a tighter beam than the NUBM44. I did the same 15' test as you and my result was 1.58"

It's very late, or early (5am), and I've been up all night getting ready for my move so don't mind the crappy image, but here's a shot of the NUBM05T beam at 15-feet hitting my black laundry basket (that way we don't get too much wash compared to my white walls). Image is taken from my phone (Samsung S6 Edge) in the dark with a bright arse laser beamin and I didn't want to mess around with the filters/settings because my basket was burning lol

Here it is:



Oh and this is with a China "G2" that test within 2% of the real 405-G-2.
 

ABarnett

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Awesome! I'm glad to hear this. Definitely can't go wrong with these.
 




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