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Wiring of dual Ben Boost driver

tsteele93

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Hey guys

Great pictures :cool:

I was about to glue my benmboosts to the pill (756mA each), but I tested them before that and I´m glad I did. I first tested them independently and I cant get more than ~400mA with a fresh 2600mAh Sanyo. Then I parellel them, and I get 800.
I should be able to get the ~1.5A right?

Probably Moh messed up the resistors but I doubt it...

Take pics... Upload pics... We will be more likely to be able to help. :)
 

Kizdawg

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My problem was crapy wireing. I had to run 2x silicone wire on all connections. Mine alone both ran 859ma fine but when I paralelled them I only was getting 1350ma now paralelled they actually are putting out ~2A but I had to rewire everything to the diode and driver with doubled up wires.
 

DTR

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The thermal glue used does not conduct electricity. Therefore the drivers are isolated from the coin!

Hope that answered your question!

Greetings,,
When they say non conductive I am pretty sure that means to take for example the flexdrive. The 6 pin chip on the flexdrive that you heatsink if the thermal adhesive gets in between those pins which are not in direct contact it will not short them. That is my understanding when they say non conductive and matches up with what I have experienced.

When you thermally adhere two surfaces to each other the thermal adhesive is just supposed to fill in the microscopic gaps between the two surfaces wherever there is no physical contact so the parts that are still in physical contact will not be electrically isolated. If you ensure that there is no contact like putting a thin layer of thermal adhesive down. Let it dry then put some more down and sink the driver then you will be able to electrically isolate the driver but you will loose a lot of the heatsinking ability as direct contact is better than going through the adhesive.

I have found if you do a really good job heatsinking you will do a poor job electrically isolating and if you do a good job electrically isolating you end up doing a poor job of heatsinking.
 

offroadfreak8582

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When they say non conductive I am pretty sure that means to take for example the flexdrive. The 6 pin chip on the flexdrive that you heatsink if the thermal adhesive gets in between those pins which are not in direct contact it will not short them. That is my understanding when they say non conductive and matches up with what I have experienced.
That's indeed what i meant ;)

When you thermally adhere two surfaces to each other the thermal adhesive is just supposed to fill in the microscopic gaps between the two surfaces wherever there is no physical contact so the parts that are still in physical contact will not be electrically isolated. If you ensure that there is no contact like putting a thin layer of thermal adhesive down. Let it dry then put some more down and sink the driver then you will be able to electrically isolate the driver but you will loose a lot of the heatsinking ability as direct contact is better than going through the adhesive.

I have found if you do a really good job heatsinking you will do a poor job electrically isolating and if you do a good job electrically isolating you end up doing a poor job of heatsinking.
This is true ;) It's hard to do a great heatsinking job and at the same time isolate all off the electricity from the driver..

How are you applying the first thin layer or thermal compound and which compound do you use? It seems hard to get a as thin layer as possible..

greetings,,
 

Kizdawg

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put a blob of adhesive and set your driver in then let it dry you dont want to press the driver into the heatsink if you want extra heatsinking then set a heatsink on the component you want to cool then set it to the main heatsink. Dont just press one of these to your main heatsink. most under 1000ma dont need heatsinking.
 
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cilegray

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That's indeed what i meant ;)



This is true ;) It's hard to do a great heatsinking job and at the same time isolate all off the electricity from the driver..

How are you applying the first thin layer or thermal compound and which compound do you use? It seems hard to get a as thin layer as possible..

greetings,,
If you want to do a good job at both conducting heat and insulating electricity... a thermal tape is your best bet. I got mine from Digikey, it's made by Bergquist and is the stuff that comes with the TaskLED drivers. Works wonders, just not when you have 'unflat' surfaces such as the benboosts... I put down a layer of 0.005 tape, and stick some Arctic Alumina adhesive to fill the gaps once the tape has set.
 
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Blord

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I found thermal silicone paste works fine. It keeps the driver in place when it hardens out. And it fills automatically all uneven surfaces like the Ben driver. A big bonus is that it easily removed again with a sharp cutter if it is misplaced.
 
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I've tried many attemps to get that clean solder joint like in the pic and man I just can't get it done... I assumed it had to be aluminum solder?
 

Blord

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The one with the black wire on the coin ? It was just normal solder I use for other joints.
That was the first joint I did. I heated the coin to 200-300 degree Celcius with a torch.
The solder melts on the coin like butter and then add the wires. You need to do it before the driver is attach to the coin. Otherwise you will destroy the driver by overheating it.

 




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