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FrozenGate by Avery

Wiring of dual Ben Boost driver






85%copper that's why there like gold :thinking: Grab a kouger 22K very sexy or anything canadian b4 1967... well there were some 68 quarters made of silver but nit many... Why use coins at all??? cuz there round?
 
cilegray said:
Nice collection there.... I myself have one of those 100 lira... And a bunch of worthless japanese coins...ayone have any info on these or a good website to find material makeup of different coins? Btw those canadian twonies you have can easily be popped into seperate pieces...tho its considered illegal to deface any coin... Psh
Click to expand...

The middle of the toonies are 92% copper! :D That could work good and the outer layer 99% nickel.

And any penny before 1996 are 98% copper. :D I'll be trying one of em as a heatsink since I got a few lying around.

Here's where I got the info if anyone wants to know http://www.bcscta.ca/resources/hebden/chem/Coin Compositions.pdf
-Anthony
 
I'm sure that coins can be an inexpensive way to sink lasers and this all is great, BUT keep a couple of things on mind.

It takes VERY LITTLE of some impurities to DRASTICALLY lower thermal conductivity of copper.

If the coins have pure copper with some coating or plating, that is probably not bad, but if it is an alloy then be very careful. You could end up worse than just making good aluminum plates.

Thermal Conductivity of Metals


Alloying Elements Effects on Properties of Copper Alloys

Copper and Copper Alloys
 
I have just been cutting up my old copper video card waterblock it's been working great and it's easy to cut. search the net you can buy discontinued stuff prety cheap. Damn next on the list is a smelter!
 
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The best canadian pennies to use are 42-77 since 3/4 of the impurities it contains is zinc....and zinc affecting thermal transfer of cu the least
 
Hey Blord, when you thermal pasted the drivers to the coin, did you isolate any of the components on the bottom side? Or did you just slap the drivers right on there?
 
wheedy said:
Hey Blord, when you thermal pasted the drivers to the coin, did you isolate any of the components on the bottom side? Or did you just slap the drivers right on there?
Click to expand...

The thermal glue used does not conduct electricity. Therefore the drivers are isolated from the coin!

Hope that answered your question!

Greetings,,
 
offroadfreak8582 said:
The thermal glue used does not conduct electricity. Therefore the drivers are isolated from the coin!

Hope that answered your question!

Greetings,,
Click to expand...
More or less, yeah. Thanks!

I asked because I was testing out how I was going to sink my drivers and noticed that they would short out in a certain position, but the glue would prevent certain parts from touching the heatsink, which now that I think about it, fixes the shorting problem.
 
I didn't put anything in between. Just a dot silicone paste and put the driver onto.
Don't pressed it too hard or some components will make contact with the coin.
 
Hey guys

Great pictures :cool:

I was about to glue my benmboosts to the pill (756mA each), but I tested them before that and I´m glad I did. I first tested them independently and I cant get more than ~400mA with a fresh 2600mAh Sanyo. Then I parellel them, and I get 800.
I should be able to get the ~1.5A right?

Probably Moh messed up the resistors but I doubt it...
 
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Read the tiny numbers on the set resistor. The formula is 0.19/R=I
R=resistance in Ohm and I=current in Ampere.

Example, on my driver the smd resistor was R510. So 0.19/.51=0,372549.
I measure 373mA on my Fluke with the testload. Pretty accurate !
 
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