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FrozenGate by Avery

where do you guys buy your lens mounts for your scanners?






seriously man, its perfectly fine.
and haha, 525,00 dollars just bein tossed away.
buuut its for a great cause!! =]:D:D
 
GASP...Alright so you know how the laser was flickering? I thought it was the batteries so i replaced them but now it is really dim. (like dollars store brightness). So i turned it off and back on again and it started to fade. That is as far as i am going to go...Is this diodes life just coming to an end?
 
ya ur diode is actually diein slower than mine. mine flickered, got dim, and died right away. but yes, ur diode is diein.

:cryyy:
 
:(

Its a LOC with a rkcstr in a z-bolt heatsink. runs off of 6vs..

I could use the heatsink for my project though :D

EF: did you see that big post i made up there? It had a bunch of questions that could use answering if you are willing...
 
I did see that post..

To answer your question about the LOC first. The rkcstr requires at least 7.2V to drive a LOC diode. That could be part of your probem.

As far as how much violet, it really depends on your taste. I can give you a ballpark, but I need to know the powers of the other lasers first.

The baseplate size depends you your unique setup. You need to measure everything and figure that out yourself.

I'm not sure what the beam height is on the z-bolt heatsinks off the top of my head and I don't have a ruler nearby ATM. Just measure from the bottom to the center of the beam. You'll have to fine tune everything using metal shims in most cases, so total accuracy is not necessary.

You definitely could run that module from a flexmod, but it is risky without knowing exactly how much current to give it. You could attach a test load to the original driver once you remove the module and check how much current it was feeding it. Then set the flexmod to that current also. With flexmods, you have to set the modulation (on the correction amp) so that the flexmod NEVER recieves more than 4.9V on the modulation input..

Incorporating a PC power supply is how many people power their fans and any othr 12V devices. I don't recommend running them at 10V. You should be able to run the fans and flexmods in parallel, yes.

and NEVER, EVER BUY ANYTHING FROM LASERWORLD!!!!!
 
ElektroFreak said:
I did see that post..

To answer your question about the LOC first. The rkcstr requires at least 7.2V to drive a LOC diode. That could be part of your probem.

As far as how much violet, it really depends on your taste. I can give you a ballpark, but I need to know the powers of the other lasers first.

The baseplate size depends you your unique setup. You need to measure everything and figure that out yourself.

I'm not sure what the beam height is on the z-bolt heatsinks off the top of my head and I don't have a ruler nearby ATM. Just measure from the bottom to the center of the beam. You'll have to fine tune everything using metal shims in most cases, so total accuracy is not necessary.

You definitely could run that module from a flexmod, but it is risky without knowing exactly how much current to give it. You could attach a test load to the original driver once you remove the module and check how much current it was feeding it. Then set the flexmod to that current also. With flexmods, you have to set the modulation (on the correction amp) so that the flexmod NEVER recieves more than 4.9V on the modulation input..

Incorporating a PC power supply is how many people power their fans and any othr 12V devices. I don't recommend running them at 10V. You should be able to run the fans and flexmods in parallel, yes.

and NEVER, EVER BUY ANYTHING FROM LASERWORLD!!!!!
Click to expand...

It only needs 6...3v for the diode and 2.5(?) for the driver. I have been running it off of 6 forever and it has been perfect. I guess it was just its time...Alright i just did a test with it(let it rest for a couple of hours..): I turn it on and it comes on at full brightness but in the next 5 seconds dims down till it is off. Do the batteries just not have enough "oomph"?

I am starting with a RGY. Red-200mW(depending on what i set the flexmod at...350-400mA with an aixiz glass...) Green - o-like labby. This will probably be 100-150mW.

Alright...Ill order everything and then order the plate/box

I have a caliper next to me...Ill just mess around a little bit.

I actually emailed susie. I will ask her what current the green runs at. That would be cool to have a analogue green/red in my scanner. If the blu-ray isnt too hard to accomplish (200mW or something) than i will probably add that in too..

EDIT: susie said that it would be very hard to mod/it can be easily broken(???). I then asked her about her DIY modules(I could put one in a z-bolt heatsink) but she said they only sell complete modules...I really dont know what to do for a green at this point. I would like to have the choice between analogue/ttl...

Do you have a link to a 12V computer power supply? If i change the green to analogue then both (or all 3 if i do violet) will run off of 12V. So will the fans...All that leaves is the scanners. My dad was going to buy these for me for my birthday and i think he got this set: laser show galvo scanner CW20K Scanning galvanometer - eBay (item 120448014360 end time Aug-13-09 07:59:05 PDT)

It runs off of mains. If i get that power port from jaycar how could i attach the 12V supply and the mains supply? It has three prongs on the back...

What?! I just bought four 40W 50k scanners from them!

Thanks for the help
 
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^You're probably right about the rkcstr driver. Now that I think about it it does have a lower dropoff voltage than most othe LM317-family regulators.. It very well might take 6V.. I have a bunch here, but I have only used flexdrives in my pointer projects.

Go to any computer supply website and seach for power supplies. Any of them will work. They actually provide 3.3V, 5V, and 12V simultaneously, but you only need to use the 12V rails.
 
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Im going to try MORE fresh batteries...Maybe the ones i put in were drained...I dont have my DMM right now..EDIT: they were drained. I replace them with really nice batteries and it worked perfectly. I then used the same batteries that were in the laser on the fan and it barely pushed any air...

Alright will do.

Did you see my EDIT? o-like really doesnt want me to modify their products :D Could i take a "DIY" module and desolder the exisiting driver and replace it with the flexmod? It would probably be kinda hard to do (the driver is glued on..) but i could try. The TEC labby looks somewhat hard to modify. <-- What are your thoughts on this?
 
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Susie's right. It can very easily be broken. It is not impossible, but it is risky and WILL void your warranty. Here's the thing. If you want analog, either pay the extra $ for a system with analog, or mod your module. The other option is to take the cheaper module, keep the TTL and make a green scanner. Then later, build a separate RGB scanner. Any of these options has benefits and drawbacks. It's up to you what you do now.

You'd oviously need another driver for the TEC, since the flexmod doesn't drive both that and the laser. An LM317 driver will work well, but you'll have to temperature tune the syatem in order to get maximum stable output back.

There are a great deal of various options available to you. One of the main factors in your decision making process is how fat your wallet is. Also, do you want to build the scanner in a short amount of time, or wait until you're done rebuilding the green module? The decision making is up to you..
 
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I guess i will keep the green ttl and possibly make the red analogue(is this possible?)

I would be happy with this. Any idea on the power of the violet i would need? RGY is fine for now. Im sure i will be at it again improving/updating my scanner.

My wallet is however much i get for my b-day and 100-200 extra. Probably 500-600 dollars...
 
I'm just going to settle for TTL. If i want to upgrade i will buy a better green laser...

The only thing i need to figure out is how to power everything. The green/scanners run off of mains and i will have 6 fans/1 flexmod (they both run off of 12V).

I will also be building my own wooden box. The aluminum plate will be up on 4 "pegs" so it wont touch the bottom piece of wood. I will have 2 fans under the piece of aluminum to suck air out. Then two on the left and right sides.

Anyone have a good name for it?
 
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