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FrozenGate by Avery

Ultrafire C3 direct-pressfit heatsinks!






I have these: :eg: :gun:

00954046000-1
 
Good luck with that. ^^^ :crackup:

It's quite difficult to get solder to adhere to aluminum.

I've heard of people using a micro torch to get everything hot enough....
Even then, AL isn't meant to be soldered.

On another note, I was wondering about the lack of lip as well...
I like to be able to press the can solidly into a socket to ensure it is square. :undecided:
 
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If the lack of the lip was any sort of a problem, I would not be selling it as such.

Trust me, it works exactly the same, it does not affect thermal transfer one bit, helps to reduce the time needed to make the sink and keep the price low.

If you are so paranoid about it, I would have no trouble sending out a unit for testing or whatever you want to do with it to calm your nightmares - because I am that sure of my design and machining skills.
 
Would you make a "lipped" for a whopping $15 shipped?

I found a US seller for the host btw...still pricing everything out and figuring out what my budget is...I have to get xmas presents soon...too bad no one would enjoy a laser :eg:

The lip with a little mx-4 thermal compound will most definitely increase thermal transfer marginally due to the surface area of the lip touching the diode or the compound then the diode which will be almost i would say 30% more surface area. That's alot more heat transfer...the no lip version is like diet Pepsi...though some people like it, its just missing that sweet taste of real sugar to make it over the top.

Call me crazy but I want to make this into a 1.1 or 1.2W. Duty cycles duty cycles duty cycles.
 
1+W into a 14500 host? What kind of poor battery will suffer THAT current drain?

If you really want to, I can make it. Though I can pretty much guarantee you do NOT see the difference between the two.

Though, $5 more for like, 5 minutes of work does not sound bad :p If you really want it, PM me with the details.
 
I've had some trouble disassembling these little things. What IF the solder is latched onto the sides of the head? I've tried desoldering, but it heatsinks too well, and either the braid gets stuck on the blob, or the PCB deteriorates... ideas?
 
I don't think I understand what do you mean, solder latched to the sides of the head.

I just put tweezers into the PCB and turn, and entire thing (Driver, pill, emitter, reflector) comes clean out.

I mean, they couldn't put it together in the factory if the solder blob or something got stuck in the threads, right?
 
I guess you're right. Back when I had two C3's I had no idea of any lasers of any sort. Now that I joined the flashlight-gutting-laser-modding community, I now know how to work these things. But to get these things apart back then, I basically destroyed the entire head... since Im now more knowledgeable, I think Ill try that approach the next time I get my hands on a C3.

Thanks for the help. My iron is a HAKKO blue 40 watt iron.
 
What did you break exactly. I might be able to help you as I have C3 parts.?

If its Just the stock LED driver which iam guessing it is i have loads of ones that will fit in the C3.
 
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