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Ultrafire C3 direct-pressfit heatsinks!

Eudaimonium

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Hey guys, I'm proud to present my newest heatsink offer,

the Ultrafire C3 host, both stainless steel and regular anodized black version! (1x 14500 or 1x AA battery host):


And I've made a nice heatsink for it:




Now, here's a handy disassembly tutorial for the light:

First of, obviously, take off the head of the light:


What you will see inside is the board:



With some holes on the side. You can use those to unscrew everything apart:

Just use tweezers or something similar.

Once you get that out, you will get an empty head, a reflector, and a brass pill containing the driver board and LED emitter.



My heatsink will replace the reflector, but you still need the brass piece to hold your driver and connections.

It's advisable you drill the hole right through the brass piece so you have room for your diode's pins and driver.

Once you pressfit your diode, and install your driver and connection in the brass pill, just put everything back together the way it came off:

This is empty host, showing the drilled out brass piece and empty heatsink.

In the stainless version, you get a small GITD ring which is really cool.

It gets to stay with my heatsink design, ofcourse :)





That's it peoples, heatsinks are $10 with free shipping worldwide (as always).

Enjoy!

P.S. Due to the size of the heatsink,
1) I would not reccomend a Class IV builds in this laser,
2) I will NOT make a 12mm bored set-screw version of the heatsinks, as there is just no place for the screws (heatsink would be too tiny).
 
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Eudaimonium

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Thanks, guys!

xXDUNNXx, no, only heatsinks, you have to order the hosts for yourself. But they are very easy to take apart and modify.
 

Flaminpyro

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$10.00 :eek: you are a whore :na:

Really they are very cool I always did like direct press,
at that price I suspect you will sell lots of em ;)
 

LaZeRz

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Yer, guys this kit really has it all for a moderately powered build. The host is sexy, the heat sink eliminates the need for an aixiz module so thermal transfer is increased by at least 2 times between the diode and heat sink, it is pocket sized, it is cheap and the brass pill provides you with room to heatsink your driver and also gives you + and - connections so there's no need for having a negative feed through the body.

What more could you possibly want? :D :D
 
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Mohrenberg

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how do you keep the diode from popping through? i don't see a lip to press it into.
 

Eudaimonium

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Haha, thanks Jeff :D There really isn't much work or material in them, if they start selling maybe I'll even drop the price by a dollar or two.

Thank you LaZeRz, as well. Host is indeed perfect for say, 6X bluray or maybe a reddie with efficient driver. No 638, 445nm or 12x 405nm though, I'd say that the duty cycles would be far too short to enjoy it.

EDIT- Moh, what do you mean by "diode popping out"? It gets pressed into the pocket there and stays unless you hammer it out. Not sure what could be the problem.
 
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Blord

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He means there is no lip on the front side to prevent popping it out on the other side.
Are the heatsink the same for the black and the silver host ?

Btw the XP-E LED of the C3 flashlight is pretty cool. You could re-use it in the blank C6 host with the 1.2A DealEtreme driver.
 
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Mohrenberg

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yeah thats what i meant. Would it not also be easy for the person to mess up nd have the diode sitting at an angle since there is no lip to press it up against and make sure it's level in relation to the lens cavity
 

xXDUNNXx

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I saw that too...does anyone have a stainless steel one of these by any chance? Or does anyone know a US seller? I really don't want to have to order and wait for it from hong kong...
 

Eudaimonium

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Oh that :D Took me a while to understand what a "lip" in this context means.

No, I do not do that, because in my experience the diode always does stay put, never pops out on the other side, and is always leveled properly.

I am not even sure how could you even press a diode into it's pocket (if it's well machined) that it's not leveled.

And this way it's even easier to take out without damaging it. I see no harm in the lack of the lip.

Blord, yes the heatsink is the same for both hosts.
DUNN, not sure why are you in such a hurry, but I assure you that heatsinks shipped by me will take aproximately the same time to arrive to you, as will the host from China, that is, two weeks or so.
 

Flaminpyro

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This insane are you nuts or you just trying to drive us nuts, what do you mean making a direct press heat sink with out a front lip, I'm going to call a cop right now :crackup:

Of course this will work the only problem would be if the press is made funny or something like with out the proper shoulder depth to stop the diode in the right place. other wise the diode should should slide in and be held by the cavity wall just like any other time.
with out the front wall/lip there will be a tiny bit less heat transfer but there is no reason why it shouldn't work just fine and as he said it will be easier to get the diode out ;)




Oh that :D Took me a while to understand what a "lip" in this context means.

No, I do not do that, because in my experience the diode always does stay put, never pops out on the other side, and is always leveled properly.

I am not even sure how could you even press a diode into it's pocket (if it's well machined) that it's not leveled.

And this way it's even easier to take out without damaging it. I see no harm in the lack of the lip.

Blord, yes the heatsink is the same for both hosts.
DUNN, not sure why are you in such a hurry, but I assure you that heatsinks shipped by me will take aproximately the same time to arrive to you, as will the host from China, that is, two weeks or so.
 
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Eudaimonium

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"Laser police! Drop the diodes and back away from the soldering station!" :D

I always have around 2.5 mm of the pocket dept (which is just tad less than 5.6mm).

I always devote a LOT of time to make sure it's perfect. Trust me, it works, every time. I made quite a few lasers for myself using the same method, it's always perfect.
I wouldn't be selling them if it weren't.
 

Blord

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Oh well I could always make a solder blob to act as a lip. If the dimension of the hole has 100% accuracy a lip isn't necessary.
 

Eudaimonium

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How do you plan on soldering on a heatsink?

Besides, it isn't necessary. I tried it on my own lasers first. It works, I was like, "cool, one step less".

The pocket is as close to 100% perfect as one can get on a lathe. Lip not needed.
 




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