Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

To oudin or not to oudin...

J

jasonp

0
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
2
Points
0
Hello all,

Well, as this is my first post I guess I should say hi! I suppose my question is in the title... but of course there is preamble :yh:

I recently got hold of an argon head / power supply combo (JDSU type, 20mW 488nm single line) which does 5mW at 4.2A, 20mW at 6.3A and 45mW at 8A (max rated tube current). It's a great thing :)

I also have an old Cyonics (about 10 years old!) head with a similar design to my newer JDSU head, i.e. same filament current / similar tube voltage and current specs which I'm trying to drive off the same PSU. However, predictably, it won't start. Use an oudin coil I hear you cry!!! And herein lies the question... will an oudin coil fry my lovely new switchmode power supply?

Technical details, the PSU is a 211OU-SLCBCC and came with a 2211-20SLE head. The laser I'm trying to start is a Cyonics 2201-20SLB rated at 105V / 10A (I think!).

Anyway thanks in advance, I'll get some pics up soon too!
 
Last edited:





Kick the tube with your oudin :eg:

If you have an oudin, I assume you know how to use it.

I have never had this action "bleed back" into the PSU.

I have had it shut down my wireless network though :undecided:

Peace,
dave
 
Hey,

I've been given one link by Diachi for sourcing an Oudin coil but does anyone have any other suggestions as to where to find one? Any 2nd hand ones around on the forum?

Oudin coil. Anything to do with Norse gods?

M
:)
 
For those who didn't knwo what I meant, in his sig he said he wants a >500mW 808nm IR diode. Which is why I posted that, for those who were confused.
 
At first I would try to heat the tube up with a hairdryer and then try to start it again. Sometimes this helps and it's easier than to risk the semiconductors of your power supply. If it doesn't start at all and you tried several times, you could still try harder ways to push your tube.

Best regards
Argon
 
argon said:
At first I would try to heat the tube up with a hairdryer and then try to start it again. Sometimes this helps and it's easier than to risk the semiconductors of your power supply. If it doesn't start at all and you tried several times, you could still try harder ways to push your tube.

Best regards
Argon
Click to expand...

I've never had any luck with the heat gun technique. Not that it might sometimes work...

In 20 years of doing this, I have only damaged a system once, and that was the little light board in the head. I replaced the 2n2222 and away it went.

A proper BD series coil used near the heatsink would almost NEVER do semi damage, provided the power is already on. Reason? The semiconductors are already conducting, and the low pass filters on a properly made laser power supply prevent the HV from getting back to the FETS/NPNs.

BTW, one of the secrets to using a OUDIN coil is using it at minimum current, ie just turned on. Too much usually inhibits cathode spot formation by making the initial discharge unstable.

Steve
 
LSRFAQ said:
I've never had any luck with the heat gun technique. Not that it might sometimes work...

In 20 years of doing this, I have only damaged a system once, and that was the little light board in the head. I replaced the 2n2222 and away it went.

A proper BD series coil used near the heatsink would almost NEVER do semi damage, provided the power is already on. Reason? The semiconductors are already conducting, and the low pass filters on a properly made laser power supply prevent the HV from getting back to the FETS/NPNs.

BTW, one of the secrets to using a OUDIN coil is using it at minimum current, ie just turned on. Too much usually inhibits cathode spot formation by making the initial discharge unstable.

Steve
Click to expand...

THAT is a gem I have never heard before. Thanks

Peace,
dave
 
Zap it!!

The power supply will be fine, just dont go hog wild. Like the previous poster said, turn the knob until you just start to hear it crackle (barely on) and give her a zap on the heat sink fins near the anode end (watch out for the voltage levels present at that end of the tube).

I've shocked a lot of stuff into life with my BD-10A... best money I've ever spent!!!

Also as a side note, be careful while using those around electronics. While I was using mine once, I saw my TV remote control lighting up about 5 ft. away. Every time I turned the coil on, the buttons on the remote would light up. Needless to say, the remote no longer works correctly, and it didn't even come within 5ft of the coil.
 
Morgan said:
... Good place to find a coil... ? 2nd hand maybe?

M
:)
Click to expand...

Guess what holds their value better then a rust free, 1974 VW BUG.

You want a BD-10A, or similar, you can check Ebay, but its often cheaper to just buy one.

Electro-Technic Products Inc. Leak and Pinhole Detection

I'm shocked that 300Evil's coil killed something at 5 feet, these things are not that energetic at all, I'm betting it was a "soft" kill and the thing's microprocessor overwrote its own flash memory.

But one should handle them with respect and away from one's sensitive gear, or around computers with the case off, etc.

A solidly grounded outlet with conductive conduit in the wall is a good idea.

Steve
 
So these things will kill a PHR then? :D j/k

Thanks for the link Steve.

M
:)

P.S. 300Evil is GooeyGus?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top