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FrozenGate by Avery

The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

Saw it ... looks good. I'll stick to a groove and later I'll see what happens. Polished and anodized purple red for my girl-friend :D
 





Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

well the driver would have to push up to I'd say 4Amps from 2 18650's and the driver chamber can be made deeper or wider.
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

and it can be linear, step-up isn't needed?
maybe I could have a look at this driver, but it's not definitive. If I was making and selling it, the main problem would be the shipping cost
 
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Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

as long as it provides a variable control from say 1-4A at 2-2.5v I don't care if it quacks. (some might give it odd looks when they power on the laser)
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

Xtrm2Rick said:
do we have to put polished+anodized in the google doc sheet like putting a P behind the anodizing type or will all the anodized hosts be polished before anodizing? i absolutly dont want a scratched host like in those pictures :o
Click to expand...

What and where is this google doc sheet?
Is this an order form? Do I need to fill one out?

thanks!
Chuck
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

I did want to specify very clearly that whatever driver gets made, it HAS to be positive ground driver so that the barrel itself is teh positive connection.
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

Ok, I meet with the machinist today at 3pm to discuss having these made, things could go very quickly once we have enough #'s. Time to pony up and get a few.
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

Added my info (presuming pricing is reasonable), thanks for the opportunity. Might have missed it, but what diode pocket does the Beast take, or is it undecided currently? I'd be in for a 9mm or C-Mount, no issue to me.

Also: I would be able to develop a driver for the higher-powered diodes. If anyone is interested, let me know what diode current and voltage you'd need, and what power source you'd prefer. 2 18650s would be most sensible. Price point is directly related to efficiency, would people prefer simple and cheap but inefficient, or more expensive but higher-efficiency? I can prototype a couple of them once I know what people are after.

Another edit: Is it possible to add a 3mm hole for an LED in the head of the Beast? Visible warning light would be an option in that case, some people may prefer this for safety reasons (esp. with IR).
 
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Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

Not a bad idea bout the 3mm hole charlie. I will certainly work on it. I donno bout anyone else but here's what I'D like to see with the drivers.

input voltage 2 18650's. I've scratched the idea of an extension tube. would need to be a current regulator as needed for laser diodes. Output would be 1A-4A variable with 2-2.9v. Case positive setup for c-mounts . Efficiency to me is not that important, but I"ll let others speak on that too. The beast will take a 9mm, 5.6mm or c-mount.
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

charliebruce said:
Also: I would be able to develop a driver for the higher-powered diodes. If anyone is interested, let me know what diode current and voltage you'd need, and what power source you'd prefer. 2 18650s would be most sensible. Price point is directly related to efficiency, would people prefer simple and cheap but inefficient, or more expensive but higher-efficiency? I can prototype a couple of them once I know what people are after.

Another edit: Is it possible to add a 3mm hole for an LED in the head of the Beast? Visible warning light would be an option in that case, some people may prefer this for safety reasons (esp. with IR).
Click to expand...

I would also like to see a 3mm hole for a warning LED. Two 18650's sounds like a good power source. As for the driver, a mid-range efficiency with a not so cheap, not so expensive price would be great.
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

I can build a driver, maybe 70%-90% efficiency, capable of stepping down up to 9v to between 1.8 and 3v at up to 6A, and with a warning LED, for about $40 shipped. I'd aim for 5-10% current ripple maximum, but I can't guarantee this until I've checked my design thoroughly on a scope, and for that I need to actually have built my prototypes.

Would people use a pre-set, one-current driver which doesn't drift at all (send it back to me, for a nominal fee I change the current), or an adjustable driver? Pre-set would have much lower current drift than adjustable. It may be an option to have two different current ranges, triggered by clicking the tail switch quickly, but only with my pre-set design.

If it would be easier, I can set this up as a poll in the corresponding section and see what the majority want?

Also, @Kenom, would you be drilling the heads yourself? If someone wanted to lathe their own mount for, say, a green module, would this also be an option?
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

I would want adjustable current. I don't like the idea of clicking the tail switch quickly to change the current range. What would stop this from happening on accident? I tend to double click buttons sometimes on accident. Or would something else be required for the range to change?
 
Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3

Generally, potentiometers will drift slightly, especially with temperature changes, and a very low change in resistance could possibly have a large impact on the current output, when the current is so high. I can do it without potentiometer drift being an issue, it just adds a bit of complexity to the circuit.

To change modes, you'd click the laser switch 3 times, this would be configurable - maybe 5-click, if you wanted?
 
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