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FrozenGate by Avery

The mistery of the Dilda circuit.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 8382
  • Start date Start date





Well, it must change, changing the voltage ..... after all, the regulation is supposed to be done at diode side, not at battery side.

In these circuits, usually, the extra power become just turned in heath .....
 
Hey Albert...

I just did this test... Again...

Using freshly charged 3.0Volt CR2 batteries the Dilda draws 340mA at the switch...
and outputs 162mW..

Using freshly charged 3.6Volt CR2 batteries the Dilda draws 400mA at the switch...
and outputs 212mW...


Jerry
 
@ lasersbee: correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't a bit strange, being a current regulator ?

I'm not saying that it don't happen, just feeling it a bit strange :confused: :thinking:


Edit: i had still an IR dilda, around, and found it, but cannot reach to draw the circuit, cause half of the module is covered with dark epoxy resin ..... does anyone have one of them without resin, for get the circuit and see if it's really a current regulator, or if the circuit have something strange that can justify this variation ?
 
Last edited:
HIMNL9 said:
@ lasersbee: correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't a bit strange, being a current regulator ?

I'm not saying that it don't happen, just feeling i a bit strange :confused: :thinking:
Click to expand...

I just now.. this morning... performed the above test again... for the 10th time
since I bought my Dildas.,.
I used a Digital Multi-Meter and a Lab Quality Newport 1825-C LPM with
a New 818T Thermopile Head..

I think you missed my Post #3 on this thread and the Link I provided...
If the Driver was regulated... how could I get 322mW out of a Dilda by increasing
the input Voltage...

Jerry
 
Last edited:
Wait. Lasersbee dildas draw more current at higher voltage and was bought long ago. My old dilda was sold, and the one I have now which was bought on DX this month doesn't, neither does a new model from O-like.

Is it possible that they improved the circuit?

We are making the tests at the battery side, btw. I'll upload a photo of the circuit asap, could you post one of yours lasersbee? I'm gonna test if the power increases or not too. Give me an hour ;)

Yours,
Albert
 
A long time ago someone here talked about making extension tubes for the dilda so you could use 3 batteries in it for greater output.

I don't think it ever happened, if it did I would surely pay $20 for one. :D
 
yeah I remember that threads. That was by the time I first came into this forum. I even remember asking Jerry multiple times about the risks of using the other batteries like a noob (I indeed was a noob lol).

Btw, there's something that stranges me. Laserbee says at 3V 320mA like just my or the other one. But 400mA at 8V. If it's confirmed that it's a different circuit, we probably will have to give our dildas the boost by adjusting the pot!

Yours,
Albert
 
Do we know that the new style and old style dilda uses the same driver? I mean so far it seems that it only works on the old style.
 
lasersbee said:
I just now.. this morning... performed the above test again... for the 10th time
since I bought my Dildas.,.
I used a Digital Multi-Meter and a Lab Quality Newport 1825-C LPM with
a New 818T Thermopile Head..

I think you missed my Post #3 on this thread and the Link I provided...
If the Driver was regulated... how could I get 322mW out of a Dilda by increasing
the input Voltage...

Jerry
Click to expand...

No, no, i'm NOT saying anything against your posts and tests ..... i was just wondering about why this happens ..... see what i mean, we have here a driver that, apparently, is a regulated driver ..... with op amps, a sense resistor (1.5 ohm, and why put a sense resistor in serie with the load, if not for regulate current ?), a trimmer connected to the input of one of the op amps (the other is connected as buffer), a power transistor driven from the op-amp, and all the rest that give the impression that this IS (or, at least, must be) a current regulator with a feedback loop (but i can't be sure, cause, as i've said, mine is half covered with dark epoxy , so i can see and follow the tracks of only part of the circuit) ..... then, there's also a big resistor (6,2 ohm, in my unit), that, opposite to any logic, is connected in serie with the battery, at the input, and this is against any current regulation circuits principles, cause, imho, if i put a resistor in serie to a current regulation circuit, when the current change, can change also the voltage drop on this resistor, so also the power supply and references of the op-amps may change (uh ..... maybe is this the problem ?) .....

I'm REALLY confused, about this driver .....
 
I've made a photo of the driver on mine and also made a video showing how I increase and then decrease the voltage vs an amperimeter and a LPM. Just as I predicted, this seems to be a new driver. Current is regulated to 320mA from 3-4V to 10V. I turned the pot to a 380mA current draw from the batteries and now it seems the power boosted. I'll upload the photos and the video asap (300MB of video >.>)

@HIML9: this is why I called this thread the mistery of the dilda circuit lol. It makes no sense!

@Lasersbee: I do believe your tests, but since I believe mines too, there's only an explanation: the driver is new. Upload some photos of your driver when you're able to :D
 
Hallucynogenyc said:
3.-The circuit on this laser has been changed (I don't think so)
Click to expand...

I think that is a very viable option. I know for certain that there are dildas out there that will give higher power output with supply voltage raised from 6 to 7.2 volts, current consumption raises to match.

As this is obviously a design flaw, its quite likely that later versions, or even different imitations from other factories, have improved driver circuitry that supllies constant current from, say, 5 volts and up. Such a driver would not be difficult to build, and only fail when you crank up the supply voltage so high the dissipaton fries the driver.

If you want to make sure, i can post pictures of the driver circuits from 2 dildas that show power increase when fed from 7.2 vs 6 volts, and i'm sure the difference in circuitry would be quite apparent when you compare them to whats in yours.
 
Here are the photos for my dilda driver. I hope the video will be uploaded in about 2 hours.

dildadriverhallucynogen.png
 
Mine is different ..... i also tried to take away part of the epoxy for make a decent pic ..... got to take away two pieces from the ic and transistor, but the rest is too much glued to the components, and i think that if i try to take away also this part, i broke the driver ..... anyway, i managed to detach enough for see that is different.

attachment.php
 

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Marcusss said:
Why would you want 6 o.0?
Click to expand...

Because it's a laser addiction ..... some peoples feel it for lasers, instead than for drugs .....

Not me, anyway ..... i have no laser addictions ..... only 30 or 40 pointers, modules, builds and units around, sparsed a bit everywhere, but it's not an addiction ..... no no ..... no addictions at all .....

Sorry, but now i have to go ..... need to shoot some beams ..... it's at least 5 minutes, that i don't turn on a laser, and my hands are starting to shake a bit .....

(J/K :D)
 
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