The mistery of the Dilda circuit.

[Deleted member 8382]

I remember my old dilda being like what you just posted. Look at my circuit and tell me if it makes more sense to you than yours xD

 

[Marcusss]

Because it's a laser addiction ..... some peoples feel it for lasers, instead than for drugs .....

Not me, anyway ..... i have no laser addictions ..... only 30 or 40 pointers, modules, builds and units around, sparsed a bit everywhere, but it's not an addiction ..... no no ..... no addictions at all .....

Sorry, but now i have to go ..... need to shoot some beams ..... it's at least 5 minutes, that i don't turn on a laser .....

(J/K )

Lmao ;O. I will proberbly get a dilda somtime in the future or so and pot mod it a fair bit as people have achieved to hit it up over 300mw's!
Pot mod'in is the correct thing to bump it up right?

 

[HIMNL9]

I remember my old dilda being like what you just posted. Look at my circuit and tell me if it makes more sense to you than yours xD

Sorry, is difficult to track down a circuit from a double side pcb, without see it counter-light for follow all the vias ..... anyway ..... the ic, the transistor and the reference seems the same, the central of the trimmer seem connected to the same pin of the ic, there's a diode that is not in mine, maybe an added protection, there's also there a resistor in serie with the battery (also if in your one, it's 2,7 ohm, instead 6,2, so if the variation is caused from this, in your one must be much lower than in mine, but this is just a personal opinion), and also in your one i can see the 1.5 ohm resistor used as current sensor ..... for the rest, sorry, cannot say more than this, from just a pic.

 

[ZRTMWA]

So the older style dildas have circuits that will allow a higher voltage to equal higher current which would equal higher mW power?

 

[HIMNL9]

^ well, this is part of the strange thing ..... in a current regulated circuit, the voltage is ininfluent, cause the circuit keep the current regulated ..... the only possibility that is came me in mind, seeing the difference from my driver and Hallucynogenic one, the value of the big resistor in serie, is that they made this mistake, putting the resistor in serie, and changing the power supply, you also change the voltage and the reference on the op-amp (due to the drop caused from the resistor at different currents through it), and that this influence also the current presetting of the driver, making it basically a "not-so-much-regulated current driver" (pat pending for the driver denomination ..... LOL)

But having only one of them, cannot make any serious comparative tests, only speculations.

 

[Cyparagon]

Using freshly charged 3.0Volt CR2 batteries the Dilda draws 340mA at the switch...
and outputs 162mW..

Using freshly charged 3.6Volt CR2 batteries the Dilda draws 400mA at the switch...
and outputs 212mW...

:wtf: Are you sure it HAS a driver? Maybe they forgot to add silicon to the components.

 

[lazerov]

The old style "dilda" I bought from DX back in March this year has the same driver as Hallucynogenyc's one. Only difference I can see is that the big resistor is not 2,7 Ohm (2R7) but 2,0 Ohm (2R0). Performance is similar to what he reports (relatively stable current levels with different input voltage).

 

[Deleted member 8382]

now there are at least 3 versions of them. Keep posting photos of your dilda drivers please!

@lazerov: once my video is uploaded could you compare your results to it? Maybe we can calculate what the ideal resistor should be and so we can put another one in parallel to optimize it!

Yours,
Albert

 

[sportcoupe]

I have the old style dilda. Here are my test results.

Using 3.0Volt CR2 batteries the Dilda draws 209mA at the switch...
and outputs 169mW..

Using 3.6Volt CR2 batteries the Dilda draws 264mA at the switch...
and outputs 213mW...


Here are picture of the driver board.

 

[lasersbee]

I've made a photo of the driver on mine and also made a video showing how I increase and then decrease the voltage vs an amperimeter and a LPM. Just as I predicted, this seems to be a new driver. Current is regulated to 320mA from 3-4V to 10V. I turned the pot to a 380mA current draw from the batteries and now it seems the power boosted. I'll upload the photos and the video asap (300MB of video >.>)

@HIML9: this is why I called this thread the mistery of the dilda circuit lol. It makes no sense!

@Lasersbee: I do believe your tests, but since I believe mines too, there's only an explanation: the driver is new. Upload some photos of your driver when you're able to

Hey Abert...

I'm not questioning your tests either.... Just stating what I tested..
The only conclusion I have is that yours is a Different Driver than mine..
There were some posts early on... stating that the Dilda Drivers did not
regulate very well if at all..
My Dildas are some of the first ones to come out of DX...
I don't have a Newer one from DX or O-Like.. The only thing I can see
is that the newer ones have a Different Driver...

BTW... My Dilda Drivers all look exactly like sportcoupe's...


@Marcusss... (why would you want none...)
Why would anyone want just one cookie or just one potato chip....


Jerry

 

[lazerov]

Some detailed measurements of current consumption:

Voltage, V-------Current, A
3,0--------------0,12
3,1--------------0,13
3,2--------------0,15
3,3--------------0,16
3,4--------------0,17
3,5--------------0,18
3,6--------------0,19
3,7--------------0,205
3,8--------------0,22
3,9--------------0,23
4,0--------------0,24
4,1--------------0,25
4,2--------------0,26
4,3--------------0,27
4,4--------------0,28
4,5--------------0,29
4,6--------------0,30
4,7--------------0,315
4,8--------------0,325
4,9--------------0,33
5,0--------------0,33
5,1--------------0,33
5,2--------------0,33
5,3--------------0,33
5,4--------------0,33
5,5--------------0,34
5,6--------------0,34
No point to continue, current stays at 0,34A all the way to 8V.
So if you have this driver, using 3,6V li-ions have no use, you are only heating the driver.
I have successfully used the potentiometer to increase current up to 400mA at 6V (more is possible but I don't want to risk the LD).

BTW: When measuring voltage-dependent circuits take into account multimeter wires. Their resistance can significantly distort your measurements.

 

[Deleted member 8382]

Yep, there must be something wrong with ours or Sportcoupe readings. He's reporting significantly lower currents than us! I've also used the pot to set it higher, to 380mA. I've had an error while uploading the video, I'll have to upload it again later. Anyway I think it's similar to lazerov readings.

So the conclusion seems to be that although they can be used, there's no point in using the higher batteries. I also noticed that the driver heats SO MUCH with them!

Yours,
Albert

 

[lasersbee]

Yep, there must be something wrong with ours or Sportcoupe readings. He's reporting significantly lower currents than us! I've also used the pot to set it higher, to 380mA. I've had an error while uploading the video, I'll have to upload it again later. Anyway I think it's similar to lazerov readings.

So the conclusion seems to be that although they can be used, there's no point in using the higher batteries. I also noticed that the driver heats SO MUCH with them!

Yours,
Albert

Agreed....

But only for the new Dilda drivers... the old Dilda drivers
benefit from the 3.6V batteries...

Jerry

 

[bugattidude]

mine's the same as sportcoupe's.. i just cleaned mine off more since its not even in the laser

 

[Deleted member 8382]

Wow, you got it a part! Can you test with a dummy load if the current is the same on the batteries than on the load? If you don't have time for this, can you send it to me or to HIML9 (if he agrees one it ofc)?

Yours,
Albert

 

[HIMNL9]

^ For me is not a problem, but you realize how much my postal service is slow ? ..... i'm in Italy ..... packages from outside can take weeks, for arrive here (IF they arrives intacts) ..... so, it's ok, if the sender is not in hurry .....