The ABSOLUTE Cheapest Proper Diode driver

[icecruncher]

Fooling around with some old LOC reds and some of the $2.50 reds off Ebay. I didn't want to spend for a pricey driver. SO, here is the minimum AMC7135 driver. It will give 350ma on a 10440 AAA or any single cell rechargeable. It doesn't need heatsink and although the diode will get warm after a few minutes it is not pushing the Long Open Can or the cheap Ebay reds to the max so they should last a long time. But it is still very capable of burning.

I haven't seen this posted as assembled this way, they are always shown as a board, when in reality its not needed if you can solder decently. It fits nicely In the back of the aixiz module also, but keep in mind these are VERY SMALL parts. I soldered to the back of the amc7135 for the center post, which makes it a touch easier.

1. Red wire is attached from the Diode positive the right pin of the amc7135 (covered in yellow heat shrink tubing) and to the positive battery terminal
2. First Blue wire goes from the diode negative to the left pin of the amc7135 (covered in yellow heat shrink tubing)
3. Second Blue wire goes from the center pin of the amc7135 to the negative battery terminal.
Cover the connections and DONE

 

[RA_pierce]

I've seen this before. It is a nice solution especially where small size is concerned.
You could also string a couple in parallel to drive something like the Sharp 638 nm multimode diodes at 0.7 A.
Now that I think of it... Maybe I'll try that if I still have some AMC7135s in my spare parts box...

 

[Mattronium]

That AMC7135 also come in a special version for 380mA. I think the AMC7135 is an obsolete part by now, so it might be hard to find.

 

[LuxorLasers147]

I used to do this alot also with the 380A chip. I would suggest using at least a ceramic cap otherwise it wont last you as long!

Also keep in mind that this driver is + continuous, so you have to insulate the module from whatever host you put it in.

 

[icecruncher]

I used to do this alot also with the 380A chip. I would suggest using at least a ceramic cap otherwise it wont last you as long!

Also keep in mind that this driver is + continuous, so you have to insulate the module from whatever host you put it in.

Same notes mentioned already in this thread:

Build a $10 burning laser

$10 Burning Laser pointer 200-300mw 660nm 1 min duty cycle SO you want a cheap burning laser - here it is the least expensive burning laser you can build - only $10 for the parts. BUT, please read this entirely first though! Cost $2.50 Diode. (10x) (Single $3.50)...

laserpointerforums.com

 

[LuxorLasers147]

Same notes mentioned already in this thread:

Build a $10 burning laser

$10 Burning Laser pointer 200-300mw 660nm 1 min duty cycle SO you want a cheap burning laser - here it is the least expensive burning laser you can build - only $10 for the parts. BUT, please read this entirely first though! Cost $2.50 Diode. (10x) (Single $3.50)...

laserpointerforums.com

Nice thread for beguiners
How does that diode compare to the old LPC-826? or is it the same?

 

[icecruncher]

I think the LPC-826 is a little stronger. At 350ma its not pushing either, so really doesn't matter.

Heat is a much bigger issue with the size and although the driver is bulletproof, the diode gets very hot and drops a lot in power the longer you run it. That being said, even your hand holding the laser, will bring down the temp of the head and helps tremendously.

I wouldn't just leave It running on a counter or something.

 

[LuxorLasers147]

I think the LPC-826 is a little stronger. At 350ma its not pushing either, so really doesn't matter.

Heat is a much bigger issue with the size and although the driver is bulletproof, the diode gets very hot and drops a lot in power the longer you run it. That being said, even your hand holding the laser, will bring down the temp of the head and helps tremendously.

I wouldn't just leave It running on a counter or something.

If you put it inside a pen and fully insolate the module it will build up heat very fast no doubt. Also in your pen build the module is sticking out so it doenst have a chance of dispersing the heat through the body.

There is a way to isolate it inside a pen but still let some of the heat out... I´ve built several laser pens using this diode / driver combo and what I did was I used 3 strips of capton tape length wise or 2 strips width wise around the module to create that space. Then you apply artic silver paste all around the module. The areas where the module is exposed will transfer heat better to the pen even though its electrically isolated

 

[icecruncher]

good idea

 

[Drako]

Excuse me, how much voltage does the circuit need?

 

[icecruncher]

Excuse me, how much voltage does the circuit need?

2.7v min

Spec sheet

AMC7135 PDF

Part #: AMC7135. Description: 350mA ADVANCED CURRENT REGULATOR. File Size: 249.3 Kbytes. Manufacturer: ADDtek Corp.

pdf1.alldatasheet.com

 

[Drako]

2.7v min

Spec sheet

Thank you

 

[k4wers]

I used to do this alot also with the 380A chip. I would suggest using at least a ceramic cap otherwise it wont last you as long!

Also keep in mind that this driver is + continuous, so you have to insulate the module from whatever host you put it in.

What Cap Value do you think i need for this project?

 

[Mannitu78]

im using a Led-driver for 4eu from Ali, it does 3A...seems pretty reliable so far. It also has very accurate output-control, because you have to screw that wheels like 10-15 times to get from 0 to 3000ma. Cheapest driver i found so far...still have a bunch in my shelf to try.