Soldering gun

[Elektrotechniker]

SOLDERING STATION, solder iron, 50W, WHOLESALE, NEW on eBay.ca (item 290425192942 end time 21-Apr-10 17:20:05 EDT)

I 've seen this at my local electronics store. I would buy it but got a digital one instead.

 

[lasersbee]

Hey Jerry,

Do you mean definitely don't get a GUN?

I'm sure we all know what you mean but some might get confused.

M

Thanks for catching that Morgan.... Fixed..

@Silvershot....
that is exactly the one we found was Crap and threw out and
should NOT be bought... IMO..

I 've seen this at my local electronics store. I would buy it but got a digital one instead.

SOLDERING STATION, solder iron, 50W, WHOLESALE, NEW on eBay.ca (item 290425192942 end time 21-Apr-10 17:20:05 EDT)

Jerry

 

[Benm]

Its hard for me to judge without ever having handled one of them though. Considering how afforable known-good solutions are, i wouldn't be inclinded to recommend getting one of those though.

The hakko branded solutions seem to be indentical to the aoyue units though, and those are known to be good products.

One hint for those just starting out: make sure your solder is good quality too. No matter what iron you use, if the solder itself is bad, you will not be able to get decent bonds. DX, for example, sells some solder of dubious quality. I'm not sure what their recepi acutally is, but for good results stick with sn/pb near-eutectic (60/40) solder with a good amount of flux core. Solder that has too much tin in it (70/30 or so) will readily melt, but produce dull looking and mechanically weak bonds after cooling down.

I've seen some really bad solder, that even with experience and skill results in brittle bonds... and there is no way to get those right for experienced electronics folks, leaving novice solderers without a chance. A good solder bond should be shiny, and so strong you'd break component leads before breaking the solder joint if you were to forcefully try to yank something out.

 

[blu-ray laser]

Invest in a good Weller Iron.... It will last you a long time and
the Tips are easy to find..
You will also need .020" to .031" diameter Flux Core Solder..

Jerry

AAHHHHH!!! never use flux-core solder for electronics!!! only use rosin-core!!!
(flux=acid)

 

[aXit]

AAHHHHH!!! never use flux-core solder for electronics!!! only use rosin-core!!!
(flux=acid)

There's nothing wrong with flux cored. Flux is more like a heat-activated acid, it removes the oxide coating and other crap from the materials you're bonding with to ensure a good connection. If you're into electronics, flux is an absolute must. I like the pine-based tacky stuff. You are meant to clean it off afterwards though, isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush works well for this.

 

[lasersbee]

AAHHHHH!!! never use flux-core solder for electronics!!! only use rosin-core!!!
(flux=acid)

Flux is any product that removes the oxidation from a joint you will
solder...
For Electronics the Flux in Flux cored solder is called Rosin and has a
very mild Acid in it..
DO NOT use Solder Paste Flux or Flux cored solder used for Plumbing
or sheet metal work because it has high concentrations of ACID and
will eventually corrode your Electronics soldered joint...


Jerry

 

[Benm]

I guess its a matter of terminology. 'Flux' refers to any agent that facilitates soldering, both rosin fluxes but also very nasty ones.

I've seen different names for it in electronics solder, some call it flux core, others rosin core, but as far as i know its all essentially the same stuff. It makes solder bond more easily with surfaces by removing oxide layers and other crud. As long as the solder is -intended for electronics-, its fine.

There is other stuff that people also call 'flux', 'S-39', 'solder paste' and such. This is/was used in plumbing solder, and thats the highly corrosive stuff that will damage your components and soldering equipment. It contains zich chloride and some hydrochloric acid, and is never used in electronics.

 

[Morgan]

Thanks for catching that Morgan.... Fixed..


Jerry

No probs Jerry. Hardly major but nice to be able to help you out for a change...


Incidentally and on topic, Flamingpyro does a nice line in flux syringes...

M

 

[lasersbee]

BTW...

If you are not sure which type of Flux you have.. you can briefly touch
a small amount to the tip of your tongue and if it burns... it is ACID Flux
and not suitable to use for Electronic soldering...

.... don't eat the stuff....

Jerry

 

[kiyoukan]

as far as soldering stations go i been looking at this one Micro Center - Eclipse Enterprise 20W-40W Soldering Station
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0234569
It looks good and the price is good just not sure on quality.

 

[Elektrotechniker]

@Silvershot....
that is exactly the one we found was Crap and threw out and
should NOT be bought... IMO..

Thank god I didn't buy it then

 

[Benm]

as far as soldering stations go i been looking at this one Micro Center - Eclipse Enterprise 20W-40W Soldering Station
Micro Center - Velleman Low-Cost Soldering Station
It looks good and the price is good just not sure on quality.

Its hard to tell from a picture, isnt it?

Doesnt sound like a common brand or model you will find user experiences with.

 

[kiyoukan]

well i go to the store about once a month so i have opened up the box and sat it out but i am not sure what to look for as a "Quality product".

 

[lasersbee]

The problem (just a few) is you can't see if ....

1) the Iron is Grounded ( check the specs)
2) the iron will hold a consistent temperature
3) the quality of the material and plating on the tip
4) the tip will stay tinned
5) how long the tip will last
6) if the handle gets to warm to work with after a certain time.

Jerry

 

[kiyoukan]

what do you mean by grounded you mean 3 pin? like earth ground?

 

[lasersbee]

No... I mean the tip is grounded to avoid electrostatic currents
to flow into your electronic components...
Normally... when the 3rd Ground pin is used that is covered...
but not always...

Jerry