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FrozenGate by Avery

RPL 425 Review with Power Meter Test

electron said:
What was the distance from the aperture of the laser to the measuring sensor?

Distance was approx in the 1-2 foot range during all tests, although distance would have a negligible effect on measured power at any reasonable range anyway.

I tested the temps at the two places we tested and came up with 73 degreed Fahrenheit for the table in the hallway, and 74 F for the walkway/skywalk. I'll get those pictures soon, I swear! (my laziness is already pushing things about a week late at the moment)
 





Wow only 1 degree difference...... lol i guess that’s the difference between being comfortable and almost sweating
 
Here is the setup
testing1copy2pi0.jpg


And my custom lens holder I made out of an old mag light..... All you have to do is bore out the threads and then attach a washer to the top so your lenses don’t fall through

testing3ah3.jpg

testing2uf9.jpg


Thing weighs about 1/2 as much as the RPL though so with proper machine this could be one heck of a heat sync :P
testing4is8.jpg

testing5rb7.jpg
 
What kind of lens are you using for what? I've got several mag lights lying around that I haven't used for years now, since I bought Streamlight, Surefire, Fenix & Brite-Strike.
 
ya i have the same problem these new led's are just way better :P

i am mainly using a convex lense for burning about 12cm from the lense
 
Nice review! +1 ;)

Glad to see another RPL find a happy home. :)

Plus, this is my 1,000 post! :D
 
congrats on your 1000 post count thing of a better way to put it to such use : )

and yes 400mw of green + an lens with a focal point of ~12cm is a great burner :P even creates that UV light you see with the goggles on..... their was a thread about this and some body doing it with the red lasers i had never seen it happen till i owned this and man is it cool you get to that certain point and it just lights up pretty bright even with goggles on : )
 
I want an information please.

The battery in bundle with RPL are "unprotected" right ?

What are the cautions to take for charging and general uses, temperature.......etc ?

Regards
 
Nope the battery is protected, it has a cut-off voltage. This is very important v Lithium batteries as bad things happen to a cell that is overly discharged or overcharged for that matter.

The charger takes forever, 9-10h is what is took charge my battery. But the plus of such a slow trickle charge is that it puts a lot less stress on a battery. While lithium batteries have the capability of being charged at around 1C (in this case at 2.6A) perfectly fine, there is a good chance that lower quality batts puff up and become useless. Explosions of these batteries in the Rc world are not all that uncommon, however in RC they get discharged at 15-20C so the stresses are alot higher on that part as well and quality batts are much more necessary then in the world of lasers.


Thanks
brtaman
 
u are wrong and right.... the battery is un protected but the laser has a built in battery protection circuit : )
 
Those graphs are not telling the full story though. You must use a beam profiler and watch the modes while the power is fluctuating. I guarantee you will not be happy. But if all you care about is maximum brightness and "burning ability" then all is well I suppose. It's kind of like those 170dB cars at dB drag competitions. Sound quality goes out the window while all that's focused on is the ability to make loud noise.
 
f22warzone said:
u are wrong and right.... the battery is un protected but the laser has a built in battery protection circuit : )


Oh IC, I thought that the batt was unprotected, hmm, thanks for the info.

Good to know, since I am thinking of buying some extra batts for the laser, due to the insane charging time. But they seem to last quite a while though, how much runtime you think your getting out of your rpl, should be the same since they both use the same diode?


brtman
 
myles said:
Wow nice review. i wish i was rich enough to buy one of thos!

You are.

You just need to refrain from spending any extra money until the "pot" is large enough to buy one.

Peace,
dave
 
Nordhavn said:
Those graphs are not telling the full story though.  You must use a beam profiler and watch the modes while the power is fluctuating.  I guarantee you will not be happy.  But if all you care about is maximum brightness and "burning ability" then all is well I suppose.  It's kind of like those 170dB cars at dB drag competitions.  Sound quality goes out the window while all that's focused on is the ability to make loud noise.
Can you post some more info on this then, along with some graphs would be nice? sounds like you've done this on an RPL already?
Thanks
 





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