Re: Reke 500RGB
Bummer on your DAC. I hope you get it working soon. I'm thinking of ordering one soon but need to decide on what software first to make sure it's compatible with the DAC.
Yea I am pretty bummed about my DAC... I spent all day troubleshooting it and as far as I can tell it's not actually amping / outputting anything.. I hope Adam will give me some insight in the next couple days and if it's bad I guess I will be waiting another week before I can actually take this bad boy for a test drive.
I spent a while researching them... Your options are fairly limited... The sound card is probably the best bang for your buck.. I think basically any free / cheap software will work with it and most other options are 2-5 times as much and unless your looking to get into QS3 than it doesn't matter much. There are a couple other options at the same price range I have heard iShow is total crap... Just keep in mind the scanner speed when your getting a DAC don't disappoint yourself.
I can confirm pretty much everything in your review. The biggest problem is boy does that mic suck! Could you possibly explain how you added that aux in?
Heh glad to hear my opinion on this unit is shared by you guys
The mic is _diabolical_ I don't understand how they could possibly make it so awful.. They have a sensitivity knob where 0-99% means off basically and 100% means pick up whats basically touching the mic. Whoever designed that should be sacked...
Aux Mod:
Anyway the AUX mod is pretty simple...
You need - to do a proper job:
- A Phillips screw driver
- 4 pieces of wire (a piece of cat 5 works well)
- Soldering iron & Solder
- Heat shrink tube & lighter (or electric tape)
- 3-Conductor Phone Jack 3.5mm / 1/8" from Radio Shack ($5) (2740246A)
- Drill and 1/4" Metal bit.
- Side cutters
- Small zip ties or twist ties
- Wire cutters / Strippers
Take off the 4 corner screws on the front plate of the unit and the middle bottom screw. Remove the four screws at the top of the unit.
The front of the unit should come completely off. Put it somewhere safe where it won't get dirty.
Loosen the top and bottom corner screw at the back of the unit closest to the fan. Pull that side of the case outwards a bit and then wiggle and slide the whole top piece towards the front of the unit (it sticks a bit just work it out).
You now have full access to the internals of the projector. Don't break anything!
You will see a ribbon cable going up from the dip switches this bundle of cable has the wires you need in it. Snip the first few zip ties to get slack on the wires - The right tool helps here you don't want to cut any of the wires!
Trace the mic cables from the mic itself it to where it's actually accessible (the back of the unit is quite tight). There is not a whole lot of slack in the cable so you will need to be able to work with short cables. Cut and strip the two wires where you will have access to both ends of it (If you want to dump the mic completely you will have lots of cable to work with. I wired mine so the mic works if there is nothing plugged into the AUX jack)
Slide on some heat shrink tube and solder Pins 1 and 5 (see the diagram below) to the wires going into the control circuitry.
If you are keeping the mic slide on some tubing and solder pins 2 and 4 to the wires that run to the mic.
Slide the tubing so it covers your joints and then warm it with a lighter unit it it is snug.
Find an accessible spot on the back that doesn't have anything important on it. I chose the spot right next to the power switch (look at my jack picture a few posts back for my location you can put yours anywhere you like) Make sure you don't drill through any wires.
I had my bit slip on my and take off some paint.. I think you might be able to avoid this by putting electric or masking tape over the area you are going to drill at and then drilling through that. Make your hole and watch out for metal turnings (You should wear safety glasses when your eyes are this close to a drill spewing metal shavings - they are sharp and some will go inside the projector) Turn it over and give it a gentle shake to get the metal out.
Now all you have to do is put the jack through the hole and then screw the collar on.
Zip tie the connections like they were before with your wires now and you now have an AUX in.
Oh well he's a semi-crappy video of a beam show from my PJ. I had to put the camera off to the side of the "cone" of the beam since I was only about 6' from the aperture and didn't want to damage the sensor. Hopefully once I get my work room cleaned out this weekend I can get better video from a distance.
I just didn't have my tripod handy when I did my beam shots... Good show though!
$316 was my total & I hope it makes it here as quickly as it did for you guys. Thanks again for posting the pics & vids of how this thing looks :beer:
