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questions about micro boost drive

daguin said:
Just trying to break something loose (mentally). I don't see the problem. :thinking:

Peace,
dave
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me either.. thats why its so confusing.. :(

i sent drlava a pm so i guess ill just have to wait on his reply.. :(
 





Anything bridged on the back?

Is the dummy load OK?

Peace,
dave
 
daguin said:
Anything bridged on the back?

Is the dummy load OK?

Peace,
dave
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First sorry for not multi quoting but , my dummy load went bad while setting 2 microboosts today, the load actually smoked when i set the microboost to its lowest POT setting with all 3 bridges crossed.
 
What? I'm pretty sure what you just suggested is not recommended with a microboost.

On a case neutral diode like a blue or blu you can wire the case pin to the input of the driver. Then wire the diode anode and cathode directly to the output of the driver.

Edit: Typed diode instead of driver :P
 
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Morgan said:
I may be misunderstanding but doesn't the manual say you cannot use the case as a ground with a MicroBoost? This may not be your problem but something to bare in mind.

M
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SpyderFire said:
this is a no no with the microboost. wire the neg of the diode isntead of the case pin.
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Pontiacg5 said:
What? I'm pretty sure what you just suggested is not recommended with a microboost.

On a case neutral diode like a blue or blu you can wire the case pin to the input of the driver. Then wire the diode anode and cathode directly to the output of the diode.
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I'm talking about using the diode case pin with a separate isolated wire going to the driver negative input...

And of course the driver negative output must go to the diode negative pin...
 
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Well Using the diode case pin and the neg on the diode together connected to the neg on the driver (microboost) has resulted in the microboost , boosting wayyy past what the diode can take and killing it. (12x BR) Because the driver doe not get a voltage feedback and tries to boost until its maxed out.

Using only the neg and the pos, of the diode directly to the drivers diode+ and - , has worked.

im speaking only from experience and not just talking of what could happen.
 
no no no, you only connect the case pin to the input of the driver, then connect the negative output of the driver to the diode. The die of the diode is neutral, so the case pin does not effect it.

I would draw a pic, but I am tired. Believe Jay and I, it does work!
 
SpyderFire said:
Well Using the diode case pin and the neg on the diode together connected to the neg on the driver (microboost) has resulted in the microboost , boosting wayyy past what the diode can take and killing it. (12x BR) Because the driver doe not get a voltage feedback and tries to boost until its maxed out.

Using only the neg and the pos, of the diode directly to the drivers diode+ and - , has worked.

im speaking only from experience and not just talking of what could happen.
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Yeah your not reading what I wrote... I'll edit and highlight some key words...
 
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This seems to be causing some confusion, (maybe I'm adding to it :yabbem: ). It does warn in the manual about NOT using the case as a ground though doesn't it?

I'm going for some sleep but expect you all to have worked through this before I awake! I thank you... :D

M
:)
 
ndrew2505 said:
3v, 5v, and 3.7v

3v and 5v rail from modified cpu psu and 16340 and 18650 batts
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daguin said:
Just trying to break something loose (mentally). I don't see the problem. :thinking:


Peace,
dave
Click to expand...

Sorry for the double post here, (and not going to bed already), but I do see a problem here. This is a boost only driver. In previous posts in another thread Dr.Lava has said a maximum of 4.4V is acceptable to run one of these diodes from a MicroBoost, (Jay, do you remember the thread?). What's the maximum current draw available from the PSU and other sources?

I still hope there is another solution but I wouldn't try the 5V setting again until there is clarification. Just a thought.

M
:)
 
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I was just working on a Phaser 'Hot' option and found that the Micro Boost did not hold steady (along with the sound board) over 600mA's using 2 X e2 lithium AA batteries.... (in series)

But a single 14500 Li-Ion battery made it very stable. So I will be re-wiring this one to use 2 X 14500's in parallel...

Kind of scratching my head because I could have sworn that I have used a Micro Boost before with 2 X e2 AA's...
 
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there is nothing bridged and the 5v rail isnt causing the problem. the driver was heating up before i ever used the 5v rail... maybe the dummy load did go bad.. ill have to try another one later tonight after work.
 
i had a similar problem with my v5... i was using a modified atx psu. at the 3v and 5v. setting. it would not work. so i hooked the driver and testload set up directly to my batteries. then low and behold i got readings and set my v5 to 810ma. also i took a razor blade and cleaned up all the areas around all my solder connections. it might look clean but it is such a small area i didn't want to risk it.

michael
 
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Update...

I just tried a Micro BoostDrive with 3 X AAA e2 lithium at 600mA's and the batteries will not hold current.

Strange...

I would think that at 4.5 volts, the lithium AAA's would handle the current.

But it must have to do with current demand and not voltage demand...

Because I then tested with a single Li-Ion battery, and it worked perfectly...

Even a tiny 10280 runs it stable at 600mA's with the test load!

My conclusion is that Li-Ions can give a ton more current than lithium primaries...

I'm thinking that the 3 X AAA in series, although it multiplies voltage to 4.5, does not do anything for capacity at 4.5 volts. So it's just asking for too much current from a AAA battery is what the problem must be...

But this still seems strange, because I believe the FlexDrives can get that kind of current with 2 X AAA in a pen for instance...
 
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