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FrozenGate by Avery

Prices Drop! 501B Kits (Plug-N-Burn add a Module w/ Driver!) Starting at $20ea






ok i went to the beginning of the thread and see the diameter is 12mm as the one dtr sells, i now know where to begin.
 
pucho, great to hear that. Now as far as burning goes, the higher the output power the more burning power you will have. A 300mW laser will burn if focused to as small a beam as possible, but it won't burn like a 445nm 1.7 watt laser will. The latter will burn through black electrical tape in 2 seconds, from one end to the other. A 300mW laser will take much longer than this will. Be careful, however, because a 100mW laser will burn the retina of your eye before you even know it has happened. It will also burn black tape and black balloons, but only if you hold it on the spot for some time. A long time. Great to have you in the forum. If you have any questions you may PM me anytime and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
P.S. now streaming or seeing the beam in the air is a function mostly of the wavelength of the laser. Red lasers are all the way at one end of the visible range and blue lasers are all the way at the other end. Green lasers are almost dead center in your visual acuity. Power will also have a factor in this as well. For red lasers it is better to go with 635nm than 660nm, but it will cost you more money to do that. Blue lasers are in a class of their own because you can get a powerful one for less money than any other color.
 
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i agree with you 100, and i will be getting laser glasses, i am very careful with how i use my ebay cheapiee 301, very responsible, the reason i bought the 301 is for the security key lock, 1.7 watts sounds super strong, i think later on i will look into a blue host with blue 4xxnm xwatts, for now im sticking to the newb approach.
 
thanks paul, i received my laser module today, quick shipping too, faster than ebay, waiting on a response from mrcrouse and my host will be on its way.
 
pucho, yeah, DTR is great. He has always come through for me. I hope your build is uneventful, but remember, the 501B host uses a set screw to hold the module in. A lot of people don't believe in using heat sink compound, but I'm not one of them. I have my own special heat sink compound that I make with diamonds and silicone based heat sink compound. I'm about to finish a build tomorrow that is 405nm in a C11 host with a continuous ground adjustable X-Drive from lazeerer, and I will be using this compound on the build. It should measure out to at least 700mW. Let me know how yours turns out.
 
dang paul that sounds sweet, do you have any pics of the build? also would something along the line of arctic silver be a good cooling compound, got a tube left from my sons xbox cooling of the heatsinks, i also have an old tower with some heatsinks i would like to use in a build, just gotta do the learning process, and teach my son some lessons along the way. also how do you suggest compounding the heatsink/module, im anxious to get tis build started .
 
pucho, don't use arctic silver, arctic alumina, or any type of epoxy thermal adhesive on the module because if anything ever goes wrong with your build it will be garbage. Heat sink compound is usually the consistency of toothpaste. It is very viscous, but stays that way, even when heated to high temperatures that your laser couldn't handle. I will make sure to take some pictures of this build today. It will be time consuming because I'm doing some testing of the advantages of my heat sink compound over none at all. I have posted a few builds on my profile if you would like to visit there and see some. I may have misspoke. If the Arctic silver is not an epoxy ( sets up when you mix two tubes of compounds together ) it is probably okay to use. It just can't set up like any other two part epoxy.
The way I use heat sink compound is to put a plastic lens in a plastic lens holder into the module, then apply the compound evenly over the sides of the module. Be careful as you push the module through the heat sink from the bottom of the heat sink of your host, and when it is even with the top of the heat sink, tighten the set screw and wipe away excess heat sink compound from the heat sink. Then you can remove the plastic lens and replace it with the one you plan to use. Good luck.
 
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this is the thermal compound i was talking about paul
 
pucho, yeah. I got to thinking about it and I've seen this heat sink compound before. It should work fine. I also remembered that the 501B host has a pill pressed into the heat sink, so you will have to put it in through the top. What I do in these type circumstances is to apply the heat sink compound to the inside of the heat sink. Make sure you get it applied as evenly as you can, then wipe the excess off of the outside of the heat sink after you push the module into the host. It ought to work okay.
 
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