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FrozenGate by Avery

Polished Phobos PL450B *PIC HEAVY*

Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
3,163
Points
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Here is a new build I just completed! Many of you seem to love the beam colour and profile of the single mode PL450's and I now see why. Even at ~190 mW the beam is quite visible and the dot beautifully round! :)

The host used here is the stunning PHOBOS from Eudaimonium, which was polished prior to assembly. As such, it has lost some of its lustre in the building process.:( This is particuarly apparent on the tail cap, where I had to sand down the inside of the cap to enable the 2 x AW 16340's to fit in the host. The switch that was supplied also broke and so I had to fashon a new one...:eg:

The build uses a PL450B from DTR, a copper module from AnthoT, a Moh linear at 206 mA from Blord and 2 x AW IMR 16340 batteries.

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This was the old 240 V switch I took apart.

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This is the finished switch in the off and on position respectively. I know it doesnt look all that great, but it actually works much better than the original switch and it has a very good "clicky" action. :)

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It fits snuggly into the cap and although the end protrudes it is not easy to accidentally switch on. I deliberately cut the "clicky" button short, which means it must be pressed just past the black housing to turn on. ;)

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Finally some beam shots! I have often heard that the PL450 is more blue and less purple than the M140, so I took photos of both side by side. From the photos they appear to be identical, but this could be due to the fact that the M140 is being driven hard at 1.8 A, resulting in its output shifting to longer wavelengths. The Saik is using a 445 diode and G2 lens and hence the greater divergence. In the last three photos steam from an iron was used to enhance the beams. :san:

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Good choice on the diode for that host... My God man what happen to that switch it looks like you used the sAik laser to cut it out of what ever housed the switch.

In either case love that polished Eud. host looking good. Nice beam shots.
 
Haha to be honest I tried, but the plastic just melted and ran into the line I was cutting! Had to use a knife in the end...not so pretty but effective! ;) beer
 
Good polish on the host. You will need handgloves to handle the laser. :)
Great build, the PL450 diode is one of my favourite diode.
 
Awesome laser! I think that host would look amazing with some knurling!

Interesting idea, but I think that would require some special tools? Maybe Eudiamonium will see this thread and try it out...?:thanks: :beer:


Good polish on the host. You will need handgloves to handle the laser. :)
Great build, the PL450 diode is one of my favourite diode.

Thanks! Yup youre right, eveytime I use it, I have to rub off all the finger prints...:crackup::tinfoil: Perhaps I should invest in some cotton gloves! :beer:
 
Great laser, love the beamshots.

And yes, AFAIK, you need a mill to do knurling
 
Interesting idea, but I think that would require some special tools? Maybe Eudiamonium will see this thread and try it out...?:thanks: :beer:

Hey man, awesome looking laser. Be careful not to scratch the polished aluminium, it really shows.

I know, I'd also love to be able to do knurling, but I am yet to get myself a knurling cutter. It's a bit difficult to come by locally, and it's a bit pricey.

Don't worry, it's on my "to do" list, sooner or later :p

Sorry about the original switch. I must change the source of those, these DX clickies are unreliable as hell.
 
This came out beautifully. The host looks great polished. It would benefit from a clear anodize. This would provide scratch resistance as well.
 
Hey man, awesome looking laser. Be careful not to scratch the polished aluminium, it really shows.

I know, I'd also love to be able to do knurling, but I am yet to get myself a knurling cutter. It's a bit difficult to come by locally, and it's a bit pricey.

Don't worry, it's on my "to do" list, sooner or later :p


Thanks, Im especially glad you like it! :)

I definitely think adding some decorative knurled sections to the Phobos could be really interesting! :drool:
BTW I found a great thread with some knurled, albeit commercial cree, hosts written by the traveller. :beer:


This came out beautifully. The host looks great polished. It would benefit from a clear anodize. This would provide scratch resistance as well.

Thanks! Yup maybe for the next one. Can you polish up a clear anodize to the same extent? :beer:
 
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Jeffrey here linked me some cheap knurling tools on eBay so I guess we should see some knurling really soon.

I'll let you all know how it goes.

Grainde, you can see billg519's channel on youtube, he has an excellent anodizing tutorial which should explain how it's all made and what does it do.
 
Jeffrey here linked me some cheap knurling tools on eBay so I guess we should see some knurling really soon.

I'll let you all know how it goes.

Grainde, you can see billg519's channel on youtube, he has an excellent anodizing tutorial which should explain how it's all made and what does it do.

Yeah I saw it thanks, but I was just wondering if it will polish up as well once it has been clear anodized? :thinking: :)

Damn that thing is sexy, great job man!! +:beer:

:thanks:much appreciated! :beer:
 
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Yeah I saw it thanks, but I was just wondering if it will polish up as well once it has been clear anodized? :thinking: :)


Well, if you polish it first and then anodize it, it should stay mirror polished and protected against oxidation and scratches, as far as I know.

I'm not really 100% sure of the effects of clear anodizing on mirror-polished metal. Perhaps Bill can provide some insight?
 
What I do is get the aluminum to a mirror polish, clean and degrease without scratching, and then anodize. You could do a thinner anodize build by anodizing for somewhat less time. After all, you don't need a thick layer for dye to penetrate into.
The best plan is to do some test pieces, using the same material as your host was machined from. Different alloys anodize differently, some not very well. Aluminum castings can be a pain to anodize as they can be prone to smutting and may need a desmut wash in nitric acid prior to the anodize. (Not the safest stuff to have to mess with, and watched by the feds.) You can get a clear anodize that is glassy mirror smooth. A color anodize can also be glassy mirror smooth. I anodized a battery barrel black high gloss and you would think that it is made of glass. One thing that helps a bit is the Caswell anodize sealer, as it seems to contain a wax.

For more info on the suitability of different alloys for anodizing, see :

http://anodizing.co.nz/aluminium-alloy-anodising-anodizing
 
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