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FrozenGate by Avery

Please Help Diagnose This Battery Problem!!

I see it, but can't read the meter.

Really don't feel like watching 8 minutes of that either...
 





I move it to do the best I can. If you don't want to watch it, then dont. I tell you what the meter says just incase. But feel free to not watch if you don't want to! :)
 
I wonder...

Is it possible for you to use the edit button, instead of double and triple posting?

Yet you don't want to post relevant info, such as what the meter reads.

Go figure....
 
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Sorry, you guys are posting here fairly quickly so I figured it wouldnt get read if I kept editing the same post. I said what the meter read. :/

Im trying to contribute by posting a video of something that no one could explain. You didn't chirp in earlier. As I said before, if you dont like it then, just quietly ignore it. I would like hearing what the other people, who are interested, think about it.

Thanks
 
Man, I almost want to go dig up every single post you've ever made that complains about some irrelevant little detail instead of "quietly ignoring it"

Also, something YOU couldn't explain. Not something no one could explain.
 
The fast pulsing you were getting there is different then the long flashing in the first video you posted.
 
I made the thread for that exact reason. I kind of thought it was expected that I didn't know whats going on.

The point of the video is that the LG cells could not hold the amperage where the AWs could.
 
@DTR, Yeah I noticed when I put the tailcap back on, it was slower pulsing. I put that in the video towards the end.

Check it :)

I am baffled why it strobes different depending on the tailcap

I edited this just for you man.
 
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I may not have the experience to relate what I suspect but you may have two issues you are experiencing. With my DMM if I try to read a current draw of more than 2A I start hearing a hissing noise and the current drops just like in your video. I think that AW test is pulling 1.8A. On the other test since the voltage is lower it will be drawing more current and it may be going over 2A and you DMM may just be freaking out like mine does.:beer:
 
Why the strobe then? and why does it not do that with the tailcap on but rather the slow strobing?
 
DTR said:
I may not have the experience to relate what I suspect but you may have two issues you are experiencing. With my DMM if I try to read a current draw of more than 2A I start hearing a hissing noise and the current drops just like in your video. I think that AW test is pulling 1.8A. On the other test since the voltage is lower it will be drawing more current and it may be going over 2A and you DMM may just be freaking out like mine does.:beer:
Click to expand...

Most of the time this is because you are not using the right terminal on the meter. Most of the time there is a low current terminal for voltage, resistance and continuity and a high current terminal for reading amperage. There's usually a little message printed on the meter with something like "10A 30 Sec. MAX every 10 minutes"
 
If I want to test a current draw over 2A I have to use my bench supply. If I use my DMM it freaks out and when the current starts falling it will do the fast strobe because the driver is getting insufficient current. But like I said maybe somebody with better electrical experience can confirm this. I did not look on the specs when I bought my DMM but I am sure that there is a max Amp rating for that setting.:beer:
 
I think you might have a current issue and a heating issue. When you have the meter in series it looks like more current is passing through, hence the quicker heat up to strobe. With your tail cap it passes less current so it takes longer to overheat the driver. check you tail cap spring and thread. What do you guys think?
 
Is there a "mini shunt" in it maybe? (The DMM)

On my DMM I have a 0-500mA range and a 10A max. common and the voltage diode ohm port. I used the 10A max range
 
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