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FrozenGate by Avery

*PICS ADDED!!* Sipik 98 4 Amp Flashlight Mod!

I read that the XM-L T6's go tops at 3A, but as you said it can suck in 4A...

I don't know what the stock drivers pump out, but I wanted to put in some of my own drivers that output 2.8A. →Should I do this, or do you think the stock drivers are good enough ( I don't mind pimping out my flashlight :eg: ) 17mm 2800mA 5-Mode Memory Regulated LED Driver Circuit Board for Flashlight (DC 3~4.5V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

Also this driver I want is 17mm, do you think that will fit in the sipik sk98's pill comfortably?
-THANK YOU! :wave:
 





Hey Bacon XM-L T6's can actually go to 6 A if properly heat sinked. The XM-L2's can as well and they are more efficient with a higher working voltage Vf for the same current. 3 A's is recommended as a limit if you have an XML/ XM-L2 on an Alu star in a torch with std heat sinking.

The driver I have used in several build's is a 3 A one from Kaidomain. I particularly like it because you can select modes and generally choose High/ Med/ and Low. The low is really low like a firefly light, but I actually find that very useful. The driver you linked is fine, but I prefer that little bit extra and in my experience Kaidomain has always shipped more quicly.:beer:
 
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If you want to change drivers you will have to do something like what I did because the stock driver is 20mm and those drivers are 17mm. If you use that little pill thing not only will you increase mass to the pill it will make mounting the driver that much easier! Look at my post and you can see what I mean.
 
Oh bugger I was sure it was 17 mm, sorry bacon! :o

Im sure Awillis' method will work, but if you want to see other options have a look here I put a 17 mm driver into a Poppas light that originally had a 20 mm driver. :beer:
 
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that is a good trick only problem being we don't have any good us coins like that to make it work! we have the $1 piece but you would have to grind the sides down quite a bit! but maybe you could us or find a copper washer or something.
 
Shweet! looks like ill be getting the kaidomain driver (are they a pay→forget→suprise like DX?)
The reviews on it say the s2 s3... bridges are incorrectly labeled :eek:
I just want Hi-Med which looks like I bridge S4 hope it works..

I actually am new to this, so yall ever use "ground" on the driver?
Isn't most flashlights case negative? Would you ground it to case?
And where exactly does the majority of heat come off these drivers?
------
Wow 6A, I want me and my pops to be able to use them practically withouht burning our hands off :eg: and getting custom copper hosts..
 
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Shweet! looks like ill be getting the kaidomain driver (are they a pay→forget→suprise like DX?)
The reviews on it say the s2 s3... bridges are incorrectly labeled :eek:
I just want Hi-Med which looks like I bridge S4 hope it works..

You get a piece of paper which explains which contacts to connect.;)

I actually am new to this, so yall ever use "ground" on the driver?
Isn't most flashlights case negative? Would you ground it to case?
And where exactly does the majority of heat come off these drivers?

Careful with these as they are continuous positive.. I found that out blowing a $100 500 mW Mitsubishi diode...Just wire the diode up as described and wire the contacts to the board and youll have no probs. If you try to do case negative to the negative contact on the board youll bypass the driver and it will be direct drive.:beer:
 
Ok thanks a million you guys! I read some CPF threads and it looks like illuminationsupply has some 8xAMC7135 from my own country.

They have so many graphs of the xm-l t6 being driven at diff Amps. It looks like 3.5A is the safe spot. Without crazy heat sinking.

I also learned how easy it is to stack chips to add currnt to the driver
courtesy of these guys Driver stacking Ill update on how it all goes.:wave:
 
Sorry for double post; here is my ad

1.) Bought 3A driver
2.) Arctic silver
3.) 3400mAh Panasonic
4.) Weller WES51

15s68fc.jpg

2118ftd.jpg

11ryvro.jpg


Put all the stuff together with hot glue on the driver, seal really tight, etc...
Turn it on... IT DOESN'T ******* DO ANYTHING
I am so pissed right now, I know it works and can feel it hitting the spring. My obvious guess is that the beefy stock wires have a poor connection to one another.

Well I'm still in my work clothes, and now its getting late. I'll restrain myself from throwing it against the wall until my day off... I can appreciate what you wen't though! :D



-edit---
Stayed up extra late and I was being a dumb arse and forgot that my fancy plastic ring isolate batt(-)
Just soldered a wire to the case and it works like a boss
iqv3q1.jpg


do{
(grainde ++ rep)
while 1==1};
 
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Hey great work Bacon, glad to see it all worked out! Will you be adding any extra AMC chips? Feel free to post some pics of the light and maybe some beam pics;), would be great to see it all working! :beer: +1
 
I just want to get this sucker put together for my pops..
My second sipik has shoddy de demoing via razor, and I plan on getting another 3AMP AMC and adding a few more chips to get the current to 3.5-3.6 which is said to be at peak AMP-to-lumen. I will either stack the chips or rig it to the star..
---
Could I buy these chips, or harvest elsewhere?

The other pill looks like hell ;)
 
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Better off buying them. You can take them off other boards but you risk damaging them. Ive done it before and Id say I had an 80 % success rate. They are really cheap if you buy them from Kaidomain, DX or Fasttech and its a lot simpler. :beer:
 
Thanks for the rep!

I've been busy at BLF, talking about various sorts of lights. :)

I'm glad that the flashlight modding has been going well for everyone, and thanks Bacon for sharing your mod! +1 :beer:
 
Thanks for the rep!

I've been busy at BLF, talking about various sorts of lights. :)

I'm glad that the flashlight modding has been going well for everyone, and thanks Bacon for sharing your mod! +1 :beer:

Thanks guys.
I learned about lasers a while ago from CPF
Now I learn about flashlights from LPF:D

This has been a great thread!
Before the arctic silver I tried to sink it with solder and a blowtorch!
Lets just make it known that a blowtorch isn't a heatgun :whistle:

+1 for those chips
 





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