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FrozenGate by Avery

PHR Laser build






yep..The actual module is fully in the heatsink. the focusing part is right even with the actual heatsink, so you can still focus it. I like it :) Does indeed make it easier to focus!

Also, i did buy that switchable end. I have a 2AA maglite yes. I also added metal so it slides in harder, and to make sure it stays in good, i applyed some JB weld where the rounded heatsink meets the flashlight, small amount so you really cant notice it. Will just help make sure it stays in. :) Else, It did still turn on so it works.
 
Sorry tomorrow the JB weld needs to set :P what to show? No matches as we don't own them. I burned a candle with my green laser in one second. It was a used "trick" candle. They spark.
 
Heh, I was gonna say Nite-ize has AA mag Kroll switches.

Also, keep in mind, you can remove that front bezel ring, it is threaded on there (the ring that says mag AA and holds the lens and reflector in the head)

Perhaps, to keep your module from sliding out, you could cut a groove in it, put a split-ring in it that doesn't fit through the front end, and put the bezel over it.

Still learning how to use mspaint, after microsnot changed it all around...
magAAsplitRing.jpg
 
I'll try to get a video of this sometime this weekend...The JB-weld did help with the end, I had my friend use it while i used my green one and it held up fine. I'll have to keep this build in mind in case I ever get some other type of laser with the similar module :)

Took it apart today, so i can hardwire it for that Switchable tailcap. So I thought id test it. 3V (2AA) on my meter recorded 119.8mA. I told Drlava to do 120mA for the driver. This laser runs yes, at 120mA. So that's good. Shows this driver works greate because when it was 2.4V it said 118.9mA
 
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Well. This project is going to have to be put on hold until i get the 300mw laser. Due to past issues with the laser fitting on the driver, the leads (both) broke off like paper. Rendering the diode, useless. I may try to fix it...but might just trash it and just get the 300mw.
 
laserboystuart said:
thats unlucky, i feel your pain i broken countless diodes..

stuart :)
Click to expand...

This is my third one from the same guy. Only thing I can think of to fix it, is hard, but to JB weld or any other superglue it on and hope it stays contact. You cant solder because its flushed with the diode!

I ment a 6X bluray diode. Online it says I can run it safe CW at 190mA. Yet another guy said 6X can run safe at 280mA CW

kevinmassey, I have a 300mW Bluray in mail and a 300mW estimated...Red sled in the mail. At least I got my greeny to play with :D
http://hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=58
I was told by Dr.Lava safe CW would be 280mA. However, ReNNo ran them fine at 420mA.
 
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If your meaning to get 300mw out of your 6x it's probly not gonna happen... I think most of 'em run around 200mw. You might be able to with a 405-g-1 glass lens.
 
jbtm said:
I have a 300mW Bluray in mail and a 300mW red estimated...
Click to expand...

is that an 8x or better because nothing below that can achieve 300mW safely and the 300mW red im guessing is the LPC-815.

EDIT: @kevinmassey, even with a 405-G-1 lens i still think that it would not be safe for the diode, i dont think the can be pushed that hard without sacrificing some of its life.

stuart :)
 
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