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FrozenGate by Avery

Phlatlight Red LED From the Casio Projector Burns Stuff!

The basical idea is simple ..... it already have a lens set that is designed for concentrate it with a decent angle (no need to burn the opponent, so a straight "beam" is not needed ..... also, a "cone shaped" output will be more efficent)

So, i just thoughd ..... why don't use it with his own lens, and hook it to a mosfet PWM driver set up on the same frequencies of the "light dazzlers" that someone sell ? ..... double effect, temporarily blinding effect, and "dazzle" effect in one device .....

Only, i have no access to machines, so all the work must be done "handy" and this is taking a bit of time ..... i planned to use an "SC700" case (a small plastic projectbox, with dimensions almost like a cigarette pack), and at least a pair of Li-Ion cells ..... it does not need to have a long duty cycle, it's not a torch ..... being planned for be used only in emergency situations .....

And, i'm also thinking about add a "strobo" flashing function (the usual 3 quick flashes, spaced 2 seconds), for signal purpose, but i don't know if i can fit all the circuitry in the space, using discrete components ..... maybe is time to blow off the 3 cm of dust from my old PIC programming manual :p :D
 





Gryphon said:
Do you need to use all three wires on each connection, or are you
simply doing so to distribute how much current each wire gets.
Click to expand...
I think that using all three pins is absolutely essential. Right now I'm using alligator clips to connect it all together, and I can feel them getting warm/hot at this high current! Also in a constant current configuration, if one pin were to fail, then the other two pins would sill carry the current and save the LED.
 
HIMNL9 said:
And, i'm also thinking about add a "strobo" flashing function (the usual 3 quick flashes, spaced 2 seconds), for signal purpose, but i don't know if i can fit all the circuitry in the space, using discrete components ..... maybe is time to blow off the 3 cm of dust from my old PIC programming manual :p :D
Click to expand...

Bedazzler - DIY non-lethal weaponry has some basic source code and schematics you could adapt.
 
FireMyLaser said:
I think that using all three pins is absolutely essential. Right now I'm using alligator clips to connect it all together, and I can feel them getting warm/hot at this high current!
Click to expand...

Yeah i kind of figured as much when i saw the burn marks in the 2 X 4 :p
 
Could you carve up that circuit board and stick it in a flashlight? I think a multi-hundred lumen red light would be really cool.
 
ossumguywill said:
Could you carve up that circuit board and stick it in a flashlight? I think a multi-hundred lumen red light would be really cool.
Click to expand...

Sorry to say you that, but no, this is not possible ..... this is not a component soldered on a board, the whole metal plate, including the thermal sensor and the connector, IS the LED body ..... trying to detach it from the plate, can end only in destruction of the chip.
 
I think if you are slow and easy you could mill all around the and bring the size down some but you will lose power handling ability, but you can machine some of the copper base away at the outer edges.



HIMNL9 said:
Sorry to say you that, but no, this is not possible ..... this is not a component soldered on a board, the whole metal plate, including the thermal sensor and the connector, IS the LED body ..... trying to detach it from the plate, can end only in destruction of the chip.
Click to expand...
 
^ uhm, probably you can take away the connector part (cutting it squared), and maybe round a bit the corners, but must pay a lot of attention ..... if you look carefuly, the copper plate is not an added part, is the base of the body (where the chip is directly soldered) and also one of the contacts ..... then there is a thin layer of insulant, probably resin, and a second layer of metal, where they have cut the tracks ..... all the wires from the rows looks soldered to this second layer ..... and then there's a spacer that hold a very thin layer of glass, for protect the chip .....

Any overstress or the use of wrong tools, can end in "peeling" off some of the conductive layer, or breaking the glass ..... sure is possible, but i bet is not a work to do "handy" or at hobby level ..... must be cut perfectly, refined all the cut corners for avoid short circuit with the plate, then resoldered a decent wire to the upper conductive layer (about this, the two rectangular spaces on the sides of the chip can be probably used, cause the free one is from the plate, where the one covered with a piece of kapton tape, is connected to the upper layer)
 
Besides, what whould be the point of installing this LED in a flashlight?

Even if you stuck it in something has big as a 6D maglite, i bet it would get so hot you couldn't be able to hold it within a minute.
 
This would be one of those "Wow!" things that is used simply for bragging rights and showing off.









And it would be so awesome to have one.
 
Benm said:
Besides, what whould be the point of installing this LED in a flashlight?

Even if you stuck it in something has big as a 6D maglite, i bet it would get so hot you couldn't be able to hold it within a minute.
Click to expand...

What would be the point of NOT installing this led in a flashlight?:D It's just like building a laser.... Basically pointless but lots of fun :wave:
 
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