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Check out these 18 amp diodes

Flaminpyro

Flaminpyro

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A friend of mine picked these up yesterday and asked me to make him a heatsink, he's seen my work :yh: they are 18 amp continous draw LED's and can be pulsed to 100 amps. maby in a couple days I'll get the controller finished. these sucka's are going to draw 54 amps at full throttle, I'm thinking maby a pelter between the copper bar and the fins. anyone know where I can get a 400 to 600 watt pelter ?

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heres a shot of the completed heatsink unit with LED's attached.

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this unit is going to make a great dance light with the right controller :beer:

Peace All Pyro... :eg:
 





Hopefully most of that energy goes into light rather than heat. Ironically, the peltier unit itself will need a lot of amperage to operate as well.
 
If you're mounting them in a row, i suggest you to not use a single peltier cell, but a pair of ones in parallel (if you have a lot of amperes available :p), or also better, in series, so you can limit the current to the one needed from a single cell, and just double the voltage (a thermostatic unit that works at 28 volt is a common schematic, and can also be find more easy than 12 volt units, cause all the machines at industrial level works mainly with 28V, instead 12V)

Also, a thermostatic unit prevent you from condensation and overcooling risks ..... just set it for 20 degrees, and forget it (also if with this powers, i suggest you to add a decent fan to that finned part, for continuous usage :D)

Only (but i suppose you already know this :D), be sure that there is no irregularity between the copper bar and the finned part, where the cells are posed ..... not just cause the thermal conduction is better, but also cause the peltier cells are, basically, ceramic thin layers (i mean, it's too late when you assemble them and hear a little "crick" sound, don't think ? ..... :p :D)
 
thanks for the link I think I will use the 60x60mm TEC or maby two 40x40mm side by side that is what will fit the hetsink. I have a programed RGB controller but it's only good for 5 amps per channel so I'll have to add some big mosfets inbetween. I'm going to have to run this right off of lead acid cells. will post some pics when it's going.

ionlaser555 said:
Ive seen a 520 watt 60mm X 60mm TEC i think , Nice setup by the way will look nice when working :)

Gigantic 62mm - 545 Watt Thermoelectric Peltier Cooler - eBay (item 310156525041 end time Jul-29-09 13:00:00 PDT)

they use 0-16 volts @ 0-32 amps
Click to expand...
 
A peltier element doesn't make sense for cooling a high-power LED, you just increase the waste heat even more. Just a copper heatspreader and a fan is enough.
 
Thanks for the input DR. that is what I have now so that's the way we'll run it.:tinfoil:

dr-ebert said:
A peltier element doesn't make sense for cooling a high-power LED, you just increase the waste heat even more. Just a copper heatspreader and a fan is enough.
Click to expand...
 
If you do end up using a peltier, you're going to need a much larger cooling heatsink. It would be a good idea though to keep the diode temperatures down to increase the lifespan of those pricey LEDs ;)
 
This should consume around 200W and maybe throw out 10k lumens. It'll make your eyes water
sunglasses-smile-round.gif
Pictures!!

EDIT: looking again, I'd get a much larger heatspreader, unless you've got a turbine to supply the cooling air flow.

EDIT2: are these color or white light LEDs?
 
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These are a red a green a blue LED, each can sink 18 amps a piece, yes it will be blinding when I get it running. pictures at 11:00...

dr-ebert said:
This should consume around 200W and maybe throw out 10k lumens. It'll make your eyes water
sunglasses-smile-round.gif
Pictures!!

EDIT: looking again, I'd get a much larger heatspreader, unless you've got a turbine to supply the cooling air flow.

EDIT2: are these color or white light LEDs?
Click to expand...
 
maby something like whats in your avatar :whistle: as each one of these cost more than a 8X LD...

MarioMaster said:
If you do end up using a peltier, you're going to need a much larger cooling heatsink. It would be a good idea though to keep the diode temperatures down to increase the lifespan of those pricey LEDs ;)
Click to expand...

edit; well now it's this far along just got the controller hooked up, no power yet, now there are parts from my junk box, an electric range, a VCR, and a computer as well as the RGB controler, in this setup.
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edit; only running at 1.1 to 2 amps total at the moment ( it can eat 54 amps) and it's still realy bright and makes the most beautiful colors all over the walls and ceiling. I can't wait to hook up some 60 amp mosfets to this controller and get rid of these power eating limiting resistors ! :evil:

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can you guess what this is ? theres only two.
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Diodes & heatsink are a bit bigger than I thought at first, the keyboard & mouse give a good size comparison (the KB is visible in the second picture as well, but hiding a bit, so it didn't quite register with me). Give it a go! Once the heatsink gets so hot that you can't touch it for a second, it's time to switch the power off again...
 
Those are some monster diodes. Keep us posted when you get then running full tilt :evil:
 
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