Osram PL530 - Tiny 530nm OPSL

[diachi]

Hey, thanks for introducing this laser. The output is super nice. Here's a picture of the laser running. I printed the driver (conductive ink) in-house and ran it without a fan with a 9 v power supply. The LM317s get super hot even with two heatsinks on them. I had to add a fan to cool it down. Works very nice.

Quick question:
If I want to do RGB holography, what red and blue lasers are out there similar to the OPSL coherence specs and also same size?

View attachment 65495

Looking good! Try dropping the input voltage on your LM317s to ~5-6V. Will help tremendously with the heat. Diode forward voltage is no more than 2.2V or so, plus the regulator drop of ~2.5V. Half of your power input is getting turned into heat at 9V input.

It's the heater. I added a POT for the heater, somewhere in the middle it works really nice. At the wrong temp. you might excite differentlaser modes like TE20, Isaw it myself.

Which is interesting as mine didn't seem too bothered about heater settings, never did put it on an LPM but visually it seemed fine. Could be I never went through the full range on the pot. Never did follow up on that.

There are some three color modules that also use the green OPSL used in this thread, but they don't line up properly from what I've heard. When shooting full color holography your lasers need to line up like a good RGB white laser does, but you then shoot each color separately. It can be very daunting to get outcomes that look reasonable.

The R/B components of those aren't OPSL so the specs aren't nearly as good as with the green.

 

[paul1598419]

There you go. That is why I suggested HeNe and argon as red and blue for holography. Getting all three colors into a small package with enough coherence length to be useful could cost you a great deal of $$$$.

 

[kecked]

If they ever make red and blue...and yellow mini opsl for 30.00 like this green I’d be in heaven. It isn’t likely. I have the rgb model. It’s just diodes for r and b.

Your best setup is likely argon/hene with pcaom.

 

[continuum54]

Hi to all.

We are working on color holography (http://www.holographypro.com/en/gallery-eng/gallery/gallery-1) and tried to buy Osram PL530 on ebay.
But US customs did not allow dispatch.

Maybe someone knows where you can buy this module is not in the US?

 

[kecked]

Considering you live in the Mecca of lasers you should be able to source all you need right there. Most of the crystals are grown in your home town.

 

[holokidd]

Hi to all.

We are working on color holography (http://www.holographypro.com/en/gallery-eng/gallery/gallery-1) and tried to buy Osram PL530 on ebay.
But US customs did not allow dispatch.

Maybe someone knows where you can buy this module is not in the US?

I have sent plenty to Germany? Pm me if you want some

 

[diachi]

Is that mounted to and running off of a power bank? I like it!

 

[holokidd]

Is that mounted to and running off of a power bank? I like it!

Yes it is , will run for hours on it !

 

[paul1598419]

If your packages are not getting through US customs it is likely because you are on a watch list. The way around that is to ship rthem though a different account. I'm sure you can figure pout what I'm trying to tell you.

 

[holokidd]

If your packages are not getting through US customs it is likely because you are on a watch list. The way around that is to ship rthem though a different account. I'm sure you can figure pout what I'm trying to tell you.

I haven’t had any problems on my end ?

 

[Dragonsired1]

Hi everyone,
so I have this strange issue. I apply around 458 mA to diode and around 58mA (around 2V) to heater. But when I power it for more than couple seconds diode starts to dimm and colour shifts to yellow-ish... That scared me so I quickly disconnected the laser. Laser is on heat sink. Does anyone here ever encountered this behaviour? Is it possible I can destroy it?
Thx

 

[Anthony P]

It may take a few seconds to stabilize. Heater needs CV control, not current control. Try adjusting heater voltage 0.1V at a time.

 

[mojo_1234]

Have found some excellent instructions on how to run the heater:

http://hololaser.kwaoo.me/laser/PL530.html

 

[holokidd]

Hi everyone,
so I have this strange issue. I apply around 458 mA to diode and around 58mA (around 2V) to heater. But when I power it for more than couple seconds diode starts to dimm and colour shifts to yellow-ish... That scared me so I quickly disconnected the laser. Laser is on heat sink. Does anyone here ever encountered this behaviour? Is it possible I can destroy it?
Thx

Your givin The heater too much voltage/current drop it down start from zero ,and start from there, as you watch the output stop on the brightest pulse should be below 2 V

 

[masood1234]

Hey guys,

Received my tiny Osram OPS laser from eBay last week and managed to get it up and running. These things are tiny, real interesting piece of engineering. These aren't you're typical Nd:YAG/YVO4 green; they use a semiconductor chip pumped by an 808nm diode instead. The result is a very compact form factor and fantastic beam specs. Perfect TEM00, 0.3mm diameter at aperture (4-8mRad divergence) and up to 100mW or so output power. One of the nicest beams I've seen out of a solid state laser, arguably better than the beam from my old Coherent Compass 115M.

Here's what they look like (hand for scale):

And here's what's inside:

Note: The labels on this diagram are somewhat inaccurate. The LD is 808nm, the part labeled "DBR" is the OPS chip. Everything else should be fairly accurate.

I opted to buy one without the driver seeing as they were $40 cheaper, so I had to build my own. Not much is required, just ~450mA constant current for the diode and 1.5-2.0V for the crystal heater. Used a pair of LM317s. Decided to go with SMD resistors for the current setting so had to use 4 as a single 0805 wouldn't handle the power, the less holes I have to drill the better! Here's the result:

Schematic:

Board:

To make the PCB I used the toner transfer method:

Transfer wasn't the best, but it turned out good enough the first time so I rolled with it.

Board etched, toner removed and tinning added:

Components soldered (turns out I missed an SMD resistor, and left the indicator LED off because I didn't see a need for it in the end):

Etch was done using hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide.

Mounted to a heatsink with flying leads and a little breakout board sort of thing. The leads from the driver were too thick to solder direct to the module, so I used this approach. AA battery for scale.

Light! Fired up perfectly the first time. Diode current is ~365mA.

Spot at the other end of my living room:

Obligatory beamshot and a closeup:

Hope you all enjoyed, feel free to ask any questions!

What are the values of the 4 resistors in parallel?

 

[Unown (WILD)]

Keep in mind that old threads may not be the best place to expect a reply from.