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FrozenGate by Avery

Osram PL530 - Tiny 530nm OPSL

Sorry, I can't think of anything else that would cause your issues. Have you ever tried a dummy load with your driver. If it powers dummy load it will power diode. Starting to think you may have a dud. Too bad, it is one of the few diode that has beam specs suitable for holography.
 





Anthony P said:
Sorry, I can't think of anything else that would cause your issues. Have you ever tried a dummy load with your driver. If it powers dummy load it will power diode. Starting to think you may have a dud. Too bad, it is one of the few diode that has beam specs suitable for holography.
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Yes tried through dummy and it's ok. Well I'm super sad as I paid a lot for this unit but trying to deal with seller :) anyway thank you for your suggestions
 
Hello Dragonsired,

some weaks ago, I tried to get a LM317 Driver running with such an experimental board. It did not work. Than I noticed, that 2 of 4 wire connectors were dead!

After using copper wire, everthing works fine.


best regards

Edgar
 
reloader45 said:
Hello Dragonsired,

some weaks ago, I tried to get a LM317 Driver running with such an experimental board. It did not work. Than I noticed, that 2 of 4 wire connectors were dead!

After using copper wire, everthing works fine.


best regards

Edgar
Click to expand...
Hi,
I checked continuity and there's no problem. I don't think it's necessary to use solid copper wire. And as said previously, current is flowing, voltage is correct on PTC.
 
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Hello,

don´t get me wrong, the connectors were broken inside, but you could not see that. So it is safer to use massive copper wire.
When you have voltage and current, than this is another problem.

best regards

Edgar
 
Anthony P said:
I used that exact circuit for one project, only with a pot to vary diode current. As I recall, the circuit acts funny until input voltage is at least 7 or 8 volts. I run mine off a 9V 2A regulated wall adapter.
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Minimum input should be ~4.5V (LM317 dropout, current sense drop and diode drop, 1.25+1.25+~2.00V). Think I was running mine at around 5-6V.
 
I saw from other forum from holokid it can run with 500-800 mA which is twice the recommended current???. After measuring voltage across diode (powering 400 mA) it was around 2.8 V which is a lot more than max 2.2 V it should be running at given current. From this point I think there's not much else I can do or try because it must be smth with diode...
 
Dragonsired1 said:
I saw from other forum from holokid it can run with 500-800 mA which is twice the recommended current???. After measuring voltage across diode (powering 400 mA) it was around 2.8 V which is a lot more than max 2.2 V it should be running at given current. From this point I think there's not much else I can do or try because it must be smth with diode...
Click to expand...

The thing is confusing. Mine starts emitting beam only at 450 mA with very weak power (few milliwats or lower). Then beam disappears at 500+. Then appears again at 650+ mA with stronger output power (but quite smaller than listed output). Heater adjustment doesn't help, strongest output is at ~1.7V 47mA.
 
These things are really sensitive to temp. Play with the heater. I could go from full power to nothing just letting it get too hot then cooling back in my hand. I think the range is like 1C either side and then sharp fall off.

Someone mentioned trying different diodes. I did in a clean room. No it doesn’t work. Don’t forget the oc hr coatings that make cavity won’t let you resonate out of band.
 
Hey, thanks for introducing this laser. The output is super nice. Here's a picture of the laser running. I printed the driver (conductive ink) in-house and ran it without a fan with a 9 v power supply. The LM317s get super hot even with two heatsinks on them. I had to add a fan to cool it down. Works very nice.

Quick question:
If I want to do RGB holography, what red and blue lasers are out there similar to the OPSL coherence specs and also same size?

65495
 
vasimv said:
The thing is confusing. Mine starts emitting beam only at 450 mA with very weak power (few milliwats or lower). Then beam disappears at 500+. Then appears again at 650+ mA with stronger output power (but quite smaller than listed output). Heater adjustment doesn't help, strongest output is at ~1.7V 47mA.
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It's the heater. I added a POT for the heater, somewhere in the middle it works really nice. At the wrong temp. you might excite differentlaser modes like TE20, Isaw it myself.
 
Full color holography is very difficult to get right. There are many obstacles you don't have with monochromatic ones. You might find that HeNe lasers are better for red as they have good coherence lengths at cheaper prices and single line argons work for blue. But, you will have problems getting them to line up properly and you will have to shoot each color separately.
 
paul1598419 said:
Full color holography is very difficult to get right. There are many obstacles you don't have with monochromatic ones. You might find that HeNe lasers are better for red as they have good coherence lengths at cheaper prices and single line argons work for blue. But, you will have problems getting them to line up properly and you will have to shoot each color separately.
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Laser Size is very important to me. I want them as small as possible just like the green OPSL one. I'm using laser diodes now but they suffer from astigmatism and ellipticity. I can correct the output with more optics but that will make everything bulkier. So basically I want cheap small circular lasers. Coherence is important but not important enough at the cost of size and price. The holography I do doesn't require super tight coherence.
 
There are some three color modules that also use the green OPSL used in this thread, but they don't line up properly from what I've heard. When shooting full color holography your lasers need to line up like a good RGB white laser does, but you then shoot each color separately. It can be very daunting to get outcomes that look reasonable.
 
paul1598419 said:
There are some three color modules that also use the green OPSL used in this thread, but they don't line up properly from what I've heard. When shooting full color holography your lasers need to line up like a good RGB white laser does, but you then shoot each color separately. It can be very daunting to get outcomes that look reasonable.
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Yeah, I just found one on eBay. Hopefully, they're what I need. Circular RGB output shape.
 
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