- Feb 22, 2008
Looking good! Try dropping the input voltage on your LM317s to ~5-6V. Will help tremendously with the heat. Diode forward voltage is no more than 2.2V or so, plus the regulator drop of ~2.5V. Half of your power input is getting turned into heat at 9V input.Hey, thanks for introducing this laser. The output is super nice. Here's a picture of the laser running. I printed the driver (conductive ink) in-house and ran it without a fan with a 9 v power supply. The LM317s get super hot even with two heatsinks on them. I had to add a fan to cool it down. Works very nice.
If I want to do RGB holography, what red and blue lasers are out there similar to the OPSL coherence specs and also same size?
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Which is interesting as mine didn't seem too bothered about heater settings, never did put it on an LPM but visually it seemed fine. Could be I never went through the full range on the pot. Never did follow up on that.It's the heater. I added a POT for the heater, somewhere in the middle it works really nice. At the wrong temp. you might excite differentlaser modes like TE20, Isaw it myself.
The R/B components of those aren't OPSL so the specs aren't nearly as good as with the green.There are some three color modules that also use the green OPSL used in this thread, but they don't line up properly from what I've heard. When shooting full color holography your lasers need to line up like a good RGB white laser does, but you then shoot each color separately. It can be very daunting to get outcomes that look reasonable.