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FrozenGate by Avery

OPEN SOURCE: "CC-Boost" - 2.4 Amp boost driver - RC1






Thanks for the link to the solder paste, I'll order some tonight when I'm at my pc. Since you use it successfully that will let me know if it is the paste I'm using or if it is me. :beer:

I know rhd. You da man ! :) Your an inspiration and I analyze your posts for tips. You have helped me a lot. Thank you. :beer:
 
If I had to do the boards again from
scratch, I would probably do everything
except the chips and the inductor. Then
paste the thermal pad for the IC only and
heat from the bottom to remove any chance
of overheating the chip. Then do the rest
with an iron set to 500°F (260°C).
 
Finally got my boards today. Didnt realize how much of this driver is taken up by the inductor. Speaking of inductors, mine are unshielded- shouldnt cause problems, should it?
 
crazyspaz said:
Finally got my boards today. Didnt realize how much of this driver is taken up by the inductor. Speaking of inductors, mine are unshielded- shouldnt cause problems, should it?
Click to expand...

It's normal if it looks like this:
45764d1405854971-open-source-cc-boost-2-4-amp-boost-driver-rc1-resized_img_20140719_235302.jpg
 
I sure hope my solder paste gets here tomorrow. I'm itchin' to get these things together.
 
well theres 3 boards down the drain...I may be able to salvage one, it just has solder on it, no parts. I am not sure if I got crappy paste or what, but it dries up under heat, then takes a significant amount of MORE heat to melt. The one board I said I may be able to salvage was me testing said paste after the first board went derka. The one I did get together kinda worked, but didn't boost- was only the battery's voltage out no matter what. IDK what the hell I am doing wrong, but I am done for the day. Maybe I will try some other solder paste.
 
I don't know if this will help, but the solder paste I use must be kept at refrigerated temperatures or it will dry up. It is a good paste and I have some more on the way. I posted a link to it on an earlier post on this thread.
 
Well, that is typically how solder paste
behaves. Though if the board is charring
before the paste flows, there is definitely
something wrong. I think some of these
chips are a bit more heat sensitive than
the datasheets call out. They really WANT
to be in an oven with the minimum amount of
heat for the minimum amount of time to get
the job done and NO MORE. Avoid lead
free/noPb/ROHS and go for 63/37 eutectic
and try the technique I describe above.

I can definitely relate, these boards had me
screaming mad.

Here is the paste I got. Haven't tried it yet,
just throwing it out there

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151283056312
 
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The Lightning Stalker said:
Well, that is typically how solder paste
behaves. Though if the board is charring
before the paste flows, there is definitely
something wrong. I think some of these
chips are a bit more heat sensitive than
the datasheets call out. They really WANT
to be in an oven with the minimum amount of
heat for the minimum amount of time to get
the job done and NO MORE. Avoid lead
free/noPb/ROHS and go for 63/37 eutectic
and try the technique I describe above.

I can definitely relate, these boards had me
screaming mad.

Here is the paste I got. Haven't tried it yet,
just throwing it out there

Solder Paste Cyberdocllc 63 37 Lead 10 CC 46G183°C and 10cc Tacky Flux Paste USA | eBay
Click to expand...


I think I will try what you said (heating board from underside to get the main IC), because that sucker is stupidly hot (as in, burn your skin hot) before the paste even melts. You do mean just heating the underside with hot air, yea?
I actually got that exact same paste just now. Paul, I used the stuff you linked too, and refrigerated it before use.
At least the parts are cheap. Pretty frustrating to waste the boards and parts regardless, but in the end I suppose its not too big of a deal.
 
Well the reflowing does take place at ~230C, so it should be burn your skin hot before it reflows :p

In an oven reflow setup there are three stages to the reflow process, preheat, soak and reflow. When it dries up and gets crusty you're in the soak stage.

Take your time and do it slowly, try and heat the whole board evenly.
 
crazyspaz said:
You do mean just heating the underside with hot air, yea?
Click to expand...

Yes. Heat it until the paste just flows,
but not too long. It's "Take your time,
hurry up" like the old Nirvana song. You
could do it with an iron, but the vias on
this board are tented off on the bottom, so
it either has to be air or a hot plate.
Maybe also check the temperature of your
air gun with a hitemp thermometer if you
can. Same goes for a hot plate.
 
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I bought an air gun recently, used it a bit, and then went back to the $20 Wal-Mart toaster oven. It's really a simple approach if you don't over complicate it.

My approach, which is yet to fail me, is:

- Put parts in toaster oven and turn on.
- Watch for final pad to liquify and turn off + open door.

That's it, and I use cheap $3 solder paste from ebay. I own an SMD air reflow station and expensive solder paste from digikey, but I don't see the benefit in general, and rarely use it.
 
This is what I use for small solder work but the oven sounds better, once parts are placed.

895d85b4-5c8b-4120-982b-db1751e11465_zps8a8ea3f5.jpg
 
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