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FrozenGate by Avery

OPEN SOURCE: "CC-Boost" - 2.4 Amp boost driver - RC1

It really is. I couldn't believe how much more 4.4a put a load on host components than 3a does. I had switches melting, voltage drop and heat at threaded connections.

This sounds like it may be the problem they had
with aluminum house wiring. There is a special
grease that prevents oxidataion at connection
points. The heat can cause more oxidation and
create a runaway effect. Connections will also
loosen up over time, especially with thermal
expansion and contraction.

I agree - I much prefer buck drivers.

Are there any open source buck drivers out there? I could see a high current buck driver being much more useful than high current boost driver.

The £0.99 buck "cheap driver" using the MP1584
was an open project. That chip is internally
limited at 4.7A and might be able to do that with
good heat sinking.

Those Vishay FETs are looking very attractive. I
ordered the 50A P-channel version a while back
but haven't done anything with it yet. 5.6mΩ!
 
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This sounds like it may be the problem they had
with aluminum house wiring. There is a special
grease that prevents oxidataion at connection
points. The heat can cause more oxidation and
create a runaway effect. Connections will also
loosen up over time, especially with thermal
expansion and contraction.
In my opinion aluminum wiring got a bad rap do to improper installation. "Most" people wiring houses don't take the time to properly terminate it. Your right if you don't apply Nolox it starts oxidizing. Aluminum oxide is an insulator, resistance goes up and thermal runaway from loose connections caused by heat/cool cycles takes over. It goes downhill fast.

I wouldn't want it in a house I lived in unless I wired it myself. In most places it's now illegal to use it anyway for residential except for services and feeders.
 
Yeah. It looks like we may need to start Noloxing
the threads on our aluminum builds.

Does anyone have some of the 47µF capacitors
and 0.15Ω resistors? Some idiot ordered the entire
stock from DigiKey RIGHT when I went to place my
order. :mad:
 
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Yeah. It looks like we may need to start Noloxing
the threads on our aluminum builds.

Does anyone have some of the 47µF capacitors
and 0.15Ω resistors? Some idiot ordered the entire
stock from DigiKey RIGHT when I went to place my
order. :mad:

seriously??? I was going to place my order tonight..... damn lol
 
Yeah. It looks like we may need to start Noloxing
the threads on our aluminum builds.

Does anyone have some of the 47µF capacitors
and 0.15Ω resistors? Some idiot ordered the entire
stock from DigiKey RIGHT when I went to place my
order. :mad:

There should be comparables - certainly for the caps.

For the resistors, make sure not to go lower than the wattage on the parts I picked though - they were carefully selected.
 
Yeah. Boy was I angry. :wtf:



Mouser has some, but I was trying to avoid them
since they charge $5 shipping. I went ahead and
ordered from them anyway, but it's a bit steep for 2
tiny parts they could just stuff in an envelope.

You are doing good for $5 shipping, digikey in Canada is $8 shipping.
 
It's even worse in Australia. Shipping from Digikey is $30 and our Australian version is $13 for anything
 
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Yeah. It looks like we may need to start Noloxing
the threads on our aluminum builds.

Does anyone have some of the 47µF capacitors
and 0.15Ω resistors? Some idiot ordered the entire
stock from DigiKey RIGHT when I went to place my
order. :mad:

I think I ordered 10 of everything. I only actually need 8. If 2 helps. Nvrmnd I see you found some. Darn phone. :)
 
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Where are you guys seeing these stock numbers?

I see tens of thousands of the caps and resistors in stock.
 
The resistors were in stock. I just had a hiccup with
my order process. Digikey has 0
C2012X5R1A476M125AC in stock. Mouser has
them, and that's who I ordered them from. Newark
has them cheaper than anyone else, but they're all
in some UK warehouse and they want $20 just to
bring them into the country.
 
Yeah. It looks like we may need to start Noloxing
the threads on our aluminum builds.

I had thought about putting Noalox on the threads, but the stuff is pretty messy. Thats another reason it doesn't get used like it should. Contractors don't want to pay for it, then the ones that do supply it, the Electricians don't want to apply it because it's this nasty grey stuff that gets all over.

What I did was blast the threads of my host with a small abrasive blaster like whats used for glass etching, washed it good and applied silicone grease to seal it from the air. It worked and wasn't near as messy. Not sure long term how long it will work. :beer:
 
I had thought about putting Noalox on the threads, but the stuff is pretty messy. Thats another reason it doesn't get used like it should. Contractors don't want to pay for it, then the ones that do supply it, the Electricians don't want to apply it because it's this nasty grey stuff that gets all over.

What I did was blast the threads of my host with a small abrasive blaster like whats used for glass etching, washed it good and applied silicone grease to seal it from the air. It worked and wasn't near as messy. Not sure long term how long it will work. :beer:

Ive used Krytox for years on my flashlights and it is a great lube and also stops oxidization. I think pretty much any lube will stop oxidization as it will coat the threads and stop air from coming in contact with the host material.
 
My boards arrived today so I have assembled a few of these drivers. Unfortunately I am still waiting on the correct rated sense resistors as I only realised afterwards that I ordered 1/8W resistors and not 1/3W resistors. But tried it for a few seconds and was giving me a solid 0.88A set to low range. Has RC1 gone to ARG for a final scope yet?
 
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Yeah, I keep doing that too. It seems like
just about every board I'm doing lately has
had at least one resistor that I've had to go
back and order again because it was the
wrong size. Stupid Mouser doesn't even
know the difference between a "wide" and a
regular model. So that got me once, and
then I twice ordered a x.xk resistor instead
of an x.xΩ. I am now double and triple
checking my orders before pulling the trigger.
 





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