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FrozenGate by Avery

O-Like New 1W 445nm diode / 200mW 405nm laser diode driver.!

current vs output from DTR:

400@3.9=249
450@4.0=319
500@4.0=391
550@4.0=450
600@4.1=514
650@4.1=596
700@4.1=646
750@4.1=706
800@4.2=770
850@4.2=816
900@4.2=874
950@4.2=941
1000@4.2=996
1050@4.3=1046
1100@4.3=1077
1150@4.3=1163
1200@4.3=1219
1250@4.3=1268
1300@4.3=1306
1350@4.4=1367
1400@4.4=1434
1450@4.5=1494
1500@4.5=1550
1550@4.5=1597
1600@4.5=1630
1650@4.5=1652
1700@4.5=1670
1750@4.5=1692
1800@4.6=1710

4,2V @ 1000mA is Standard...
so 4,11V @ 997mA seems quite up to spec.

tested the flexdrive and it was about 1,3A @ 3,7V input and 1000ma @ 4,1V output

That's 85% efficiency
 





hmmm... Maybe the driver needs lower battery current.It says:
Driver specification
Input voltage :3.7-4.2V
Input current :1.6A
Output voltage:4.8V
Output current:1.1A
Dirver size:10.08*22.50mm
Driver with spring size :10.08*29mm

Maybe the driver requires lower current to operate...test it and reply. I bought the driver too to test it...I'm waiting for a new 445nm diode....
 
Uhm, is just an impression, or that "1ohm" resistor is NOT connected as sensing resistor ? ..... i mean, i know that from these pics is difficult to say, but i don't see any track from the diode pin going to the IC .....

Can someone please check if there is any connection that go from the LD pin (where is connected the 1ohm resistor) to the Linear IC ? ..... if not, i may be wrong, but i feel that double-mosfet configuration very familiar (same as for the new o-like ones) ..... LTC1700, anyone ? ..... ;)
 
how did the resistor swap end up for you? Still going? I assume it R4 you talking about?
 
ill post some macros when i get home from work and check for you
 
Yes, i mean R4 ..... the pin from the LD seem not connected to anything other than the R4 itself, and is not in this way that a Rsense work, it need to be connected to the IC also from the LD pin, for work as current sense ..... it look instead as if it was placed there just as "limiter" and no other.

Also, the only IC with 10 pins that i remember i have tried, that was requiring 2 mosfets connected in that way (at least, for the connections that i can see in the pics) was the LTC1700 one ..... anyway, i originally discarded it cause it have a pair of limits ..... it require 2 external mosfets, and, overall, it's a current driver without a current regulation capability (i mean, you can set up a fixed maximum current for a given specific output voltage, but NOT make a driver that can be used for any LD regulating the current) ..... as in these drivers (IF it's an LTC1700), you can set the driver for use it with a 445nm diode at a defined current, but hooking the driver to a different LD (with a different FV), it does not work in the right way.

Anyway, this can be seen easily, if someone have available one of these drivers ..... using it with a test load, and changing the number of the diodes (for change the simulated FV), if the driver work correctly in current-regulation mode, the current must not change, where instead, if the current change when you change the FV, the driver is the one i said ;)

BTW, in this case, be careful using it with different LDs, it can end in a non correctly working, low current assembly (if the FV of the LD is higher than the one of the 445nm one), or in a smoking LD (if the FV is lower than the one of the 445nm one :p)
 
I modded R4 from 1 Ohm to 0.5 Ohm. Laser works perfect for 3 full batteries now. Power increased by about 50%.

So for me this mod works.
 
dvant said:
ta, will try tonite
Click to expand...

Sorry for the bump on the thread but did you ever get your results dvant?

I also received one of these drivers (the aixiz version) and when I hook up a freshly charged 14500 battery, I am only pulling 1.3A however the current climbs gradually. When I tried with a cr123, the current was right around 1.6A. Unfortunately I am unable to measure current to the diode (tried and something started smoking :o ) I really wish there was more info on this driver and Im hoping someone like DTR will try one of these out for testing.

Oh I was also wondering if I had to desolder the diode from the driver to swap out R4 for a .47ohm resistor. Im worried that if I attempt to desolder the diode, I will accidentally reconnect it and discharge the capacitors through the diode but at the same time, will changing a resistor on the board do the same?
 
Last edited:
Correct me if im wrong, I don't think it's posted, but I thinkDTR did test it
 
No sure about that but i did. DONT DO It. The Driver gets Extremely hot without modding it. when modding it with a lower ohm resistor to get more power even to bump it up to 1.2A with 4 diode as a test load the driver starts smoking.

The IC is fine that gets warm but the resistor that you mod to turn the power up get extremely hot. I even tested it with a 5 W .68 & .7 chassis Resistor that is Hetsinked and that even gets extremely hot.

There is 2 Resistor that started smoking on me. R4 started smoking on me without modding it after a 2 minute test run and 1 other resistor that is covered with potting next to the IC.

So i will end up using this driver at lower currant then it came to me stock. The only way i got it not to smoke on me is When i Hetsinked it. Then and only then the Driver at its stock output did not smoke on me.

Also like you said the driver does crawl up in power. Mine starts off at ~960mA but gets up to ~1.1A.

When i had it hooked up to a 445nm diode the Power on my LPM did not seem to increase.

Hope this Helps.
 
lazeerer said:
No sure about that but i did. DONT DO It. The Driver gets Extremely hot without modding it. when modding it with a lower ohm resistor to get more power even to bump it up to 1.2A with 4 diode as a test load the driver starts smoking.

The IC is fine that gets warm but the resistor that you mod to turn the power up get extremely hot. I even tested it with a 5 W .68 & .7 chassis Resistor that is Hetsinked and that even gets extremely hot.

There is 2 Resistor that started smoking on me. R4 started smoking on me without modding it after a 2 minute test run and 1 other resistor that is covered with potting next to the IC.

So i will end up using this driver at lower currant then it came to me stock. The only way i got it not to smoke on me is When i Hetsinked it. Then and only then the Driver at its stock output did not smoke on me.

Also like you said the driver does crawl up in power. Mine starts off at ~960mA but gets up to ~1.1A.

When i had it hooked up to a 445nm diode the Power on my LPM did not seem to increase.

Hope this Helps.
Click to expand...

Hmm thats strange, I just ran mine up and the resistors don't get warm at all however, the two black chips on the one side, as well as the big circle piece (lol @ me for not knowing the official names) get warm to the touch. They feel hot if you touch your mouth to it (yes I know thats weird). Are your current figures from the battery or to the diode?

I am only drawing 1.3A from the battery at 4.2V which is only 5.46W so at the 65% efficient figure the most possible current that could be delivered would be ~850ma I'll still give it a go with the resistor swap and see what happens lol.

Its a shame that this driver is pretty crappy, hopefully aixiz will stop selling these things to avoid hampering their otherwise great service and quality.
 
Not sure what to say then.:thinking: I must have gotten a bad board then.:confused:


Not sure how that is possible though. As iam able to change the currant on the driver and it seem to work when its not getting to the point of Extreme Hot. Witch is when running it >500mA.

My board also came with a lot Potting all over the area were the Chip is. So i cannot inspect underneath that without damage.
 
Yes. Now that own one i see that. That post is 4 months old and was when it was still in question when i and no one had the driver in hand to see.;)
 
Hey, I'm a bit of a noob, with a problem.
I have the driver, exact same as the one pictured on this page. I bought it off ebay.
I also have a blue ray diode, can't remember the specific nm rating, 405-445 something like that, the place I bought it from said it was 100mw.
I've tested the diode and it works fine but I can't get it to work with the driver in question.
I've gone over it a hundred times, made sure everything was connected to the correct places, checked everything for gapes in soldering and things like that but if the picture on here is anything to go by, it should be working.

What's happening is I put a current, 3 aaa rechargeable batteries [1800mAh, 1.2V each], through the driver and nothing happens. No heat, diode light, sparks, nothing.
Any suggestions or things that seem completely backwards in my approach?
Cause it's getting pretty frustrating.
 
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