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NUBM44 6W+ 450nm Laser Diode

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Hey, that was me that burned my ceiling fan blades!;) Give credit where credit is due!!!:rolleyes: BTW, the smell is horrendous!

I've successfully "decanned" many a diode using a rather unconventional method. I'm the type who always tries different lenses, even taking precautions while removing/installing lenses sometimes crap will get on the window, with most diodes if you see a distorted output quickly turn off power, if you were quick you can usually swipe the offending crud off with a clean toothpick(yes toothpick) and still have clean output. These diodes are a different beast, the power density is such that anything on the window that gets hit with the output will immediately heat up to the point of melting, warping or pitting the window. At this point, you have no other option but remove the window.

I don't own the expensive "pipe cutter" type decanning tool, nor do I trust myself slowly trying to score/cut the can off at the base. What I do is use a strong, sharp pick (dental pick will work but I've improvised with other tools) to catch the edge of the window/can interface. With the diode still pressed in a module, I carefully work my way around using the pick to pry the metal upward to open up the can. I use the front edge of the module as a leverage point for the pick. At some point, the window will detach from the can. Just be careful and keep at it until it opens enough that the window can be removed by letting it fall out. I've also had the glass window break during the process, in that case be extra careful and gently shake out any broken pieces. Remember, there are many delicate bond wires inside that can break easily, also the facet of the InGaN crystal/oscillator can be easily damaged. I've done this successfully many times, surprisingly none of my diodes broke in the process.

Afterwards, I don't fool around changing lenses, not going to push my luck with getting anything on the emitter facet. I have noticed "dewindowed" diodes seem more susceptible to sudden death and degradation. My theory is the windows AR coating helps keeps back reflections in check. As most know back reflections into the facet can cause COD, especially pushing them hard as we do. It could also be issues with oxidation on the facet, after all it doesn't take much given the area that actually emits light is about the size of a few bacterium. Even the smallest imperfection on that facet will create heat and rapid degradation. It just blows my mind how so much light can come from a spot smaller than a pinhead. Lol! I remember when a 35mw 532 felt like having a light saber! I would never have dreamed we would see this much progress.
 

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Lol Barthchris @ celing fan. I mostly burnt stuff around the yard. I did confirm for a fact that the NUBM44 can cut underwater. I took some black electrical tape to avoid reflections and put it inside a large plastic tacobell glass then wrapped it around the side and filled it with water...it bubbles and eventually cuts right through it. I probably won't have much of choice but to decann both of my NUBM44s I gotta find an extraction tool though. ....those delicate wires are why I don't want to risk anything else other than a tool specifically designed for decanning. Between the 2 diodes if I damage them inside I am out $250.00. I ever see this with cheaper diodes I may try your method though.
 
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I've never tried popping a balloon with a laser yet, but I have burned some card board with a FAP800 and some wood and a distant plastic garbage can with a NUBM44 :)

Yet, my main interest is in low divergence beams which can travel a great distance without much spread. That can get me into trouble if I hit an airplane with it! I don't shoot low to the horizon due to that possibility anymore.
Yeah, I've become obsessed with low divergence as well. Be careful pointing straight up, could probably blind satellite sensors with a tight beam! Lol!! Hmmm, high power, low divergence got me thinking about getting revenge on my local speed cam.:yabbmad: Just kidding:evil:
 
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Not really a burning thread but if you're into this sort of thing I've noticed that small particles suspended in water will make a loud popping noise if hit with the focused output of this diode. I first noticed it with a 15yrs old bottle of Goldschlager I had in my liquor cabinet, its that gimmicky, cinnamon flavored, hangover-inducing liquor with small pieces of gold leaf suspended in it, not sure if it's a locally induced steam bubble or if it ablates/vaporizes the gold leaf, what ever the process its loud. Works in other liquid/particle combo as well. Of course, safety glasses are a must!!
 
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The pic is the beam output after it burnt a hole through the diode window. I was just showing what the beam looks like after it.
Red, it's a powerful diode. It burnt a hole through the window. There's not much you can help me with. The optics need regular cleaning etc. That I already know. They have a normal duty cycle. That I already know. They have a specific temperature for normal operation. That I already know. Thanks for the offer though. I didn't build this to go around zapping nazis with laser if that's what you mean while you inspire me with my idea of the hellraiser cube though :crackup: little time, trial and error...and I admit sometimes my hand slips.
@barthchris never heard of Goldschlager interesting though. You actually drink tiny pieces of gold????
Alcohol gets into the bloodstream so I have to wonder about gold flakes? I don't know that I would want those in my heart!
but yeah I know it's not really a burning thread. This only came up related to the window getting burnt.
From what I see it seems to happen if you focus it past being a thin line using the G2 focusing lens. I zoomed in more on the diode
window and I question it being a crack in the window or burn from the diode itself in a tiny line. Questioning moving the Collimating lens further away from the diode in the G2 lens assembly so that even if it's tightened down with spring and external spring under the focusing ring...it can't damage the diode window.

 
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Alien Laser

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( Bradford717 ) Looks like you are very knowledgeable!!!
:na:
-
Why do you have the ( I'M NOT REAL LASERBEE !!! ) :thinking:
 
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DTR

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Yep the burning of the windows is due to something getting in there and blocking the light right at the window melting it. It can be something even smaller than you can see with your eyes. Seen it on just about every diode that is over 500mW. It is more common on the 9mm diodes and specially more powerful ones as they don't give you any time to figure out you have an issue before it runs away to a point that melts the glass. I also think the larger window gives a bigger landing area for dust particles and the higher power the larger the area light is passing though the glass which ups the chance but seen it on diodes as small as the 3.8mm S06J diodes. The first time I experienced this was with a M140 that got some teflon bits in the module and when the NDB7875's came along it I seen it more often. Best thing is to never take the lens out unless you are in a very clean environment and good to have some compressed air as well just to be sure which I go though cases of the stuff. Tried changing to an air compressor but just too much moisture they create. Clean optics are essential for lasers. Remember the relevant quote from real genius.:tinfoil:

"Didn't anyone ever tell you to make sure your optics are clean"

Sorry can't embed with timecode for some reason.:yabbem:

https://youtu.be/FjcCjkRArsE?t=3575


Then there was "And from now on stop playing with yourself" Another bit of good advice.:na:

https://youtu.be/sf-5RaFnh2U?t=183
 

Lifetime17

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Hi Jordan,
Maybe install a drier on the line , they are cheap and work well with wicking away moisture in the air line. They are also drainable in a clear view crucible. Just a thought being i buy a lot of compressed air cans.

Rich:)
 
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This what you were looking for Jordon? and I wasn't blaming you or your sales for my diodes. Everything I have got from you was in good condition. The postal service themselves may be screwy coming out of New Jersey or New York but that's all post 9/11 stuff. So please don't feel like I'm saying you were at fault. **** man! You sent me a 2nd diode out within like 2 days because I couldn't get any tracking on my order and it arrived the next day. Not blaming you. I agree it could have been something that got on the diode window but what I am questioning is the threads themselves if this was something that got on it....tiny copper particles from threading the g2 lens assembly into the axis housing?? I will probably decan both but if I get another one I'm waiting until I get my lens tube for my cyndrilical lens pair so that the G2 lens remains stationary with less chances of any particles of copper from threading. I rarely ever took the G2 lens assembly out but I did focus it in and out a lot.

Testing


Customize YouTube Start and End Time - Acetrot.com
When it generates the link open it in a new window
h*ttps://w*ww.youtube.co*m/embed/vQ4dnBrtrWc?start=78&end=86&version=3
and copy the end code and paste (vQ4dnBrtrWc?start=78&end=86&version=3) between the YT tags. Off topic but helpful.

Alien Laser not sure what you're talking about? Are you seeing invisible text too? You're not one of those conspiracy theorist too are you?

Red :friend: when I posted that pic it was as an attachment because of the size so it didn't take up so much space. You're tying my name to it and taking up half the page friend.
 
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DTR

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No worries did not take it that way.;)

If there was any directness to my post it is just because I have been short on time and this has been discussed previously in this thread, several other threads like back with the NDB7875 diodes.

I have found a couple of blocks straight out of the projector with a diode in there with a melted window. Obviously due to a contaminant from the factory when assembling the units and only being run for a very short time for testing. I have engraving customers with hundreds of hours on these with 4.5A being the used currents. Most that do this do it very shortly after the diode pocket being opened and/or while turning the lens which can move stuff around in the module specially if pointing the laser up in the air. Yes it can be anything even particles that have embedded in the threads that get knocked loose when focusing down.

Nice on the youtube. Figured there was a way just did not have the time to figure it out.:beer:
 

paul1598419

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I didn't realize that the diode window could be melted on these lower power diodes like the M140 and the NDB7875. I guess I should pull the lenses off to check the diode windows on these builds. One thing I did was all my M140 diodes were brand new with no cut pins or solder on them and handled carefully. I had to pay a bit more for them, at $40.00 each for five, but I felt it was worth it at the time.
 
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RedCowboy

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I burned through the can window of 1 x M140 and 1 x 44 due to contamination in the last couple of years, but I also have a dozen strong regular use NUBM44's all in good shape, the trick is I don't take my primary lens in and out any more than I have to and I often use a beam expander on my 44 builds to extend the useful working distance and it also protects the diode and lets me focus by turning the beam expander and the primary lens simply stays put.




Another way to go is to use a G2 primary with a 6X cylindrical pair so that you get a fixed beam much like a M-140 beam only much stronger, but the beam looks good and there is no focusing needed, just switch it on and use it. No your build does not have to be as bulky as the pic, I was going for a longer duty cycle via bulk.



Or you can simply use your choice of primary lenses G2, 3element and avoid the temptation to remove it unless necessary, typically you won't have a window issue, if you are really worried about contamination then order your nubm44 already pressed into a module with your lens of choice installed and don't remove it, you should be golden so long as you don't overdrive or overheat.
 
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DTR you were correct and thanks for the tip on using the dental pic (come in handy using caution..to flip the G2 lens and other lens over inside the housing) to break away the diode window. It did work. DTR, even without removing the G2 focusing lens...it got smut down inside it on the back part of the lens. looking at it with naked eyes I couldn't see anything wrong with it but when I unscrewed the G2 lens from the housing and flipped it over it had smut from burning the 2x2 piece of wood. I cleaned the optics on it both of them. That one has burns in the coating(flipped both lens upside down and inspected the output on the white ceiling. One looks good the other I can tell has burns in the coating). The 2nd diode has been tested and still works. I will probably buy another diode soon but I can still burn with it. It has a halo effect around the rectangular beam (if you can still call it that lol). I didn't decan it...I just busted the glass window on both and shook the glass out of the diode window hole.
:rolleyes: Goofing off just to show someone how to properly use kalidiscope pattern on a high powered laser....i removed the AxisZ retaining ring from my 2nd G2 lens and laid a glass kalidiscope pattern square lens over the first AxisZ retaining ring then added a 2nd AxisZ retaining ring then the focusing ring. Has to be closer to the collimator lens otherwise it will burn a hole through the kalidiscope lens. They weren't really intended for this though! (the one that has burns in the coating anyways) :banghead:

Red, on my 2nd one I didn't remove the lens assembly either but it did get smut down in it on the diode side of the G2 lens. The 2x2 I was burning was at least 12 inches or more away from the laser.
 
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Andrew124C41

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I burned through the can window of 1 x M140 and 1 x 44 due to contamination in the last couple of years, but I also have a dozen strong regular use NUBM44's all in good shape, the trick is I don't take my primary lens in and out any more than I have to and I often use a beam expander on my 44 builds to extend the useful working distance and it also protects the diode and lets me focus by turning the beam expander and the primary lens simply stays put.




Another way to go is to use a G2 primary with a 6X cylindrical pair so that you get a fixed beam much like a M-140 beam only much stronger, but the beam looks good and there is no focusing needed, just switch it on and use it. No your build does not have to be as bulky as the pic, I was going for a longer duty cycle via bulk.



Or you can simply use your choice of primary lenses G2, 3element and avoid the temptation to remove it unless necessary, typically you won't have a window issue, if you are really worried about contamination then order your nubm44 already pressed into a module with your lens of choice installed and don't remove it, you should be golden so long as you don't overdrive or overheat.
How do you get a fixed beam? Where is the focus point? Which do you prefer...this or using a beam expander?
 

RedCowboy

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I get a fixed beam by using a G2 primary and cylindrical correction.

I like a fixed beam best for it's look but a beam expander produces a better tool if you want to put the power in a tight spot where you want it. For my wood burning art having control of the spot size is important.

Best results are when you use a BE after cyl correction, now you can use only a primary lens with a beam expander and it is easy to do, but it's not as good although still a great improvement.
 
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