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FrozenGate by Avery

NUBM44 6W+ 450nm Laser Diode

That's what I'm doing and I'm going to try and replicate what milos did and his results, I've ordered all the lens he used and I'm fabricating my own version of a mount for the lens with ElectricPlasma's machining help.....

This will be interesting, I am curious to see how the corrected beam prints at 5 meters and 25 meters before you install an expander, also how wide/tall is the beam after correction and at 5 and 25 meters.

Please take lot's of pics, video would be great, they are great for telling the story and giving insight, if the 3 lens setup is better and fits the 3X BE then you will love it and I will switch to that method, but I would like to see the spot size, I'm sure you know to use a cheap pair of safety glasses in front of your camera to show the real spot size.

Good luck and lot's of pics please. :D
 
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This will be interesting, I am curious to see how the corrected beam prints at 5 meters and 25 meters before you install an expander, also how wide/tall is the beam after correction and at 5 and 25 meters.

Please take lot's of pics, video would be great, they are great for telling the story and giving insight, if the 3 lens setup is better and fits the 3X BE then you will love it and I will switch to that method, but I would like to see the spot size, I'm sure you know to use a cheap pair of safety glasses in front of your camera to show the real spot size.

Good luck and lot's of pics please. :D
You got it !
 
Call me a power pig or whatever IDC, I want a hell of a lot more power to do useful work.

Try to cut through a simple 1/2 inch thick branch on a bush with your 7 watt laser from inches away focused as needle thin as you can get it.....it just needs more power, and with enough highly focused power wet brush could be chopped up without even igniting it, OK...So you keep a garden hose near by to wet anything that catches, hell even the 5 watt beam will burn through wet leaves, you could wet down your shrubs in advance and then carve them into art with a 10 KW laser focused to a needle thin beam.

YES, I can see the extreme danger to bystanders, you will have to be on a scissor lift aiming down with no bystanders anywhere around.

Think about pointing your cellphone at your friend as your laser burns their portrait into a plank or an acrylic statue.

So much could and will be that I could go on and on for hours, but for now let's just say that I have half a dozen 6W HH units that just don't " cut it " pun intended and I want more useful power, just for my wood burning art I could use a lot more power.

It is cool to see the tungsten light bulb circling the drain, and the advances coming.

These are not a great deal or very useful, but they look cool and I bet they would look amazing powered up and shining into a distant tree line....safely of course.

5x NICHIA NUBM06 445nm 160W Laser Bank/Blue Laser Diode With PCB | eBay


BTW, there is no reason for this 160w bank to be so big and cumbersome, it will get smaller I bet in the time ahead.

55418d1490118972-nubm44-6w-450nm-laser-diode-pulled06times5.jpg
 

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Look at the bottom right corner and the board plug in, this is a pulled unit.

Is there a machine that makes this profitable to pull these?

Is it NEW, it says NEW, what parent unit ??????
 
Call me a power pig or whatever IDC, I want a hell of a lot more power to do useful work.

Try to cut through a simple 1/2 inch thick branch on a bush with your 7 watt laser from inches away focused as needle thin as you can get it.....it just needs more power, and with enough highly focused power wet brush could be chopped up without even igniting it, OK...So you keep a garden hose near by to wet anything that catches, hell even the 5 watt beam will burn through wet leaves, you could wet down your shrubs in advance and then carve them into art with a 10 KW laser focused to a needle thin beam.

YES, I can see the extreme danger to bystanders, you will have to be on a scissor lift aiming down with no bystanders anywhere around.

Think about pointing your cellphone at your friend as your laser burns their portrait into a plank or an acrylic statue.

So much could and will be that I could go on and on for hours, but for now let's just say that I have half a dozen 6W HH units that just don't " cut it " pun intended and I want more useful power, just for my wood burning art I could use a lot more power.

It is cool to see the tungsten light bulb circling the drain, and the advances coming.

These are not a great deal or very useful, but they look cool and I bet they would look amazing powered up and shining into a distant tree line....safely of course.

5x NICHIA NUBM06 445nm 160W Laser Bank/Blue Laser Diode With PCB | eBay


BTW, there is no reason for this 160w bank to be so big and cumbersome, it will get smaller I bet in the time ahead.

s-l1600.jpg

What do they use something like that in ?
 
if the price is equal' amongst 05,06 and 08 LDbanks on a attractive single-offers' is there an obvius choice' with our hobby as "handheld lasers", and that is the intended purpose and not just take it on the fly as to nominel-effect.

Are certainly not on call with the pro & cons when it comes to 05,06 and 08 and not least beam-charistica, quality of the attahced Gball-lenses, decan-handling and not least beamcharistica, divergence and all that jazz and atm still just trying to get an overview of wich banks is equal to wich NUBM'names and not least wich LDbanks is the prefered choice amongst 05,06,08 banks, if the price doesnt differ and a solid sinked handheldlaser with standard (3ele or G?lenses) is the intended purpose..?

Got one of each in transit, but where seeking some few spares now that the price has taken a tumble and got the impression from skimming threads and different post that there aint that much difference other then the newer 08banks is more potent in nominel effect and carry many of the cons from 05;06 banks, but all in all the 08diode would be prefered if the price doesnt differ and is the same amongst all three, but still many of the views is from an time'era where there wasnt some of the other alternatives. -
 
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What is your goal?

Do you want to pop a balloon across your basement or see a pretty beam safely aimed at a safe backstop?

Really these ball lenses diodes are crap for all but desktop fun ( WITH PROPER SAFETY GLASSES THAT ATTENUATE THE WAVELENGT YOU ARE WORKING WITH )

If you want a pretty beam then get a can/window diode with better divergence, I suggest a M-462 and a 1.8 a driver if you want a pretty blue beam with the least effort and at a good price.

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/m462-462nm-laser-diode

The NUBM44 is the current powerhouse but has wider divergence, good news is that it's on sale right now.

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/6w-nubm44-445nm-laser-diode
 
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Hi!
I've just bought this NUBM44 6W+ diode from DTR shop with the g2 lens and heat sink.
Tried it out a bit with voltage and ampere parameters according to the test picture.

Now it seems to be that the inner lens on the diode itself has become black as if to blow.
The light coming out of it is bright only a few moments after the start and then become less powerful every second.
Looks like it burned but what have I done wrong? I followed the test picture all the way with max test at 3.8A 4.5V for 10 seconds.
 
Doesn't sound good, did you get the 20mm or the 25mm copper sink?
 
Did you put it into a substantial heat sink or run it in the copper module only?

They must be fitted into a large heat sink or they will burn up.

----edit----
That little 22mm heat sink is only good for smaller diodes, if you ran your 44 at 4+ amps in that 22mm heat sink you likely cooked your diode, did you use a driver?
 
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So the diode was run only when put in 22mm heat sink. And no longer then 10-20 seconds. (till you could feel with your hand that it become warm)
I used no driver, just the power supply unit.
Hm, why is it not mentioned that this diode require substantial heat sink?

What cooling system you recommend for nubm44 diode to run on 4A?
The project is to use this diode on a laser engraving machine.
 
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You must always use a diode driver to run laser diodes.

Don't attempt to connect the diode directly to a fixed voltage source like a battery. You must use a laser driver limited to no more than 5A to power this diode.

These are DTR's own words. This goes for DC power supplies too.

The DC power supply feeds the driver, and then the driver regulates and outputs to the diode. The key word being regulate. This stops unwanted current/voltage discrepancies killing the diode.
 
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