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FrozenGate by Avery

NUBM34 Laser Blaster - 115+ Watts of Intense Blue Photons

You can run everything is series but never in parallel. Series all diodes get the same current and drop the voltage they like. In parallel they will fight with each other and you’ll have a hard time getting all diodes to light the same. Infact in severe situations only one leg might light and if one leg goes out there will be current spike before the driver recovers that can kill all of them. It’s not worth the risk. Series is a higher voltage so finding the right driver could be a challenge. Power each row with its own driver. A pain but a solid solution.
 





kecked said:
You can run everything is series but never in parallel. Series all diodes get the same current and drop the voltage they like. In parallel they will fight with each other and you’ll have a hard time getting all diodes to light the same. Infact in severe situations only one leg might light and if one leg goes out there will be current spike before the driver recovers that can kill all of them. It’s not worth the risk. Series is a higher voltage so finding the right driver could be a challenge. Power each row with its own driver. A pain but a solid solution.
Click to expand...
OK thanks i connected it in series
 
I run my nubm31t, all 4 arrays in parallel.

Here is the data after running for 30 minutes. (I use liquid cooling)
array 1: 3.386A
array 2: 3.328A
array 3: 3.436A
array 4: 3.306A

Use this data and decide if you would take the risk.

In my opinion and my own limited hobby tinkering, these high powered blue diodes (GaN) are a different breed from all other diodes. They can operate without the need for chilled cooling and perform at 65C. Any other diode technology would never have a chance. They only recently started becoming popular in the consumer industry in the past 10 years. I would like to compare them to medium/high powered LEDs.

Advice and experience from previous generations of laser diodes may not strongly apply to GaN diodes.
 
likevvii said:
I run my nubm31t, all 4 arrays in parallel.

Here is the data after running for 30 minutes. (I use liquid cooling)
array 1: 3.386A
array 2: 3.328A
array 3: 3.436A
array 4: 3.306A

Use this data and decide if you would take the risk.

In my opinion and my own limited hobby tinkering, these high powered blue diodes (GaN) are a different breed from all other diodes. They can operate without the need for chilled cooling and perform at 65C. Any other diode technology would never have a chance. They only recently started becoming popular in the consumer industry in the past 10 years. I would like to compare them to medium/high powered LEDs.

Advice and experience from previous generations of laser diodes may not strongly apply to GaN diodes.
Click to expand...
thanks
i see the difference
is the data now rather bad or good?
 
what is the maximum operating temperature of the nubm34 diode? I can't find any data sheets
 
There are pictures of data sheet to the right of NUBM34 pictures at some ebay sellers.
Like this one:
www.ebay.com

NICHIA NUBM31T 455nm 95W High Power Multiple Blue Laser Diode/Tin-Pin | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NICHIA NUBM31T 455nm 95W High Power Multiple Blue Laser Diode/Tin-Pin at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

On main page it shows operating temperature 0-70ºC.

However I think hat at 65ºC vs 25ºC you would loose 10-20% of diode efficiency and only get 75-80W instead of 95W at the same curent consumption - more heat, less light.
 
I didnt say you could not run par you just take a chance doing so.
 
Series is the correct way, also as your laser diodes age they are more likely to not all remain as balanced, I have harvested many used diodes lately and they don't all test the same, hell one of my nubm35 arrays came with one weak chip, the string still works but the string of 7 burns in slightly faster.

I don't know how imbalanced losing one chip will make it because the weak ( led-ed ) chip still draws current and makes heat, must be built into the anti static device but IDK, best bet is all in series or use a driver for each string.



SANY6328.JPG
 
LarryDFW said:
I like the massive heatpipe heatsink .
Very nice integrated design work.
Click to expand...
I found a broken but working large 12v cooler/heater Coleman 'ice chest' (but no need for ice) it is huge and I think it would cool VERY well.
Any suggestions for the best use of this pelter?
 
hakzaw1 said:
I found a broken but working large 12v cooler/heater Coleman 'ice chest' (but no need for ice) it is huge and I think it would cool VERY well.
Any suggestions for the best use of this pelter?
Click to expand...
Welcome back. Where ya been?
 
Hi Hakzaw,

From all these coolers/heaters I always throw away the cheap part (TEC) and fill the body with real ice from freezer.
Only in this way they can cool well even 1000W laser, which I will make one day!
 
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