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NUBM31T 95W 455nm

paul1598419

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You can get a 20 mile long beam just using a 532nm DPSS laser and a beam expander. You don't need multiple beams from a diode array.
 



Photon Master

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You can get a 20 mile long beam just using a 532nm DPSS laser and a beam expander. You don't need multiple beams from a diode array.
I meant a white flashlight beam generated by a blue laser, like the Acebeam W30

i actually have a Sanwu 1.2 watt green with the beam expander and you’re right, it makes a beautiful beam
 

Photon Master

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I found the video with the diode that looks like the one in the picture on this thread. 40 second mark

 

KmanAuto

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Will these glasses be enough for protection?
 

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Light superglue

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Yes, I use a similar kind of googles. Important is that they be not generic ebay stuff but purchased from a known manufacturer. Not cheap!

But if you are new to lasers I think that everyone here on LPF would recommend you to play with 1-5W lasers first before passing to NUBM31. Get used to constant current drivers, wearing googles etc. Otherwise you can burn the expensive thing or hurt yourself or someone else what could be even worse.

Oh, this was my 500th post!
 

RedCowboy

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Good laser safety glasses are important, you can spend a lot more on certified glasses or go with EaglePair brand which many here use, they are good quality at a good price, but don't trust the Chinese glasses from ebay and amazon.

You can get laser safety glasses HERE........make certain to get glasses that will attenuate the wavelength you will be working with.
 

Junkers

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What is it you actually plan on doing with it? If it's anything CNC orientated or anything that'll result in reflections I'd suggest looking at goggles rather than glasses. I have a pair of the eagle pair OD6+ glasses and find they let a lot of light past through the bridge of the nose and through the sides when cutting.
 

KmanAuto

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Yes, I use a similar kind of googles. Important is that they be not generic ebay stuff but purchased from a known manufacturer. Not cheap!

But if you are new to lasers I think that everyone here on LPF would recommend you to play with 1-5W lasers first before passing to NUBM31. Get used to constant current drivers, wearing googles etc. Otherwise you can burn the expensive thing or hurt yourself or someone else what could be even worse.

Oh, this was my 500th post!
I ordered from apinex.com they were recommended to me by a friend that had ordered from them in the past for work.
I'm not new to lasers, I've worked with green up to ~3-4W. This will be the most powerful one that I've worked with, which is why I am seeking as much information as possible before completing the build and powering the diode up.
 

KmanAuto

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Good laser safety glasses are important, you can spend a lot more on certified glasses or go with EaglePair brand which many here use, they are good quality at a good price, but don't trust the Chinese glasses from ebay and amazon.

You can get lasermake certain to get glasses that will attenuate the wavelength you will be working with.
Thank you for the link. If they are recommended by Styropyro they must work ;-) I ordered my pair from apinex as it was recommended by a friend who ordered for work previously. But I like options and the more recommendations the better. Definitely staying away from Amazon & eBay junk.
Thank You
 

KmanAuto

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What is it you actually plan on doing with it? If it's anything CNC orientated or anything that'll result in reflections I'd suggest looking at goggles rather than glasses. I have a pair of the eagle pair OD6+ glasses and find they let a lot of light past through the bridge of the nose and through the sides when cutting.
To be absolutely honest, I'd love to install a "Phaser" on my Model S, it would definitely be set to "stun" , but at the same time, I don't want to go to jail.....

I build a lot of off-the-wall projects. Currently, looking to make a survivalist energy tool. Though that may change as time goes on. I'm not rushing through this, and I'm setting up for a winter project. I do have some star trek hand phasers that mocked up, the diode fits comfortably on the end, I have enough room for the heat sync, and driver, but not sure if I have enough room to fit the battery yet, I have 18650's at my disposal, about 100 of them from a Tesla battery pack. I worked out to supply bursts at the needed wattage I'd need 6x Tesla cells (Designed for higher output, not your regular laptop cells). I "Could" fit 2, but don't think I will have the room for it.
Next though was a old Maglight flashlight. the ones that take D cells. Plenty of room, with nice aluminum casing to dissipate heat further. It would also be more rugged for portable use. I like the radar gun idea, but it's just too big and bulky. I'm trying to get at least 1/2 the size of StyroPyro's radar gun or smaller. Incorporate a Peltier unit on the after size of the heat sync. Let the heat sync do it's job, but use a Peltier to transfer heat from the heat sync to the casing if necessary, that way no direct contact to the diode to prevent too extreme of temperature swings.
Suppose a laser based "snowblower" (Snow Melter?) would be a neat idea too.
Again, all in planning phase for winter project. I need to finish building a electric locomotive before I get fully into this project.
 

Light superglue

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Hi Junkers,

Yes, I asked to sand blast a piece of surface of these specimens. But the result was the same - it might have reflected less but only until the moment when the metal started to melt.

BTW here is the spot at 5m of above mentioned setup with 2xNUBM08 blocks side by side. Compared to NUBM31 LDs which show large spots, most of the 16 lines here are well focused except 3-4 of them.
 

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Junkers

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The alignment does look better than the NUBM08 block I had. Do you think they are genuine units? I'm in two minds about making a knife edging set for the NUBM08 block. I'm curious to know how smaller spot I can achieve with the right setup and whether it'll be useful for cutting/printing. My fear is it might all be vain if the separate beams are superimposed and deconstructively interfere .

I've since picked up some standard galv sheet steel and found much the same as you. Infact I couldn't even make a mark against the surface at 47W. I'm not sure how much to attribute to the galvanized coating, it's reflective finish, or thermal conductance but either way it's a no go. I did try sanding it and still I couldn't feel heat in the work piece. I've also tried to melt solid Aluminium and Brass with no success but that isn't surprising. Their respective powders seem to respond well but if you can't heat up the substrate then it isn't of much value.

I did manage to piece together a makeshift beam profiler. I need to source a CCD camera with a known module. Right now I don't know the pixel pitch so I can only make relative measurements. It does illustrate you can make a roundish spot though, albeit pretty far from Gaussian.
 

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