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FrozenGate by Avery

NUBM0F WOW....

No, there is no thermal paste. If there was pasta it would burn immediately. The laser was used for 5 minutes the day before and there were no problems. Today I turned it on and the failure happened almost immediately within 10 seconds of operation. If there was pasta, it would have burst that very day. And there's no way there can be thermal paste, because I'm very careful.
 





NINE O CLOCK...... LEFT HAND SIDE, THERE IS DEBRIS. That looks like metal, if trapped between the window and your lens it could have caused the window burn through.
Don't feel too bad, it happens.
Screenshot from 2023-12-12 08-38-27.png
 
I can't argue how it got damaged. I just turned on the laser today and this happened. It was working fine before. I didn't remove the lens or anything. I put the batteries in and it blew. But it already happened. I will try to save the diode because it is still healthy. I'll let you know if I succeed
 
That's how it happens, you pick it up and the debris falls into place between the window and lens, then when you turn it on the damage happens fast....... it's happened to me in the past with a NUBM44, same deal, was working just fine and later when I turned it on again the failure happened right away.

Screenshot from 2023-12-12 09-25-36.png
 
You can remove the can by carefully squeezing it near the base or with a razor blade, or use a professional tool.

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I'll try a small file. I have already opened such a diode before for a test. It was damaged though and I don't know if everything was ok. My goal is to try to peel off the capsule, but first I need to make a cut and use a screwdriver to try to remove the cap.
 
Borislav@87 said:
Brand new NUBM0F diode. During a test, after a few minutes of operation, the glass broke. It's not my fault. Whenever I place diodes I work very carefully and cleanly. There is no way a foreign body got inside because the lens was not removed. Probably a defective item. It happened at 5A current. Luckily the diode works. I will try very carefully to remove the protective capsule with the glass. With a small file, I will make a hole where the capsule is stuck and try to peel it off. If it can't be done with the file, I will file the entire capsule from everywhere.
Click to expand...
Thats why i stay away from recanned diodes
 
This one was from years ago and it was a factory window can NUBM44, my 1st NUBM44 IINM, I expect I got something on the window without knowing it.
That said all my re-canned 0E's and 0F's as well as an 0A are doing just fine, I wouldn't avoid re-canned diodes on account of a rare burn through that's likely not the windows fault.

Screenshot from 2023-12-12 09-25-36.png
 
I successfully opened the diode, but it does not last. As soon as I removed the capsule, I saw that there was burning around the crystal. It worked for about 1 minute and died. Nothing. What matters is that I tried
 

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Yes it's very good to keep trying. :) Never give up.

That said I can see a lot of dust/shavings from your file/cutting that likely coated your facet with dust, maybe next time try pinching the can with pliers across the pedestal so as not to damage the wires or substrate, sometimes I can pop the window cans off without damage, sometimes not, but I don't remove one very often anyway.
 
There was no dust or anything inside. I made a slight cut by thinning the capsule all over, but without puncturing it. The slot was very small and I took a small screwdriver and turned it and the capsule came off. It can't be seen in the pictures, but then I gave the copper body a good wash and dried it. I checked the diode with a magnifying glass and it was clean. Prophylactically, I blew with a lens cleaning pump. But the diode was simply damaged. At 3A it worked for 1 min without problems. But on 5A it failed in about 10 seconds
 
RedCowboy said:
This one was from years ago and it was a factory window can NUBM44, my 1st NUBM44 IINM, I expect I got something on the window without knowing it.
That said all my re-canned 0E's and 0F's as well as an 0A are doing just fine, I wouldn't avoid re-canned diodes on account of a rare burn through that's likely not the windows fault.

View attachment 76957
Click to expand...
I had this same incident happen to a diode i shipped to Tung for a laser build the window had something in front and burned/ shattered window below 3A of current it happens even on brand new diodes. (The diode was not a N brand diode)
 
RedCowboy said:
I just received my 1st re-canned NUBM0F and WOW !
View attachment 76547
Click to expand...

So it's not just my package that seems to be labeled as "NUBM07."
I just received what I hope is a couple true NUBM0F diodes today. This will be my first powerful blue diode. I have too many projects going on and not enough time so it may be a few weeks months years before I finally get around to activating this diode.

Thanks, everyone, for all the testing and info up to this point.
 
RA_pierce said:
So it's not just my package that seems to be labeled as "NUBM07."
I just received what I hope is a couple true NUBM0F diodes today. This will be my first powerful blue diode. I have too many projects going on and not enough time so it may be a few weeks months years before I finally get around to activating this diode.

Thanks, everyone, for all the testing and info up to this point.
Click to expand...
Often chinese write a 7 as a F but again hopefully is a genuine nubm0f as they chinese market is also flooded with 0A passing them as 0F. If you have a LPM power output at 3A should be 5.25W+ no less with g2 lens. If is lower is most likely a 0A or 0E1000028232.png
 
Mine has been decanned in a closed capsule for weeks and peaked at 10.5W on my Sanwu LPM today!
(I think you're correct @RedCowboy , it must have been dust that killed it)

G2 Lens, 25mm DTR module, 20cm distance, Sanwu Tracer 20T LPM, 0°C on TEC
JLasers - Nichia 44_47 Series.png
Ignore the NUBM44-81 missing line, I haven't tested it yet.
Diode can hit 9.5W no problem at 21°C, but can hit an astounding 10.5W at 0°C :O
 
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