New DX Green MODULES

[seoguy]

Perhaps because they were approaching the 45-day PayPal window on your order?

I also know they have been having some quality control problems with the first units that were ordered around the same time as yours as well.

Because some are getting them in the U.S. right?

YES! They are OEM modules. They even took off the spring so you would have to solder them. Hemlock_Mike just did a review of a 200mw he just received a few days ago!

Perhaps some nitwit in their shipping dept. can't tell the dif. between a module and a pen?

What exactly did they say as to why?

 

[jayrob]

I deleted the e-mail, but it mentioned 'per FDA regulations', over 5mW, and so forth...

I'm thinking it's like you said, somebody that didn't know they are selling DIY parts and modules to the U.S. customers now.

I just ordered another, so we'll see what happens.

 

[seoguy]

Yea, that makes sense.

Still, kinda sucks for you though - making you wait all that time for nothing!

But you may have ended-up lucking-out! The first high-power units that shipped had some serious Q/C problems. I ordered one of the first 100mw units, and while the beam looks nice, the unit itself was kinda f'd up.

(I haven't had a chance to put it in a host, or find someone with an LPM yet, so I'm reserving final judgment until I see what mw's it's actually doing!)

The later units seem to have faired better, so unlike some of the other "first adopters" that got DOA/messed-up modules, you may have actually dodged a bullet here!

 

[roddenberry]

Okay, as promised, here's an update on the DX modules.

Firstly, unpon disassembling one of the modules, I found something rather unsettling... large quantities of brass dust and shards. I took all thre parts of the module and tapped them lightly on a piece of paper on my table and there was a lot lof dirt in there... as if they mill these and don't bother to clean them up after. With a cotton swab, i went all around the inner threads and the surfaces close to the lens and there was a lot of dark dust (probably fine brass dust). That might be a problem if this crap migrates onto the optics.

Another thing that's not too good is the fact that when I shake the two front modules (the one with the collimating lens and the one with the focus lens)... they rattle!!! Talk aboute precise optics!!!
:wtf:
Any of you experience this rattling of the optics? Why the hell are they loose? Is this happening in the Rayfoss modules, or other brands?

So here are a few close image, as good as my macro function with manual focus will permit me:

The three modules, separated.

Side view of the crystal. Sorry but the view to the inside of the diode's window is completely obstructed by the crystal and the glue that holds it to the brass slug.

Front view of the crystal

Another closer view of the lenght of the crystal which seems very close to the diode's window (not that I see it per se).

And finally, here's a good view of how the diode is attached to the driver board. The diode is a 5.6mm diode since i've seen the notch at the bottom of the cavity, which is exactly 5.6mm too. You'll notice that all three pins of the diode are used and soldered to the board, which makes for a somewhat stable connection between the two. Still, it would be easy to bend, twist off or break the pins when installing this module in a host (especially if it's tight).

Hope these pics help a bit. My bit of advice would be for high-power modules, to disassemble and do your own QA inspection and a bit of cleanup before firing it for the first time. Still, the 30 mW unit is amazingly bright and so are the 20 mW...

Robert

 

[roddenberry]

Addendum... the 20 and 30 mW are in all points similar, and the 30 mW looks brighter, but not by that much. The third pin of the diode (photodiode) is soldered to a pad that's not connected to anything. Good idea though because that makes for a more solid connection to the board. Three pins are better than two!

The soldering quality is not bad, but i've seen better. I wonder if it would optimize performance if i'd blow a bit of compressed air in the module cavities to dislodge dirt particles, maybe a cotton swab with a bit of coated lens cleaner on the optics? Any opinions on that?

Robert

 

[seoguy]

@ReNNo:

Originally Posted by seoguy

Has anyone here ordered the 50mw module yet?

I did..
I'll post more information about module including current through LD.

If that's holding you up, just the current to the driver would be good to start!

What size diode is it? If you look at the brass module from the back (driver side), does it look like a solid, thick piece of brass, with the diode pressed down into a hole in the middle?

Or does it have a brass lens-nut looking thingy in the back that is holding the diode in?

Is the push-button on the switch red or black?

If you unscrew the bottom piece from the brass module, and look at the crystals under magnification, what do they look like? Is the end of the crystal tiny (~1mm) and square? If you look at the crystal holder, and compare it to the pic below, would you say it looks like the left one, the right one, or something else?

If you unscrew the top (lens) piece, and look down inside towards the output lens, inside the front of the narrower portion, you should see a metal tubular insert behind the lens that is holding it in place. Is the inside of that piece bare metal, or black colored?

Thanks! :thanks:


@roddenberry:

Cool pics, thanks! :gj:

I finally managed to get my True 5 open - this appears to be the same module they are using on that one as well!

Unlike the higher-power module, this appears to be using a 5.6mm diode, that is simply "pressed" into the hole. The different "thick" base style used in these also precludes replacing the diode with a 9mm one. :cryyy:

They also appear to be using a different crystal set in the low-power ones as well (Damn - I was hoping they were using the same crystals! :cryyy This is also the exact same crystal style as on my True 5.

(Although ONE of the True 5's that another member received (out of 3) appeared to have the same crystal set as my 100mw! )

The low-power ones, the crystal holder is thicker, and has a larger "gap" between the top of the crystal and the top of the exterior portion of the holder, than the one used in the higher-power models.

Do all of your modules have the same identical crystal holder?

Firstly, unpon disassembling one of the modules, I found something rather unsettling... large quantities of brass dust and shards. I took all thre parts of the module and tapped them lightly on a piece of paper on my table and there was a lot lof dirt in there...

:huh: That is concerning!

I wonder if it would optimize performance if i'd blow a bit of compressed air in the module cavities to dislodge dirt particles, maybe a cotton swab with a bit of coated lens cleaner on the optics? Any opinions on that?

If that is an open-can diode, I would definitely avoid shooting compressed air into the bottom portion of the module! I would also avoid touching the end of the crystal with anything - those have very delicate end finishes on them! The lens on the other two pieces of the module (other than the base) you might be able to get away with, but I would also be careful about getting liquid inside of the sealed expander lens assembly.

Another thing that's not too good is the fact that when I shake the two front modules (the one with the collimating lens and the one with the focus lens)... they rattle!!! Talk aboute precise optics!!!
:wtf:
Any of you experience this rattling of the optics?

I just tried that with my True 5 module, and it does the same thing!!! (I'm hesitant to try it on my 100mw, as it seems to be working OK with good beam specs, and I don't want to mess it up!)

That might explain one of the reasons why the beams are coming-out at a angle on some of these guys! Good find!

Why the hell are they loose? Is this happening in the Rayfoss modules, or other brands?

I'm guessing that this is a part of the same poor-quality assembly issues we have been talking about here earlier. If the components were assembled properly, they shouldn't "rattle"!

Not sure if this is same with Rayfoss or not, but is likely the same for any other brand using this same module - I doubt that DX is their only customer!

Still, it would be easy to bend, twist off or break the pins when installing this module in a host (especially if it's tight).

On my True 5, the module already had the diode pins badly twisted from their assembly! I gingerly twisted it back as best as I was able / dared to do.

You'll notice that all three pins of the diode are used and soldered to the board, which makes for a somewhat stable connection between the two.

The problem I noticed on my True 5 was that the diode pins were acting like little springs, when you pressed the button, it was bending the unglued board back! So everytime you clicked the laser, you are putting stress directly on the diode pins!!! :wtf:

Even worse, the part that stops this motion as it pressed against the inside of the bare metal case (that big resistor), is electically "hot", i.e. - is attached to the opposite end of the batteries than the case is! The resistor lead is a hairs-breath away from shorting-out against the inside of the case! Nice design there, fellas!

Are those pics above of the 30mw one?

If you peek down into the hole past the glue with good light and a magnifying glass, can you tell if the diode is open-case or not? From what you can see, do the diodes on the 20's also look identical to the 30?

Is the push-button on these red or black? I have a theory that DX may be color-coding these to make it easy to tell the two module types apart (high and low-power).

What is the current measurement on the two 20mw modules @3V?

I strongly suspect that the main difference between the 20mw and 30mw units may just be the pot settings!

Thanks, roddenberry! :thanks:

 

[seoguy]

To anyone that has already "killed" one of these things...

I am working-up a schematic for the driver. Unfortunately, some of the traces go under two components, making it impossible to trace them without destroying the device!

If anyone has a module which they already "killed", could you help us all out by doing any of the following -

• Remove the IC (IC1) from the board, and get a pic of the circuit traces under it. (This should be very easy to do - just stick something under it to pry, and touch a soldering iron to the pins on one side of it and pry that side loose. Then either bend it out of the way, or grab it with a pliers, hit with other side with a soldering iron, and just pull it off the board)
  
  
• Unsolder the pot, and get a pic of the circuit traces under it.
  
  
• With the pot removed from the board, measure the resistance across it (between the two pins on one side).

Once we have that, we will know how to be able to mod this board! :yh:

Thanks! :thanks:

 

[ReNNo]

Shipping delayed a bit.
I received 50mW module and here are pictures.














It's 5.6mm diode inside.
Current through diode is 277mA and forward voltage is 1,78V.
Tested it with 2xaaa (3V).
I also tried 2xaaa NI-MH Rechargeable batteries (2.5V) and current was almost the same.

I'm not really satisfied with this module.
It needs some time to warm up.
Module starts with very good brightness first second, but after brightness goes down.
And after about 1 minute of warming up, it looks a bit better.
It can't burn black tape (50mW DX True can).
There is one problem.
Beam goes out from the edge of the crystal.
Should I try to move crystal?

 

[roddenberry]

Are those pics above of the 30mw one?

If you peek down into the hole past the glue with good light and a magnifying glass, can you tell if the diode is open-case or not? From what you can see, do the diodes on the 20's also look identical to the 30?

Is the push-button on these red or black? I have a theory that DX may be color-coding these to make it easy to tell the two module types apart (high and low-power).

What is the current measurement on the two 20mw modules @3V?

I strongly suspect that the main difference between the 20mw and 30mw units may just be the pot settings!

Thanks, roddenberry!

Thank you sir. Okay, I checked with a big magnifying glass and you are right, these diodes are indeed 5.6mm open can, and the gob of white goo bonding the crystal to the brass slug is extremely close to the die... 20 mW and 30 mW are precisely identical in every way...

One funny thing I noticed is that on all three modules, the angle of the pot wiper is precisely the same (even at very close magnification). Andv when fired-up, all three have almost the same brightness, although one of the 20 mW has a slightly larger dot (i'll need to tweak the front lens a tiny bit maybe).

All three modules have the same black pushbutton.

I'll have a quiet day tomorrow, so i'll be able to sit down and test all three modules to see how many mA do they consume at 3v, using a CR2.

Robert

 

[MarioMaster]

You sure yours is 5.6mm? When I removed the retaining screw it showed that these were in fact 9mm diodes. The ring covers up a lot of the diode (it doesn't let the diode fall out either, when I removed the retaining ring the diode still would not come out)

 

[roddenberry]

You sure yours is 5.6mm? When I removed the retaining screw it showed that these were in fact 9mm diodes. The ring covers up a lot of the diode (it doesn't let the diode fall out either, when I removed the retaining ring the diode still would not come out)

Yup. Definitely 5.6 mm for the 30 mW and 20 mW DX modules. Double-checked all three modules. all three are the same exact open-can IR diode. Retaining screw? What brand of module do you have and what's its power?

If you refer to the first pic of my photo album, the first part of the module (with the diode and crystal) is one solid piece of brass with the diode directly pressed in, and the crystal is glued to a 3/4 brass slug, glued directly on top with clear epoxy. At the back of the module, you can easily see the three notches of the back of the diode (can't see them in the last pic but trust me, i've seen them) and the cavity is precisely 5.6mm. The front hole though is closer to 3 mm, barely enough space to distinguish the familiar outlines of an open can. Looks quite like the red diodes found in GGWH20 sleds.

But i would not be surprised that the higher power modules have a 9 mm high power diode in them... (1W - 2W?) i am particularly intrigued by Seoguy's picture of two modules side to side, there seems to be a distinct difference between these two modules (the brass slug and the actual size of the crystal).

Robert

Robert

 

[fotonphorces]

I bought one of these 200mw green laser modules from DX the second I saw it, just because of the fear of DX not allowing these to be shipped to the US anymore (came in 8/21). Anyways, I hooked it up to an LM317 voltage regulator @ 3V (came in today).

I hooked the module and regulator up to a heat sink and saw an amazingly bright dot . The thing lit a match in no time.
After about 30 seconds of run time, I touched the big resistor on the driver and it was HOT!!

I read some topics on laserpointerfourms about this and it seems to be caused by too much voltage. I checked the voltage before, after, and during. The module was only getting 2.994V.

I turned off the laser and inspected everything. Nothing looked obviously wrong so I turned it on again. It was much dimmer, and it could not even make a match smoke. The resistor still got hot. :thinking:

My question is what to do now? Did I permanently damage something? :anyone:

 

[roddenberry]

@ fotonphorces:

Well. that is disturbing indeed. All the information available on the DX websites (and very little of it is available) state that these modules can be run at 3 volts, So you did everything right. I think these are very good little modules right up to 100 mW. Above that, I don't believe that the technology used to build these is really made to make them output anything above 150 mW without seriously jeopardizing their lifespan.

The 200 mW module is $46.81... I wonder what a 200 mW module from a top grade CNI green laser would look like. I bet the construction quality, and the specs of the driode, driver and crystal assemblies are far superior. The old adage still stands. You get what you pay for.

I will probably buy more DX modules in the future, but I doubt i'll risk my hard earned money on high power modules after all the negative reviews i've seen on them, and my own experience with the lack of craftsmanship on the lower power units.

I doubt i'll ever own anything more powerful than 150 mW (in any color) because I don't really need that much torque... but I do enjoy tinkering with these things and they're fun weekend hobbies for me!

- Robert

 

[john_lawson]

I have been getting the true 5's for 10.50 -same module in a pen
and turning them up i usually get 75 to 100 mw no problem
i have killed about 4 of them so far and a few won't go past 20 mw
but for the price the 5's are worth getting then modding

 

[RA_pierce]

I bought one of these 200mw green laser modules from DX the second I saw it, just because of the fear of DX not allowing these to be shipped to the US anymore (came in 8/21). Anyways, I hooked it up to an LM317 voltage regulator @ 3V (came in today).

I hooked the module and regulator up to a heat sink and saw an amazingly bright dot . The thing lit a match in no time.
After about 30 seconds of run time, I touched the big resistor on the driver and it was HOT!!

I read some topics on laserpointerfourms about this and it seems to be caused by too much voltage. I checked the voltage before, after, and during. The module was only getting 2.994V.

I turned off the laser and inspected everything. Nothing looked obviously wrong so I turned it on again. It was much dimmer, and it could not even make a match smoke. The resistor still got hot. :thinking:

My question is what to do now? Did I permanently damage something? :anyone:

It may have been damaged if you used the module for a long time with no heatsink. It is also possible that when you turned it back on, the module was still hot, which may have caused a mode switch.
Try operating it with a decent heatsink and see if it helps at all.

Also, did you replace the original driver with the lm317 or did you hook it up with the stock driver still attached?

 

[fotonphorces]

You get what you pay for.

Agreed. I think that says it all when it comes to DX.

I have been getting the true 5's for 10.50 -same module in a pen
and turning them up i usually get 75 to 100 mw no problem
i have killed about 4 of them so far and a few won't go past 20 mw
but for the price the 5's are worth getting then modding

I will consider that before purchasing any more.

It may have been damaged if you used the module for a long time with no heatsink. It is also possible that when you turned it back on, the module was still hot, which may have caused a mode switch.
Try operating it with a decent heatsink and see if it helps at all.

Also, did you replace the original driver with the lm317 or did you hook it up with the stock driver still attached?

Nope. I did not power it on without a good heatsink. I thought the same as you so I waited for everything to be cool and got the same result (even today). I don't think the heatsink is the issue. I did have it on for only 30 seconds so it could not have gotten that hot. Plus my heatsink is almost overkill for this module.

I hooked the LM317 with the stock driver still attached.


Thanks for the replies. I think something went bad in the driver so I may still be able to use this diode with a new driver (I hope).