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FrozenGate by Avery

New diode!!! Nubm47-a1

I asked Angelos about making them adjustable and he said it would need a module to achieve that.
This is what X-Wossee said about these drivers.

When CW jumper is closed, 5V is applied directly to the modulation input from internal reference source. You can use an external modulation source, or use reference source with external pot.
 





This is a chilled run I did just for fun. At the end I used a A140 with a three element lens just to show my meters accurate. I can't wait to see what these NUBM08E are capable of.

https://youtu.be/cm4ijXhpThs
 
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The meter reading going up and down acts like input modulation or a driver that's not stable, were you adjusting the drivers output during the test?

What are you calling an 08e, do you have some 08e's?

That 10 diode block has nubm44's.

It would help if you could show the voltage and current going into the diode, best if you use an adjustable power supply with readouts and show us the numbers so we can compare to known results.

I am excited to see new diodes and how the efficiency is evolving, waste heat is a problem even for us, my triple 7875 gets hot as heck in a 3 minute run even though it's in a big 3 inch by 2 inch sink attached to another sink.

But we need to see more than just meter numbers jumping around, input voltage and current are the rest of the equation, as is the lens you are using, I suggest a DTR G2 as a standard as it grabs all the diodes output and is efficient.
 
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I'll set up the meters and record it. The reason it was jumping up and down was because it came out of the freezer. I think what was going on was the batteries weren't putting out as much current because the we're frozen and as the run went on they started to warm up and put out more current but the diode was also warming up and dropping in efficiency. So it was yo-yoing back and forth. Also I was holding in my hand pointing it at the sensor. I did about a two minute run before that one and it started out at about four watts and worked it's way slowly up to past 8 watts. Anyway I was just doing that for fun and to see what the highest number I cold get. That run was using a Black Buck 6 driver but the drivers with the external pot are super solid also.
 
Ok I just got your message, I would love to see what the 08e will do and what the divergence is, I hope there is a windowed can version as well.

I still want to use some intact blocks too, the 06 is focused pretty good with it's Gball, the 07e not so much.
I am interested to see what the 08e output looks like.
 
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I'll set up the meters and record it. The reason it was jumping up and down was because it came out of the freezer..

I just watched it looks like the beam was moving around a bit. One thing to make sure is that you have the beam dead center on the sensor not touching the edges where the body meets the sensor. if you hit the corner you can get some readings that are high and it looks like the jumping around in the video was when it was being moved.:beer:
 
Just read this thread today, it had me excited in the beginning!
I did find out a lot of you guys are RCnuts like I am. I guess lasers and RC go hand in hand.:yh:
 
This is the adjustable driver. They work really well.

That seems like a very interesting driver. Can you set the max current with the small pot and then vary the actual current with the external one, up to that max?

Are you selling those? If not, where did you get one?
 
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Just read this thread today, it had me excited in the beginning!
I did find out a lot of you guys are RCnuts like I am. I guess lasers and RC go hand in hand.:yh:

Yes but you know to resist the temptation to put a laser on a RC because if it goes rogue it could lase people at a school playground or a bus stop and that would be horrible, so enjoy both, but I'm sure you know we have to keep them separate.
 
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Of course! Don't need anymore restrictions for our hobbies. Look at that retarded kid that put a gun on his "drone", that pissed me off! A laser would have the same effect. It may cause even more of an uproar given that lasers and "drones" are such a scary subject for the uninformed masses.

For a few months, it was actually illegal to fly any RC aircraft where I live. The FAA put a 30-mile circle around Wash DC. They eventually came to their senses! I've been flying for 20+ years. Everything from 40% 3d planes to DIY quads with a flight controller made from Nintendo Wii parts and a Arduino.
 
They are good drivers I don't have that many but I will be getting more. The external pot adjusts between off and full power. These one were prototypes that's why they're on green board. And now since no new xdrive have been made fore 2 months alternative source will be important if you still want build lasers.
Oh and putting a laser on a drone had already been done. But its next to impossible to burn anything because it's not stable enough. It's pointless anyway to mount a laser on a drone. The rise of the machines is inevitable so why speed that up.
 
Lol, when that happens, I want an emitter the size of a Snickers bar mounted on a HH capable of vaporizing a 1/2 hole through solid titanium. (I can dream can't i?)
 
I want a block of NUBM08e, I have 120 dollars worth of new cells ready to go, I'm thinking series parallel 4 strings of 3, they will get a bit of a workout but if needed I will go to 6 strings of 3.

Now as soon as someone will kindly find a supply of 08e blocks at a decent price.

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They are good drivers I don't have that many but I will be getting more. The external pot adjusts between off and full power. These one were prototypes that's why they're on green board. And now since no new xdrive have been made fore 2 months alternative source will be important if you still want build lasers.
Oh and putting a laser on a drone had already been done. But its next to impossible to burn anything because it's not stable enough. It's pointless anyway to mount a laser on a drone. The rise of the machines is inevitable so why speed that up.

Are you selling them?
 





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