Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

New diode!!! Nubm47-a1

This is another run I did. Super chilled hit 10.39 watts. I don't know what the exact current was. I was holding it and it makes the reading jump when the spot moves on the sensor.
Has anyone else managed to get a reading that high or higher by chilling the diode?

https://youtu.be/HEIyO3W6Tlo
 
Last edited:





Isn't this just a NUBM44 by another name, is there any real difference?

You can chill a nubm44 and get the same temporary 30% higher output for a moment.
 
Super chilled is what temp.?

Red, have you tried to chill NUBM44? If I want to mesure diode temp., where do I have to put sensor - drill a hole in the heatsink or Cu module? Or are there distance laser termometers small enough to fit?
 
If theyre not the same exact diode then they're very close. It. That's why I was wondering what other people have achieved with the 44.
I didn't super cool the diode. Super cooled would require something like liquid nitrogen. I only did it freezer temp. Diodes have an allowable low temp on the spec sheet, so super cooling might kill a diode even though I know people have done it before.

And Light Superglue I would try to get the probe as close to the diode as possible since that's what your trying to measure.
 
I would be afraid to crack the window.

I know DTR did a comparative test and he said the 47 and 44 are the same.

I would like to see the emitters under a microscope, but all mine are installed with cylindrical pairs, the 44 is just too divergent without correction or an expander.

I really want to combine 2 corrected 44's then use a beam expander, I have a 10x ordered and if the corrected beam will fit the optics at 10x then I will order more, 6-12 watts deserves to be concentrated into a useful size spot.

I hope we find some 10watt plus diodes with no worse or slightly better divergence.

Actually something a want to try is an expander right after the Gball of the 06, I must use these diodes with the Gball intact as I expect the next round of stronger diodes to be Gballs and I just have better luck with them intact.

p.s. I overheated my super strong 06 and killed it, it was doing very well with its tighter divergence, but again, I think I will work with the Gballs on, I have corrected one that way and it works.
 
Last edited:
That sucks that your 06 died. I am going to do a side by side with a few 44's and 47's. I might decan a 47 and look to see if there's is a difference. I kind of feel like all the high power diodes are actually all the same like the NUBM44, 47 and 06 maybe even the 05. If that was actually the case it would be good to know.
Im wondering if a decanned 44 or 47 would produce slightly more than a canned one and if it would affect divergence.
 
NO the 06 has different divergence than the 44, they are not the same, plus I overheated the 06, I had a zoom lens wrapped in cardstock as a temporary lens holder but it blocks some air flow.

It was burning good and I lost track of the time, it can only run 1.5 - 2 minutes with the cardstock lens wrap, I really should have used a better heat sink or made my 1.25 dia sink a lot longer for when I had it partly covered, it needs the heavy heat sinking or fins because they make a lot of waste heat heat.

4.5a at 4.8 - 5v in is 22 - 22.5 watts and it puts out 5.5 - 6.0 watts so that's basically 16.5 watts of heat, more than the nubm44 by just a fraction, I should have make my sink better but I wanted 1.25 inch round for my slipover, the next nubm06 I will use an expander or cyl pair and an expander and keep the Gball intact.
 
Last edited:
ABarnett said:
This is another run I did. Super chilled hit 10.39 watts. I don't know what the exact current was. I was holding it and it makes the reading jump when the spot moves on the sensor.
Has anyone else managed to get a reading that high or higher by chilling the diode?

https://youtu.be/HEIyO3W6Tlo
Click to expand...

Check this out. Planters super cooled a 300mW G71 Mitsu diode and got near 2W out of it. You can get amazing power increases with cooling.



You also get a large wavelength shift.


 
Last edited:
I wonder if we see a small increase outside during winter, I know my 10 minute heat sink becomes a 5 minute heat sink depending on 40f or 85f outside temp.
 
Last edited:
RedCowboy said:
I wonder if we see a small increase outside during winter, I know my 10 minute heat sink becomes a 5 minute heat sink depending on 40f or 85f outside temp.
Click to expand...

FWIW, a few years ago I noticed an increase in burning power when I left my laser outside on a very cold winter day ~0*F. One of those "polar vortex" days. This is with the 9mm NDB7875 3W 445nm diode driven at 2.4A.

I tried this on purpose after hearing about cold diodes and power increases. I used a warm lipo to power it, as you know cold lithiums don't perform that well. The battery was a 60C, 2s, 3200mAh lipo rigged to work with my host. I used the large lipo just to keep voltage sag to a minimum. I don't have a power meter so I couldn't verify it but I don't think it was a placebo effect either because performance became worse as the diode/heatsink warmed.
 
Last edited:
You likely wouldn't notice it without a LPM, but the duty cycle it noticeable.
 
I saw the one where they were trying for a longer wavelength. It is pretty amazing what just 10 or 20 degrees makes in output power. Semiconductors like the cold.
When I attempt to go for high numbers I put the laser in the freezer till its fully cold after Ive removed the batteries and I also cover the lens with a piece of painters tape.
Then once it's ready i take it out and put the batteries back in. I only remove the tape a second before I start my run. The driver needs to be adjusted slightly if you want to hit absolute maximum. You also need to have an LPM capable of handling 9+ watts. You can try to eye ball it but but it's hard to see and you could go past the foldback point and lose a lot of power and beat your diode.
 
You could get close. But it's a really fine adjustment to find the peak point.

This is the laser I built for Grant Imahara. 3x NUBM06 diodes. He built an Ironman gauntlet and it was featured on a show he does.

Watch it here

https://youtu.be/_bN4b0cM9Bk
 

Attachments

  • 1462791928973.jpg
    1462791928973.jpg
    215.3 KB · Views: 110
Last edited:
Yeah he was, now he's doing some kind of show promoting STEM programs I think. It's being backed by Mouser electronics .
The laser I made was 3x NUBM06 diodes driven by 1-6 amp Black Buck 6 drivers. But he had to only use 1 because they didn't all fit. It was really cool with all three.
 
ABarnett said:
Yeah he was, now he's doing some kind of show promoting STEM programs I think. It's being backed by Mouser electronics .
The laser I made was 3x NUBM06 diodes driven by 1-6 amp Black Buck 6 drivers. But he had to only use 1 because they didn't all fit. It was really cool with all three.
Click to expand...

Ah i know a bout the S.T.E.M thing, i was part of it...

it was about encouraging high school to implement

Science.

Technology.

Engineering.

Math.

to be all included as a combo specialist course to a few selected high school student who score high in those area.

they also have robotic,chemistry, programing,...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top