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FrozenGate by Avery

New 9mm 445 diodes

lazeerer said:
I will be setting this up on a TEC soon and see what i get. I also have another thought in my mind about getting a little more power out of these diodes but i have not tried it yet. Ill keep you guys posted.
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Very nice. Chill that sucker and see what kind of peak you can get.:beer:
 





Just a quick note because I have to run out. I have been noticing now my saik has been sitting arround the 2.7-2.8W and I am going to suggest that heat has something to do with that for about the last 2 weeks we have had the furnace on and my room temp is about 4deg warmer than normal. I am going to take some temp readings of the diode before I fire it up. Unfortunately I fried my DMM last night trying to hook it up to a LiIon battery pack so I will have to wait to get a new one b4 I can do any more power tests. Allready on order so I should be back in business soon. I also have to say that out of the 4 - 9mm diodes I have I have never see anywhere near 3W at 2.2A.
 
gillza said:
Um.. now that's crazy talk. 100% HCl is a gas and it does not exist in such concentrations anyway.

I'm going to purchase a diode this week (paycheck yay) and all I plan on doing is soften the glue in acetone (so when I brake the holder id does not adhere to the lens too much) and brake off the holder as others described. Then just wipe the lens gently with microfiber cloth and that's it. No nails, nothing sharp to scrape it off.. don't want any scratches.
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I guess technically the HCL I was talking about is something like 90%+ because it is liquid.

I used my fingernails to scrape it off. The glue easily chips off just doing that. I still think anything above extreme simplicity is just unnecessary. The glue is pathetic and seriously comes off easy.

There is a good acronym that goes along with this lol:
K.I.S.S - Keep It Simple Stupid

I am really hoping my 9mm running at 2.2A gets at least 2.8W...
 
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lol, there is no such thing as >37% HCl(aq), under normal conditions. You would get fuming HCl if you use concentration over 38% HCl(aq) but it is very unstable and practically unusable.

% - kg(HCl)/kg(HCl(aq))
 
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Interesting. I wonder if I was mistaken with 100% concentration being rather maximum concentration. I'll have to ask the person who has it.
 
Cel said:
lol, there is no such thing as >37% HCl(aq), under normal conditions. You would get fuming HCl if you use concentration over 38% HCl(aq) but it is very unstable and practically unusable.

% - kg(HCl)/kg(HCl(aq))
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Your formula is not correct. its kgHCl/kgH2O * 100% or so called w/w%
 
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gillza said:
Your formula is not
correct. its kgHCl/kgH2O * 100% or so called w/w%
Click to expand...

w(x)=x/(x+y)

w(part)=x(part I)/(x+y)(part I + part II)


Is it kgHCl/kgH2O or kgHCl/kgHCl(aq)?

EDIT: you are right, it is w/w%
 
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Ya no one needs a case pin on this.. Unless tehy have a case positive host that is isolated.. I dont even know about that...
 
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Nice LINK! what ma are ya running that on? I was thinking 2.5-2.6A and you got a great diode.. I think the 2.9W saik is done but I havent tested it yet.. just know it doesnt work in the host so far... Oh well I got a lens out of it... I still have 2x short barrel lenses for these and want to put them in with new diodes and a PBS cube..
 
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I recently had a 9mm and it was putting out amazing power at 2.2A but it LED'd relatively quickly. Now the more I'm reading about these diodes compared to the M140 there doesn't seem to be a big advantage other than the ESD protection.

My understanding is the 9mm 445's are typically more efficient W/A wise but how much more efficient?

Nvm I found what I was looking for.
 
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Never had a 9mm that led'd at 2.2A mine running at 2.9W 2.8A is still going strong probably my most used laser. Great for lighting smokes when you cant find a match.. Every time I think the saik is done it ends up being a battery problem. There seems to be a battery lead that is bad I think I finally fixed it once and for all.
 
I guess the best thing is to test the heatsink+diode assembly using bench PSU to see at what current it starts to dim and go from there before putting it into the host.
 
Mine started dimming at 3.1A but I don't think I want to keep it running quite so hard. I decided on 2.2A for stability.
 
Dimming is gradual and not permanent. You notice dimming when you very slowly increase current and can visibly see the output drop in a gradual manner and the output climbs back up when current is decreased. LED'ing leaves the diode permanently damaged and irreparable. The easiest way to see dimming is when you hook a diode up to a bench PSU.
 
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