Need some help to put together a laser scanner

[carmangary]

I have some shows made by and for Pangolin hardware that were converted to ILDA files and they look fine on my Easylase, RIYA, Moncha, etc. The Pangolin software is probably better and you get some extra tools to make things easier but when it comes to show time no one is really going to be able to tell if the show is running on a Pangolin or an EasyLase DAC as long as the host computer isn't hiccuping. Hiccups are becoming less and less of an issue as computers have more cores and power. The old Pangolin hardware was created with the problem of computers being too weak to do a good job controlling the show so they pushed the show into the DAC hardware. Times are changing.

 

[ElektroFreak]

The old Pangolin hardware was created with the problem of computers being too weak to do a good job controlling the show so they pushed the show into the DAC hardware. Times are changing.

Yes they are.. in very exciting and cost-cutting ways. I'm very excited about what the future will bring.

 

[Xer0]

Just a question: If you dont need ILDA compatibility, could you just set your analog drivers to be on 100% when the soundcard is on max, so thne you only need two correction amp circuits for the scanners?

 

[MarioMaster]

Just a question: If you dont need ILDA compatibility, could you just set your analog drivers to be on 100% when the soundcard is on max, so thne you only need two correction amp circuits for the scanners?

If you don't need ILDA, then you don't need a correction board at all. The little DMX board handles all the signals for that, although the show quality it does is quite poor.

 

[Xer0]

If you don't need ILDA, then you don't need a correction board at all. The little DMX board handles all the signals for that, although the show quality it does is quite poor.

But so i dont get full scan angle or what? Or does the DMX Board amplifing too?

Besides... i plan to order from Spacelas or Laserpic, so there is no DMX Board at all.....

 

[MarioMaster]

The DMX board supplies its own patterns. The voltage correction board is only for use with a sound card to change the voltages from the sound card to proper ILDA levels. A DMX board already outputs the proper signals.

Without a DMX board or a DAC, you get nothing.

 

[Xer0]

Yeah... but i want to use a DAC. The Soundcard one, like i said in my post

 

[carmangary]

Just a question: If you dont need ILDA compatibility, could you just set your analog drivers to be on 100% when the soundcard is on max, so thne you only need two correction amp circuits for the scanners?

Maybe. The sound card output is something like 0 to 2.5v so if you boost your laser driver gain it might work OK. The question is whether or not the sound card will supply enough current to driver the modulation circuit. I bet it will. Give it a shot.

 

[Things]

ILDA is a standard that applies to both lasers and galvo's, + any shutters, lumia wheels or anything else in your projectors that are controlled externally, not just the galvo's.

Think of it like this.

The DMX board is sort of like a on-shelf demo, you can hook it up and shoot some patterns instantly, but it's limited because it's only designed to do that.

If you buy it and take it home (Buy/build a DAC), you can now access the USB port, and program it to do whatever you like.

The DMX board is VERY cheap, and really no one should be using it in a scanner if they wan't it to be professional. If you want DMX control, buy a FB3, if you just want to hook it up to your computer and have it draw whatever you like, you can also buy a FB3 or any other DAC (Like the RIYA), or build the sound card DAC.

If your impressed by the output you get from the DMX board, a DAC will blow you away

 

[ElektroFreak]

Yeah... but i want to use a DAC. The Soundcard one, like i said in my post

I don't understand why you wouldn't just build the whole DAC like in the tutorial. If you just build the full system, you won't have to worry about blanking voltages since you will tune the system to the standard 5V.

 

[Xer0]

Maybe. The sound card output is something like 0 to 2.5v so if you boost your laser driver gain it might work OK.

But this means that when the Driver for some reason get more than 2,5V modulation signal, it will raise the current over max and blow the diodes off, right?

I don't understand why you wouldn't just build the whole DAC like in the tutorial. If you just build the full system, you won't have to worry about blanking voltages since you will tune the system to the standard 5V.

Space, mostly, and Parts. Indeed i want to put everything in an old Beamer case. So when i have DAC, Amp, Drivers it may not fit. But if i design the drivers to take directly the Cards output and use only one small board with a quad opamp for the Galvos, my plan is more real.

 

[carmangary]

But this means that when the Driver for some reason get more than 2,5V modulation signal, it will raise the current over max and blow the diodes off, right?

Yes. Probably so.

Space, mostly, and Parts. Indeed i want to put everything in an old Beamer case. So when i have DAC, Amp, Drivers it may not fit. But if i design the drivers to take directly the Cards output and use only one small board with a quad opamp for the Galvos, my plan is more real.

Fair enough.