Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Mini Metal Lathes.

Hey Senkat, before you unload an awesome tool (apologies to the sharks), check out some of the tutorials and reviews at Mini-Lathe.com. In particular read the review of the Harbor Freight one that you bought, as well as the Grizzly one (about how he went about getting it ready for use).
 





*The shark bites of the badger legs*
Hey its no problem just dont want to see that thing rust with out it being used.
 
Bionic-Badger said:
Hey Senkat, before you unload an awesome tool (apologies to the sharks), check out some of the tutorials and reviews at Mini-Lathe.com. In particular read the review of the Harbor Freight one that you bought, as well as the Grizzly one (about how he went about getting it ready for use).
Click to expand...


Hey, BB - I simply cannot operate it now, and since my health, etc has gotten worse in the past three years, there is no reason for me to expect that I will be able to get it operational sometime in the future. I was all pumped up when I purchased it, ready to go, then damned near blew my back simply assisting the HF guy loading it into my SUV - it actually sat in the car for over a week before I could get help getting it out :( Pitiful, no ?///Greg
 
SenKat_Stonetek said:
Keep this thread alive ! I am interested to find out how well you make out with it...I bought one a FEW years ago now...it is STILL in the damned box :( My health has not allowed me to be able to get it setup - it is most likely rusted solid by now, but just in case it actually works once I unbox it (any volunteers in South Texas ? :) ) I would love to have a head start, by having YOU figger out all the bugs !///Greg
Click to expand...

Aw what a waste!

but yeah, i highly doubt there is any rust on it.
I think they dip these things in this nasty red grease when they are done with them.

It easily takes >1 hour just to wipe it all off.

The dials take some getting use to. You may have to spin it like 1/8 of a turn before it "catches" and actually starts to move the bit. So moving the dial to show .005", may not of actually moved the bit.

Also the tail stock locks onto the bed using a square metal plate that tightens down by a bolt.
This metal plate is not perfectly square, so if you take the tail stock off and spin the plate around, it may be too long on one side and throw your tail stock off center when you tighten it down. I just scratched one side of it so i know which side has to face in which direction.
I realized this when my drill bit wasn't hitting the metal dead center.

It's a blast to play with. although you REALLY need safety goggles for this thing..it shoots metal everywhere. I also wear rubber gloves lol
 
SenKat_Stonetek said:
Hey, BB - I simply cannot operate it now, and since my health, etc has gotten worse in the past three years, there is no reason for me to expect that I will be able to get it operational sometime in the future. I was all pumped up when I purchased it, ready to go, then damned near blew my back simply assisting the HF guy loading it into my SUV - it actually sat in the car for over a week before I could get help getting it out :( Pitiful, no ?///Greg
Click to expand...

Ugh, not the back! Those are some of the worst injuries that stick with you for so long.
 
Hey Mo,

Just caught this thread so it's a late reply to the first post but using the hacksaw whilst the lathe is turning is not the best idea. I too did this to start with but then realised that if the blade got pinched and broke, then there's nothing to stop the lathe from shooting the broken bits into soft and vulnerable little me! Small bits of brass or ally flying around I can deal with but large bits of hardened steel?

Great to turn out your own stuff though. I can't wait to see what you come up with.

M
:)
 
That's true, but the lathe is spinning at a very low speed. If the RPMs are too high it won't cut for crap. if/when it catches, it takes it about two seconds to feed itself down the length of the blade. thats how slow it's going.

As for any other method, i'm assuming you use a parting bit? I haven't gotten one yet. I tried to fashion my own but that was a disaster. I guess grinding your own bits is an acquired skill...
 
Last edited:
Parting tools are an a**e, IMO! I've tried a few and they simply end up chattering, even after trying to make one myself. I think I'm missing something here because I don't think it should be that hard. I now have one that works well but even with this one it still doesn't beat cutting the piece whilst in the lathe with a hacksaw for speed! (Not turning of course.) It's no where near a neat enough cut but I'm usually facing off the cut end anyway. Parting tool leaves a nice(ish), finish but facing off just makes me happy! I hate being a perfectionist!

Can any of the experienced machinists give a link to tool cutting and tool shape for us? I'm finding my way slowly but any hints and pointers will be much appreciated. I know a steel tool has to have a good positive angle rake; aluminium has less; and brass is surposed to have a negative rake but any elaboration will help. (Particularly on grinding our own parting tool!)

M
:)
 
Last edited:
Yeah the one i tried to make still works i guess. I don't use it cause i get way too much vibration and chatter, and usually just end up stalling the motor.

The hack saw takes forever, but it really the only way i have to cut piece off.
Today i was sanding a coleman heatsink, and i don't remember what happened but i didn't have the chuck tight enough and it went flying. Almost busted out the TV

I face off everything too, then sand it.
 
Parting tools work good, but ive never had any luck on my mini lathe either..

From what I was told, it has to do with the lack of rigidity of the smaller machines. Once you break in your lathe it gets worse... The more slack the more harmonics will work against you.

If you work with copper, this becomes an even bigger issue. Ive used a hack saw as well, it just makes a mess of the work, and takes the extra time to clean it up.
 
It sounds like you guys want a band saw, they make a portable hand ones,
Portable Variable Speed Bandsaw
Use this just turn off the lathe grab your tool cut right threw then finish the face off with the lathe.
or just take it off and use a normal band saw then put it back on your choice.
 
kiyoukan said:
It sounds like you guys want a band saw, they make a portable hand ones,
Portable Variable Speed Bandsaw
Use this just turn off the lathe grab your tool cut right threw then finish the face off with the lathe.
or just take it off and use a normal band saw then put it back on your choice.
Click to expand...


Way ahead of you my good man :evil:

B1108N.jpg




I had to get one of these to save myself some headache. No home machine shop is complete without one ;)
 
Last edited:
Just one thing about the HF lathe. Eventually you will be humming along and all of sudden the lathe will stop turning and you will see the bit stuck in the material you were cutting. Don't panic. Quickly shut the power off and retract the bit away from the material it was cutting. Usually copper or stainless steel, when this happens. While the bit is still backed off, turn the speed pot to zero. Turn the power back on, and turn the speed back up. You will find that it wasn't broken after all and you are ready to go back to work. There is an over-current sense that will shut it down if the bit grabs. Unless you're unlucky. Good luck
 
wannaburn said:
Parting tools work good, but ive never had any luck on my mini lathe either..

From what I was told, it has to do with the lack of rigidity of the smaller machines. Once you break in your lathe it gets worse... The more slack the more harmonics will work against you.

If you work with copper, this becomes an even bigger issue. Ive used a hack saw as well, it just makes a mess of the work, and takes the extra time to clean it up.
Click to expand...

I hope Mo doesn't mind me asking this in his threaad but...

My lathe is a Myford ML7. Probably not what you'd call a mini lathe but I set it up myself after a long time in mothballs, (30 odd years). I had a manual but it didn't give much away about how tight to have the saddle or cross slide. This seems obvious but would tightening these reduce the harmonics and perhaps improve the chatter situation when parting off?

M
:)
 
My rule of thumb has been to keep all tight enough that it doesnt cause your spindles too much resistance, but as tight as possible.

It also depends on how long the stock is and how far away from the chuck you are parting...

Of course material and the tips on your tooling play a role.

And dont forget the lube :whistle:


There is some good info here > Mini Lathe Setup



Morgan said:
I hope Mo doesn't mind me asking this in his threaad but...

My lathe is a Myford ML7. Probably not what you'd call a mini lathe but I set it up myself after a long time in mothballs, (30 odd years). I had a manual but it didn't give much away about how tight to have the saddle or cross slide. This seems obvious but would tightening these reduce the harmonics and perhaps improve the chatter situation when parting off?

M
:)
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top