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Micro Boost and LOC 815 diode

Mohrenberg said:
Hey, I thought everyone was saying this couldn't be done?

I have not gotten to use a micro boost yet.
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It can certainly be done. But you need to insulate the heatsink from the host which can be pain with most hosts.
 





Mohrenberg said:
eeewwwww. That would be a pain
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That is why the good Dr. said "It is a very nonstandard setup but should work"

I guess they will be wrapping their heatsinks in electrical tape or run a new negative line that is not in contact with the host. Sounds like a pain in the ass to me.;)
 
DTR said:
That is why the good Dr. said "It is a very nonstandard setup but should work"

I guess they will be wrapping their heatsinks in electrical tape or run a new negative line that is not in contact with the host. Sounds like a pain in the ass to me.;)
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Or use thermal epoxy to fix the module in the heatsink with some extra space. The bottom line is it can be done and someone may find the information useful.
 
gillza said:
Or use thermal epoxy to fix the module in the heatsink with some extra space. The bottom line is it can be done and someone may find the information useful.
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Certainly wasn't saying it was not good info but that it would be hard to implement with most of the hosts that we are using.:beer:
 
DTR said:
Certainly wasn't saying it was not good info but that it would be hard to implement with most of the hosts that we are using.:beer:
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Yep :) it would be a pain :) that is why I think I'll use that tortured microboost drive for my planned 12x Blu-ray build and wait for October to get few flexdrives for future Reds hehe
 
^ You could also isolate the battery contacts from the host. This is sometimes easier if you can fit a wire beside the battery in the barrel and also keeps your heatsinking continuity. Just another option.

M
:)
 
You can drill out the ID of the heat-sink 1mm or so larger so that the Aixiz module is "floating" inside (not a tight fit) then fill the gap with Arctic Silver/ Arctic Alumina or some other highly heat conductive, electrically insulating epoxy.
Shouldn't be too much of a PITA.

The Arctic epoxies are for permanent fixtures, though, and they may conduct electricity a tiny bit.
As far as thermal epoxies go, it is supposedly the best.
 
RA_pierce said:
You can drill out the ID of the heat-sink 1mm or so larger so that the Aixiz module is "floating" inside (not a tight fit) then fill the gap with Arctic Silver/ Arctic Alumina or some other highly heat conductive, electrically insulating epoxy.
Shouldn't be too much of a PITA.

The Arctic epoxies are for permanent fixtures, though, and they may conduct electricity a tiny bit.
As far as thermal epoxies go, it is supposedly the best.
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Arctic silver definitely does. Arctic Alumina oxide/Ceramic should not conduct.
 
Ths is just my opinion, and I do not need to be spammed by a 100 comment saying I am wrong.
I and my friend have powered red diodes with micro boost may times, and have worked great. A driver is a driver, they all regulate current, you could push in 400 volts DC in if you wanted, but as long as the current is limited to whatever mA is recogmended. Well, IDK about 400, that might mess with the insulation. But, that wasnt my point.
I would still rather flexidrive, but micro boost works.

ANd one quick question, does the flex drive boost current as the voltage gets low like the micro boost, rather letting the diodes power drop as the input drops.

Sorry about any spelling mistakes
 
400V is a lot of energy it will fry your driver in a nanosecond.

Flexdrive is buck/boost it outputs the V below or above the battery's voltage to the Forward voltage of the LD.
 
Question: What about Dr. Lava's FlexModP3 driver used for powering and modulating (TTL/analog) a laser diode. Is that a buck/boost driver as well? Could I use a 12V source to power a single 445 diode? I tested using a dummy load (1 Ohm resistor / 6 test diodes) and the voltage measured at the LD output is right around 5 volts. From the documentation, the FlexModP3 supports up to 24 volts and I don't know of any laser diodes that require that amount of voltage. My dummy load looks good with 12 volts but I don't want to risk frying my diode until I know for sure...

LINK - http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/FlexModP3.php

EDIT - Nevermind! I got my (positive) answer here: How hot they run is entirely dependent on how much higher your power supply voltage is from the diode voltage, and the diode current.. if you're powering a single 4V, 800mA diode with a 12V supply, your heatsink has to dissipate 6.4 Watts. However if you used a 5V supply, it only has to dissipate 0.8 Watts.
 
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Okay, then I will get the flexi for my red laser, I just know that micro boost does work for red. But, since flexi is available, I will use that since it is recommended. And That is good, thats why I wanted either flexi or boost because with nearly all drivers, when the voltage drops, the current to the diode drops below what you have it set to. But, the flexi and micro boost rise the current to what you need as voltage drops

Thanks
 
Juniortore1 said:
Okay, then I will get the flexi for my red laser, I just know that micro boost does work for red. But, since flexi is available, I will use that since it is recommended. And That is good, thats why I wanted either flexi or boost because with nearly all drivers, when the voltage drops, the current to the diode drops below what you have it set to. But, the flexi and micro boost rise the current to what you need as voltage drops

Thanks
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Flexdrives are still showing as out of stock on Dr.Lava's site... Hmm did I miss something, are they being redistributed through a middle man?
 
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